iBorg Posted July 24, 2019 Posted July 24, 2019 I recently saw a video of filling plastic seams. I'm having a senior moment and can't remember how it was done. What I do remember was after applying the filler, the use of some liquid was used to smooth the seam filler. I know it is a vague description but if you can help refresh my memory, I'd appreciate it.
64Comet404 Posted July 24, 2019 Posted July 24, 2019 I don't know if it's the same as on the video, but I have laid down Tamiya putty over seams, and then over-coated the putty with liquid cement to help the putty sink down into the seam. I haven't used this technique in a while, have switched over to using various grades of Mr. Surfacer instead.
peteski Posted July 24, 2019 Posted July 24, 2019 I hope that it was not baking soda followed by CA glue. I would highly discourage that type of filler. I wonder if it was the acrylic powder and hardener liquid. Stuff you can get at beauty shops (for fingernail sculpting).
Chariots of Fire Posted July 24, 2019 Posted July 24, 2019 If the seams are small you can use CA glue by putting it in the seam and then add some plastic sanding dust. Turns hard as a rock and you don't see any ghosting afterward. The only drawback is that the seam is harder than the surrounding plastic so you have to be stingy on the amount of glue in order to reduce the amount of sanding necessary. If seams are large try using another strip of plastic to fill in most of it. Carve the plastic to a rough shape to fill the void and then do the CA and sanding dust truck. Tamiya putty is a good material also but it takes a while to really set up to where you can sand it smooth. Again, for small seams and joints only!
iBorg Posted July 24, 2019 Author Posted July 24, 2019 Maybe the Tamiya Putty with liquid cement to help it sink in.
Bainford Posted July 24, 2019 Posted July 24, 2019 I fill seams and sink marks with regular automotive glazing or spot putty. The putty works well as a filler and dries quickly, but doesn't feather out really well, so after the initial sanding I brush over it with a coat of Gunze Mr Surfacer 1000 or 1500. Re-sand, and if needed reapply. This stuff seals the porosity of the putty and feathers out really well. The Mr Surfacer also works very well for filling scratches and small damage such as panel scriber slips. Also, a warning; Spot and glazing putty (the solvent based stuff, not the two part putty) works great but should only be used when applied in small quantities. Heavy applications will warp and distort plastic and cause sink marks, even months after application, just like the old tube glue can do when applied too heavy.
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