Crinkled Paint

[Lordmodelbuilder]

I have used Rust-Oleum grey automotive spray can primer,#2081 a few times and then sprayed Dupli-color over it with no problems,so

some of their primers are safe.

[StevenGuthmiller]

13 hours ago, martinfan5 said:

Well yeah, thats because its the Hobby's version of Rustoleum

I’ve used Tamiya primer before as well and I don’t get the hype.

It seemed to work ok, but at nearly $10.00 for a 6 oz. can, it needs to work better than just ok in my opinion.

People seem to swoon over the spray nozzles on the Tamiya primer cans as well?

Don’t get that either.

The fan spray nozzles on the Duplicolor cans are far superior.

This is all just my opinion of course. 

 

Steve

[Greg Myers]

Ok, hood primer test ok.

next up some Dupli-color ?

[Jim N]

Unfortunately, there are no foolproof ways to apply paint.  I once used a brand of primer.  The same brand's paint and then the same brand's clear.  All was well until I applied the clear, and then it looked like the first picture that started this thread.  The worst part about it was that it was a race car and the clear was to seal in the decals.  I was able to sand the alligator skin down and re-apply the paint, but it was 3 stressful days.

Edited February 8, 2019 by Jim N

[Greg Myers]

color fine.

just not too shinny. on to a clear or maybe some lemon Pledge 

[ewetwo]

I got everything I was told to. Plus another kit that was $17 at Micheal’s and with a 50% off coupon from AC Moore. It was cheap. Good to practice on. But I’m also showing a Buick body that I sprayed the same duplicate-color on as the Fury.  No primer. And it looks great. Who can figure. 

Edited February 10, 2019 by ewetwo

[Greg Myers]

Lookin good David.  I didn’t have any problems other than the wife opening the patio door to complain about the fumes.

close the door ?

painted mine outside. 72 degrees, sunny, little to no breeze. Heated up the paint in a pot of hot water from the Faucet. Good to go, just not much shine.

so, clear coat. Floor polish..?

 

 

 

[Greg Myers]

What clear to use on Duplicate-color ?

[ewetwo]

1 hour ago, Greg Myers said:

Lookin good David.  I didn’t have any problems other than the wife opening the patio door to complain about the fumes.

close the door ?

painted mine outside. 72 degrees, sunny, little to no breeze. Heated up the paint in a pot of hot water from the Faucet. Good to go, just not much shine.

so, clear coat. Floor polish..?

 

 

 

Hey Greg, I have used Pledge Revive it with good results. The 57 Chevy in Under Glass I just finished. I coated it with Revive It. Now I didn't paint it black. It was molded in that color. But it does make it look darker and a nice shine. I do have 2 models where is has crazed. But you can just wash it off and re-coat it. One of them was a Rustoleum green and the other Model Masters orange. Now other models I coated using the same paints are fine. So I don't know why it happened. Some people coat the car before doing the silver/chrome trim. If they screw up. It washes right off. I'm no expert by any means. I used it because a forum member told me about it. Others might not recommend it. I'm still learning. 

Edited February 8, 2019 by ewetwo

[Lovefordgalaxie]

EEEWWW! 

That's bad. For sure the top coat reacted with the primer. 

Mixing brands is always a risk, as the manufacturers use different materials. 

I had something like that to happen when I was using general purpose spray paints to finish my cars. Usually I didn't test the combination of brands before using on the car's bodies, and that was the mistake. 

Now, if I'm going to use modeling paint in spray form, I only use Tamiya. 

Usually, I use 1:1 car paint tough. 

I know what brand of primer will work and what won't, but I do tests every time I get a new can of primer, just in case they changed the formula, and the automotive paint reacts badly with it. 

[Belugawrx]

1 hour ago, Greg Myers said:

What clear to use on Duplicate-color ?

Duplicolor

[Swamp_thngSFB]

I had this same thing happen but the other way around. Building a 55 nomad and I painted the roof first before priming. It turned out terrible so I got a can of Tamiya primer and tried to go over it. One big spot on the roof did this. Now, after a bunch of sanding I’m trying to fill in that spot with layers of primer... what is the best stuff to use to totally strip the body back to bare plastic so I can start over?

[NOBLNG]

This is your friend.

Edited February 10, 2019 by NOBLNG

[Greg Myers]

I did a lot of painting on 1:1  aircraft when I was in navy and experienced many of these things as well. Often times it was due to temperature and or humidity,

I was using lacquer and epoxy paints  all within mil-specs. 

[ewetwo]

The room the paints are stored in are in a room that is usually 68- 69 degrees. It's where my models, artwork and pottery is all done. Is that too cold? The Buick body I have displayed here is in the same room. No primer and it looks fine. But I'll be experimenting. Should the paint be warmed up? When I do finally get the nerve to try my airbrush. Will that be warm enough? 

[Buffs Fan]

I had this happen using Rustolium clear over the Testors Lime green I did on my Hemi Dart the old painter at the dealership I work at was cleaning out his cabinet and had a new can of the clear as well as 2 cans of the primer and gave em to me. Luckily the primer has been great but that huge can of Clear got 86ed