landman Posted January 13, 2020 Posted January 13, 2020 Awe inspiring. So I hear you are building a 4' X 8' diorama of road construction once you get all your machines done........?
redneckrigger Posted January 14, 2020 Author Posted January 14, 2020 (edited) Got the right hand crawler frame done. Then it was on to the feed auger, right hand and left hand. This was a bit of a challenge but it came out okay. I used a .50 BMG case to punch out .50 diameter discs and then used a 5.56mm case to punch out the center and assembled them on the center shaft. Started bashing together a Continental F244 flathead six power plant. This build is a huge challenge as it is a very large number of subassemblies with seemingly zero relationship to each other. But it's coming along! Edited January 14, 2020 by redneckrigger
redneckrigger Posted January 14, 2020 Author Posted January 14, 2020 13 hours ago, landman said: Awe inspiring. So I hear you are building a 4' X 8' diorama of road construction once you get all your machines done........? You are a funny guy! LOL.....I only WISH I had the talent to do a diorama. I will settle for watching your shop diorama!
gotnitro? Posted January 14, 2020 Posted January 14, 2020 Outstanding work ! I had to chuckle about using 50 bmg for punches , perfect tool for the task Your auger turned out fantastic, actually been head scratching about how to make one for sicard blower...and you've done it ! Keep up the great work
Tesla Posted January 14, 2020 Posted January 14, 2020 I agree with Jeff...I've often wondered how to make an auger. Great work as always!!
kilrathy10 Posted January 14, 2020 Posted January 14, 2020 Dude!!!! You don't mess around, do you...My goodness... What an amazing project...
Hermann Kersten Posted January 15, 2020 Posted January 15, 2020 Very nice project Tom, i like the detailed pictures to show us how you scratch this machine. The bullet casings using as a punch and die, proves that a modeler can be very inventive.? Hermann.
redneckrigger Posted January 15, 2020 Author Posted January 15, 2020 23 hours ago, gotnitro? said: Outstanding work ! I had to chuckle about using 50 bmg for punches , perfect tool for the task Your auger turned out fantastic, actually been head scratching about how to make one for sicard blower...and you've done it ! Keep up the great work 2 hours ago, Hermann Kersten said: Very nice project Tom, i like the detailed pictures to show us how you scratch this machine. The bullet casings using as a punch and die, proves that a modeler can be very inventive.? Hermann. When you own and run a gun shop, you have all sorts of interesting bits and pieces around! Racked my brain how to get 1/2" diameter discs and bingo, it just popped into my head!
redneckrigger Posted January 15, 2020 Author Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) The auger was actually not hard to make though I had to give it a lot of thought and look at real 1:1 augers. I made the discs as noted and used a proper sized tube for assembling the discs onto. I slit the discs as shown. Then giving them a proper twist either left hand or right hand, I put them on the tube. I tacked the first one in place at the very beginning with CA cement and accelerator. Then I twisted it out to the pitch I wanted and attached that end. The next piece was overlapped on the first one about 1/16" and a drop of CA was applied between the two disc edges and clamped with a pair of tiny pliers and accelerator was applied. I proceeded on to the end of the auger in this manner, rinse and repeat, until I got the length I wanted and then made a mirror image. I then went back and added more CA as needed to make it permanent. Only glued my fingers together once! Pretty happy with the way it came out, and if I make another one for something in the future, it will be all that much easier! Edited January 15, 2020 by redneckrigger
redneckrigger Posted January 20, 2020 Author Posted January 20, 2020 (edited) Worked on the feed conveyor today. Am trying three different designs. For the very old metal slat style, I used a chain assembly from a Tamiya RC truck as the conveyor chain. Sprockets from MicroMark on 1/8" aluminum rod and overlapping slats attached, and it looks pretty good. Will attach the end slats at the sprockets at final assembly. For the second type will use drag bars instead of slats. For the newer design, I will do a rubber belt. How they come out will determine which I use. Getting there! Edited January 20, 2020 by redneckrigger
redneckrigger Posted January 28, 2020 Author Posted January 28, 2020 Decided to go with the drag bar type conveyor. Got it all made up and made up the side frames. Slow but sure!
