Paint it or build it in its molded color

[hpiguy]

That's the Revell snap tite 57 right? An excellent kit and nice work on yours.

I just did one for review and loved how nice that black looked right from the box. Nice and smooth. Easily glossed like you did.

The Japanese model companies have perfected the gloss molded colored plastic on their cars and other kits. It looks polished and gleaming right from the box. Fujimi, Bandai, etc. excel at it.

Edited September 5, 2019 by hpiguy

[ewetwo]

Thank you Chris. I have some kits I've put the pledge on that have create creases or lines in the paint. Figured it was the Pledge. But reading this I'm not so sure. The two I noticed the most were painted with enamel. And were left alone for weeks before I started to build them. So by the time they got Pledged they would have been way over a month. But I'm thinking maybe letting them sit longer might let the enamel air out more. That's my thought. I'll have to try washing them to get the Pledge off and see if it's actually in the paint itself.

[hpiguy]

2 minutes ago, ewetwo said:

Thank you Chris. I have some kits I've put the pledge on that have create creases or lines in the paint. Figured it was the Pledge. But reading this I'm not so sure. The two I noticed the most were painted with enamel. And were left alone for weeks before I started to build them. So by the time they got Pledged they would have been way over a month. But I'm thinking maybe letting them sit longer might let the enamel air out more. That's my thought. I'll have to try washing them to get the Pledge off and see if it's actually in the paint itself.

This is just a total guess, but if you see the Future crack or get lines it might means the enamel under it is still moving, likely not totally hardened.

So it moves a bit as it hardens up and cracks the Future above it which dried and hardened almost immediately.  

[ewetwo]

So wash them so the Pledge is off and let them air out more? 

Edited September 5, 2019 by ewetwo

[Classicgas]

23 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I don't agree.

I don't believe that without being told, you would have ever been able to tell that at least these models were not painted, at least from the photos.

It's easy to say that in hindsight, but without being supplied that information beforehand, I don't think that you would have been able to make that determination.

 

I consider myself to have a pretty good eye for this sort of thing, and I would have never known without being told.

 

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And I respectfully disagree. I will give you the Superbee, that one is a tough call but I see the plastic in the t bird. There is no right or wrong here, it's in how the individuals eye see things. I have seen paint I thought was kit plastic so it's not always cut and dry. A lot depends on how well things are done as well. Yours are among the better ones I've seen.

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 9/5/2019 at 5:16 PM, Classicgas said:

And I respectfully disagree. I will give you the Superbee, that one is a tough call but I see the plastic in the t bird. There is no right or wrong here, it's in how the individuals eye see things. I have seen paint I thought was kit plastic so it's not always cut and dry. A lot depends on how well things are done as well. Yours are among the better ones I've seen.

Well thank you Ray.

I appreciate the tribute.

But personally, I can see nothing about the T-Bird that tells me that it could not just as easily be a very nice aqua paint job.

 

 

Steve

[Classicgas]

What's with the "Ray" thing? That's not my name. I'm trying to respectfully disagree and compliment you on nice work. One reason I see the "plastic" under your clear on the t bird is I know that color well, when I was young I had a uncle in Washington state that had one, and while yours is very close the plastic is off just enough to my eye. 

Edited September 9, 2019 by Classicgas

[StevenGuthmiller]

3 hours ago, Classicgas said:

What's with the "Ray" thing? That's not my name. I'm trying to respectfully disagree and compliment you on nice work. One reason I see the "plastic" under your clear on the t bird is I know that color well, when I was young I had a uncle in Washington state that had one, and while yours is very close the plastic is off just enough to my eye. 

Sorry Lee.

Don't get excited.

I just typed the wrong name in my response.

I was thinking of someone else at the time.

No disrespect intended.

 

By the way, the T-bird is not mine.

The '61 Fury is mine, so I guess we're even.

 

And on the color note, I think that we can all agree that there are a ton of models built all of the time with incorrect colors.

 

 

Steve

[Classicgas]

No worries Steve.  Your Fury has me fooled I will admit.

[TarheelRick]

OK, what is the accepted procedure for polishing virgin plastic?  Do you use  progressively finer wet polishing pads and finish off with a good wax, or do you  use a liquid/paste combination?  I mentioned in an earlier post I have the Dirty Donny GTX, I also have a very pretty black Academy Hyundai Azera/Grandeur I would like to polish.  Any help will be appreciated.

[Snake45]

24 minutes ago, TarheelRick said:

OK, what is the accepted procedure for polishing virgin plastic?  Do you use  progressively finer wet polishing pads and finish off with a good wax, or do you  use a liquid/paste combination?  I mentioned in an earlier post I have the Dirty Donny GTX, I also have a very pretty black Academy Hyundai Azera/Grandeur I would like to polish.  Any help will be appreciated.

I knock off all molding lines and flash with files, sandpapers, Xacto, whatever, then block-sand the high spots such as around door lines, and then I go at it with either nail polishing sticks or Wright's Silver Cream or both. It's not terribly different from polishing paint. In fact, you can go a little harder, as you never have to worry about "burning through." (This does NOT mean that you're okay to use power tools for the job.) 

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, TarheelRick said:

OK, what is the accepted procedure for polishing virgin plastic?  Do you use  progressively finer wet polishing pads and finish off with a good wax, or do you  use a liquid/paste combination?  I mentioned in an earlier post I have the Dirty Donny GTX, I also have a very pretty black Academy Hyundai Azera/Grandeur I would like to polish.  Any help will be appreciated.

I treat it exactly like paint.

As Snake said,  I remove the mold lines and then polish with a Micro Mesh polishing kit and Novus polishes just as if it were paint.

 

The nice part is that you don't have to lay off of the high points.

You're not going to burn through the paint!

 

 

Steve

[TarheelRick]

8 hours ago, Snake45 said:

(This does NOT mean that you're okay to use power tools for the job.) 

You mean I can't use my 5' disc grinder?  What fun is that.  Thanks to both of you for your help.

[The Outhouse Mouse]

I have that Coronet. The polish really darkened the blue (mine is molded in blue gray, but I've yet to see anything metallic about it). I have a 1969 Cougar that is  molded in orange and has a mold line. I have thought about sanding the mold line with 8000, 10000 and 12000 grit sanding pads. I plan to experiment with scrap orange plastic first.