'65 Fury. Back on the Bench.

[Scott8950]

40 minutes ago, gtx6970 said:

Dude, you are the master

agreed

[Bucky]

The rear seat fix looks spot on to me!! Well done!

[disabled modeler]

Stunning work as usual Steve...shes going to be a beauty.

[MrObsessive]

That looks great to me Steve! Nice work on the conversion!

I've got both the '65 and '66 buitups sitting in boxes on my third floor, but I've done nothing with them. Your build especially with what you're doing with the interior is giving me some ideas and I'll definitely be keeping this thread in mind.

[77-830]

The rear seat gaps are actually prototypically correct for a Sport Fury interior.  On the 1/1 if you remove the rear seat cushion you will find a plastic "box" screwed to the floor and quarter trim panel at each end of the cushion to act as a filler between the cushion and the quarter trim.  The boxes are roughly 3" thick by 5" tall and 12" long.  If you proceed to pull out the seat back, again on each end you will find a heavy cardstock filler panel (like a leg) that runs down from the package shelf to the floor to trim out the gap at the end of the seat back.  Overall it helps give the back seat a bucket effect similar to the Turbine cars. 

The Johan seat cushion has a bit of a "step" in it to go around the convertible top pockets but the hardtop wouldn't have that; it would be a smooth line from the back of the cushion all the way around to the front.  To my eye, rather than filling in the step it would be more appropriate to make the front width of the cushion the same as at the step, as the gap between the end of the cushion and the quarter trim is really pretty prominent.  The filler panels that you made for along the seat back actually do look pretty close to prototypical.

[StevenGuthmiller]

4 hours ago, 77-830 said:

The Johan seat cushion has a bit of a "step" in it to go around the convertible top pockets but the hardtop wouldn't have that; it would be a smooth line from the back of the cushion all the way around to the front.  To my eye, rather than filling in the step it would be more appropriate to make the front width of the cushion the same as at the step, as the gap between the end of the cushion and the quarter trim is really pretty prominent.

 

I assume that you are talking about the area circled in blue.

 

 

 

I actually thought about extending the seat cushion to the door panel in this area, but upon reflection, I decided that it really wasn't worth the effort.

By the time the arm rest is installed, pretty much directly above it, it will not be very noticeable.

At some point you have to learn to pick your battles.

 

 

Steve

 

 

 

[77-830]

Yes, the gap in the circled area is about right for the 1/1; it would get a bit narrower towards the front of the cushion as the bolster flares out a bit.  And, yes, the armrests will definitely hide that.

I loved that you added the four screw holes to the bottom of the door armrests; I've spend more time upside down trying to keep a screw driver in the head of the screw and keeping the screws/armrest/door panel holes all aligned to go back together.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, 77-830 said:

I loved that you added the four screw holes to the bottom of the door armrests; I've spend more time upside down trying to keep a screw driver in the head of the screw and keeping the screws/armrest/door panel holes all aligned to go back together.

Probably a wasted detail that will never be seen, but it took me all of 30 seconds to do, so I thought, why not?

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

I started looking at the badge on the door panel which I had originally thought that I would leave alone and possibly lightly scribe around to make it more prominent.

But as I considered it, I realized that it was really too faint to do much with, so the decision was made to replace it.

I may sand it down a tad to make it a little less prominent.

I also added a chrome strip across the top of the panel, so at this point, it should be basically ready for primer.

Now I really wish that the other side was done!

 

 

Steve

 

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

I believe that the door panel and rear seat modifications are nearly finished.

Adding some thin stock to the sides of the floor to bring the door panels out to the correct position was required due to material removal when cutting apart the tub.

A little more tweaking and I should be able to move on to the dash board and console.

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

[thatz4u]

nice work , keep going...

[dino246gt]

Very nice work on that back seat area, cool!

 

[Bucky]

This is great stuff, here!!

[StevenGuthmiller]

I needed to add a little detail to the console.

I scribed in all of the trim and glove box panel lines, removed a section at the rear of the "skirt" to replicate the 1:1, cut a hole for the shift boot and added some floor "courtesy lights".

I also did a little scribing on the seats to improve definition in a few areas and add a separation line for where the carpet should be on the seat backs.

 

Steve

 

 

Console before.

 

 

 

Console After.

 

 

[Vince66]

Like the way this is turning out. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

Interior is all primed and mocked up.

Everything seems to be in order, so on to more body prep.

 

 

Steve

 

[kelson]

The interior looks 100% better!,fine work on rescribing the centre console.

[StevenGuthmiller]

A usual, I just couldn't leave well enough alone and decided that the firewall was not going to cut it.

The thought of adding the "torsion bar" hood springs entered my mind and I started tinkering with the idea of doing them so that the hood could be displayed opened or closed.

It really doesn't look to be a difficult task, but the heater box from the '64 Dodge was too prominent and would interfere with their function.

The incorrect firewall was starting to bug me anyway, so the modifications have begun.

I thought about simply cutting out a section of the Dodge firewall and transplanting the relevant section of the original Johan piece, but decided that it would be more fun to modify the Dodge one to replicate the Plymouth.

This way I will have room for the hood bars, and I can add all of my own wiring for a little more realism.

 

I started by grinding out the heater box and replacing it with a piece of plastic sheet.

Then I added the upper and lower "ridge" detail.

The "blister" for the master cylinder was also added, but I think that I'll replace it.

It needs to be a little taller.

 

I will cut the washer motor "well" from the Johan firewall and transplant it, as well as add more various bumps and bolts.

 

More later.

 

 

Steve

 

 

[Scott8950]

that console turned out extremely nice. im gonna have to stop looking on here you guys got me wanting everything i see. id like to build one of these

[StevenGuthmiller]

19 minutes ago, Scott8950 said:

that console turned out extremely nice. im gonna have to stop looking on here you guys got me wanting everything i see. id like to build one of these

Thanks Scott!

 

A little more progress on the firewall.

 

Steve

 

 

[Belugawrx]

Really enjoy watching your builds Steve, lot's to learn and soak in for sure.

Any ideas on where you're going colour wise..?

Watching ...Cheers

[Belugawrx]

 

Wheels from the Revell '32 Ford and AMT Parts Pak Goodyear L60-15's

Want 'em?

[StevenGuthmiller]

50 minutes ago, Belugawrx said:

 

Wheels from the Revell '32 Ford and AMT Parts Pak Goodyear L60-15's

Want 'em?

I'll sure take them if you're offering!

I've got the wheels figured out, but I'm still on the fence about tires.

These pad printed tires would surely make my life easier.

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Belugawrx said:

Really enjoy watching your builds Steve, lot's to learn and soak in for sure.

Any ideas on where you're going colour wise..?

Watching ...Cheers

I'm going with "Medium Turquoise" for the body with a black vinyl top.

The interior will be a slightly lighter or darker shade of turquoise.

 

 

Steve

 

 

[swede70]

Beautiful fabrication across assemblies.  Thanks for sharing...

Mike K./Swede70