redneckrigger Posted January 28, 2020 Author Posted January 28, 2020 (edited) Frame roughed in with crawler frames installed...... Edited January 28, 2020 by redneckrigger
Tesla Posted January 28, 2020 Posted January 28, 2020 The conveyor looks great! I like the metal blocks that you use for assembly and alignment
redneckrigger Posted February 4, 2020 Author Posted February 4, 2020 (edited) Well, those of you who have seen my “on the workbench” projects before, know that I very often take about two steps back for each step forward until I get well along in the build. So, not to disappoint, I just took a BUNCH of steps backwards! I was simply not happy with the drag bar feed conveyor as it was sorely out of scale. So, I took a step back and decided to use chain that will be more in scale, that Charlie Rowley told me about. It will be a real chore to attach the drag bars but it will look SO much better. Then, when I made THAT adjustment, I made the main frame more to the proper scale as well. Then to just add a bit of excitement to the mix, I rebuilt the crawler frames to use miniature pillow blocks just like the real deal, instead of simple shafts stuck to the side plates. So...... here is the updated main frame, and the new crawler frames. Also shown is the power train diagram with all of the gearboxes, clutches, shafts and countershafts, sprockets and chains and the feed conveyor, augers, crawlers etc. Needless to say, a pretty complex build. Edited February 4, 2020 by redneckrigger
Warren D Posted February 4, 2020 Posted February 4, 2020 You have the patience of a saint! Just a simple swivel for a log grapple has been throwing me fits, I can't imaging how I'd deal with the level of detail you're doing.....
redneckrigger Posted February 4, 2020 Author Posted February 4, 2020 1 hour ago, Warren D said: You have the patience of a saint! Just a simple swivel for a log grapple has been throwing me fits, I can't imaging how I'd deal with the level of detail you're doing..... Actually, I'm not sure how I am dealing with it! One step forward, two back.......!
Hermann Kersten Posted February 4, 2020 Posted February 4, 2020 Time consuming details, what will pay off at the end.? I love this kind of projects. Hermann.
gotnitro? Posted February 4, 2020 Posted February 4, 2020 Excellent work and craftsmanship Every part really looks like the real item
Chariots of Fire Posted February 4, 2020 Posted February 4, 2020 I just got through doing some of what you have been doing! Working on the IH brush truck I built up an engine using a old Mack block. Got it all done but quickly found that it was way too big! The firewall would have been sitting about 1/2" behind the cowl! Tried moving the engine forward and that didn't work. So it was a couple of steps backward to get another engine. Back in 1967 when this truck was built they were still using relatively small gas engines for this type of use so I dragged out one of the 1950 Chevy pickup kits and rebuilt its engine. I had to cut the transmission loose and put it on the other end of the block though, because the IH manifolds and plugs are opposite to the Chevy. Here is a comparison of the two engines and you can see how much smaller the Chevy engine is. Notice where the transmission sits in the first photo. It is way up inder the raised cross member. In the second photo that's the transfer case that sits under it. And here is a look at the engine inside the cab area. The firewall also came from the Chevy kit and was only trimmed a small amount at the corners and sides to get it to fit. Much of the thick resin cowl was ground away to allow it to fit better. Note how thick the hood is that was cut loose from the cab. I made a mold and have cast the outside shape of the hood. I'll slush cast it so that it is thin all the way around. That way I can cut it down the center and add a hinge.
redneckrigger Posted February 4, 2020 Author Posted February 4, 2020 Charlie, now I don’t feel so bad, seeing as even the best has the same issues!! Of course, PART of my reversal was due to finding out about the MUCH more in-scale chains from Micro-Mark from you! Can’t wait to see that old ‘ Binder in person!
gotnitro? Posted February 5, 2020 Posted February 5, 2020 (edited) Could you share a link to the chains Hahhaha see what I did there ?? Edited February 5, 2020 by gotnitro? Typo
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