some old racing engines

[absmiami]

Scary nice

[absmiami]

I knew I shouldn’t have said that ... so I managed to make one before running to the cooler ...

evergreen I beam filed and sanded and sawed. With a .012 drilled bolt hole and a piece of .012 brass rod and a .020 r b motion nut.  Momma Mia  l forgot how miserable these things were ...  I’ll be able to knock out about one a day ...

[mad mike]

Those headers were the thing that made me want to build this engine. Got to love hot vees. Maybe I should start a collection ?

 

[absmiami]

Mad. On your 8th sc blog there are some great photos of the brackets that support the rod that articulates the fuel injection linkage. Could you post a photo of the fuel block sitting in the center of the assembly - and a photo or drawing of its attachment to the middle bracket and or the top of the valve train cover

gracias in advance ...

and if anyone reading this hasn’t yet seen the 1/8 build on the big boys blog - stop what you’re doing and go to the big boys section and you’ll see the posts there ...I’m referring to the posts on the Ford soho indy engine ...

[mad mike]

Nuuu problem... that fuel system is quite complicated, took me some time to understand it.

 

[absmiami]

Thanks 

terrifying ...

 

sigh  ....

scalpel ...

suture please ...

Dog Fish Head ....

[absmiami]

Gotta. Start somewhere...

.020 x .156 evergreen strip ...

[absmiami]

another question for mad ...

the diameter of the linkage cross bar - appears close to 1/2 inch

and the diameter of the steel fuel line - appears slightly more than 1/2 inch nominal outside dia   - 5/8  ???

just made the forward facing fuel distribution block ...

thanks in advance

[Codi]

Mike P. and Randy D.  -  hat's off to both of you for what you're doing.  Just stunning work you're doing and detail.   cheers,   tim

[absmiami]

The fuel distribution blocks straddle the bracket in the center of the valve train cover. Made from evergreen bar and drilled for the fuel lines and adjustment screws . Have to make part that suspends the linkage rod - this will be brass or nickel ... probably paint the fuel blocks a shade of anodized blue - as per the 8th scale prototype - I think that is correct ...

[Straightliner59]

Sweet!

[mad mike]

Sorry for the late answer - I used a 2mm rod for the cross bar and a 2mm Tamiya fuel line.

Here you can find nice big pics for color reference:

richardphotography.smugmug.com/The-Revs-Institute

 

[absmiami]

I forgot about the rev’s display engine!  Revs is about 110 miles west of me across “alligator alley”. Don’t ask ...

of course it is closed now. But I plan to go back there when it reopens - maybe Junewhoknows ...  couple more Q’s ...

the plug wires - yours look perfect - I’m uncertain whether to use.013 or .016 for these. What did you use in 8th scale - I’ll try to do the math. 
I like your paint on the 1/8   The engine block looks like it is a mix of gun metal and something else silver   -  and are

the valve covers flat black with a little something? Maybe some grey or gum metal ?  
the links and the fuel line fittings are driving me nuts. Gonna have to machine some elbow fittings and draw out the links. And no, Randy - the linkage will not be functional .  I am not THAT functional ... and thanks again ... your humble obsessive whatever ...

[Randy D]

Hey,  What do you mean not functional !!! You're taking the easy way out???

Just kidding, you are one of my favorite builders my friend and I know you will knock this out of the park.

Mad Mike is killing us,  he did not include the linkage on his 911 flat six either:)  I'm working on it.....

Randy

[absmiami]

Oh dear  ..   .... .   ......   .

[mad mike]

Seems like there's a new business opportunity for the after-market guys

The ignition wires I used are 1,0mm ones.

For paint I like to use Alclad flat alu over spraycan flat black. To achieve different looking parts I apply a very light layer of different Citadel acrylics, mostly green/gray tones. The dark parts are Citadel Skavenblight Dinge, kinda like slate.

At the end a light black oil paint washing.

[absmiami]

Alrighty then...

detail master sells .013 and .016 orange plug wire ...  the perfect size would be .014. - oh well  -  I’m leaning towards using .013. Inviting your votes ...  

rules. Any forum member is eligible to vote - regardless of party affiliation - one vote per member - but you can change your mind as many times as you want - I’ve changed my mind three times already this morning ...

[Straightliner59]

I would go with the smaller. It's closer to correct, and, I think the larger wire may draw attention away from other details.

[Pico]

Smaller.

[absmiami]

You win !  I did some web snooping this afternoon. Some pages of the ‘65 Ford performance    Pamphlet for this engine have crept onto the internet and it is pretty clear from the drawings that the smaller wire size will better. 
Mad;  do you have that pamphlet ??

[mad mike]

Yup, got it here as a reprint https://www.autobooks-aerobooks.com/product/ford-competitioin-engine/

Some guy had an original one on ebay for 300 bucks...

[absmiami]

Just ordered mine. Was not aware of the reprint. Thanks again 

Some slow going. Removed some of the valve cover bolts and drilled .0125 holes for some .012 nickel rod- then cut and drilled .015 by .040 evergreen strip   these will Serve as the bases for the plug looms - which are on their way from detail master. Also placed some .047 plastic plugs into the cylinder head to hold the base of the carbs 
and you’ll notice from the mock up shot the stagger of the cylinder heads. Not sure that the Gurney Eagle kit got this right. - will check 

[landman]

Fascinating.

[absmiami]

Shortly after my book order.  Auto books informed me that the Ford performance reprint was not available - but they did agree to seek Ford’s permission to do another reprint - or perhaps something electronic.  We’ll see

anyway - here’s an update ...

[absmiami]

Starting with some .024 nickel rod I bent this to the shape of the bracket that straddles the fuel blocks in the center of the front gear train cover and soldered it to a strip of Nickel strip. Finished with some files and sanding sticks 

and careful with the balsa wood.    It is flammable ...