Clear over foil?

[berr13]

Okay, what's the consensus on applying lacquer gloss clear over Bare-Metal foil?  I've got a project (a '64 Plymouth Super Stock) that requires the decals going over the chrome trim, and I'd like to clear the body after foil and decals.  Any advice on how lacquer clear affects the foil?  Thanks

[StevenGuthmiller]

It won't hurt it in the least.

I do it to some degree on every build.

Usually just over small emblems and badges.

Although the clear will often reduce the brilliance of the foil a bit.

 

 

Steve

Edited January 7, 2020 by StevenGuthmiller

[espo]

I'm of the other school of thought on clearing over foil, I just don't. Not that either way is wrong but more of what looks correct to my eyes anyway. I can see where painting clear over chrome foil would have an advantage over a long period of time in the area of dusting and any future polishing of the model. This would protect inadvertently catching the edge of the foil and damaging the foil. I'd just try it both ways and see what works best for you and your building style. 

[Plowboy]

If you can be absolutely sure that your clear won't yellow over time, you'll be OK. If not, don't do it. Many years ago, I ruined a couple of models by spraying Testors clear enamel over foil. One I didn't care about. The other had to be stripped. It's still setting in a box. Haven't sprayed clear of any kind over foil since. It's an unnecessary step if the foil is applied correctly. 

[Tom Geiger]

agreeing with Roger!  BMF properly applied will adhere well and doesn't need to be sealed in.

BMF has it's own level of shine, and clearing over it takes that away.  The different levels of shine are what make a model look real.

[Nells250]

Have built models with and without clear over the foil... haven't noticed any issues as they have aged.  If anything, the clear helps to seal the foil.  

BUT, whatever you do, DO NOT CLEAR BLACK FOIL!  The one time I tried it the clear was too "hot" and melted off whatever the manufacturer used to make the foil black.  This was a long time go, so they may have changed things a bit... but TEST TEST TEST first!

[berr13]

Thanks, guys.  I'm building a Milne Brothers '64 Plymouth SS car.  Their cars were painted in Petty blue, and they added a large "Milne Brothers" on the side, over the chrome side molding.  So I figure for authenticity's sake I'll need to do the same thing, and then I'd like to seal the decals with a coat of Testors lacquer clear.  Sounds like there's agreement that the clear won't damage the foil, but just to be on the safe side I'll test it first.

Thanks to everyone for the advice!

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

Just for experimental purposes, let's see who can guess which of these builds has clear over the foil, and which does not.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[OldNYJim]

I would guess that the bottom one has the clear over the foil..but I’m only 90% sure, if that...

[berr13]

I'm going to guess the bottom one, too, but I wouldn't bet money on it!  Mostly I'm looking at the models and appreciating the workmanship.  Excellent builds!

[Cool Hand]

Could you possibly apply the decals first and seal them with the clear, then apply the Bmf after and work it up to the edge of the decal. Just thinking out aloud and probably wrong, but thought it might be worth suggesting.

[espo]

13 hours ago, Cool Hand said:

Could you possibly apply the decals first and seal them with the clear, then apply the Bmf after and work it up to the edge of the decal. Just thinking out aloud and probably wrong, but thought it might be worth suggesting.

That's how I've built most of my models for years. As for your decal issue that is the way I would do it. Now I'm sure there will be others with variations in this idea. This shouldn't be very difficult to do when apply the foil. Like so many others I will foil one section of the trim at a time. I would foil the fender and stop at the door and end the foil application. Then do the same on the door and then the rear quarter panel. The gape between body panels are not foiled and with a light application of darkened body color around the door opening it looks more realistic. This is also an easier way to apply foil than trying to do the entire side of the body and uses less foil. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, espo said:

That's how I've built most of my models for years. As for your decal issue that is the way I would do it. Now I'm sure there will be others with variations in this idea. This shouldn't be very difficult to do when apply the foil. Like so many others I will foil one section of the trim at a time. I would foil the fender and stop at the door and end the foil application. Then do the same on the door and then the rear quarter panel. The gape between body panels are not foiled and with a light application of darkened body color around the door opening it looks more realistic. This is also an easier way to apply foil than trying to do the entire side of the body and uses less foil. 

Agreed.

I always do individual body panels separately when foiling.

It's much easier to handle a 3 inch piece of foil than an 8 inch one.

 

 

Steve

[berr13]

On 1/8/2020 at 2:10 AM, Cool Hand said:

Could you possibly apply the decals first and seal them with the clear, then apply the Bmf after and work it up to the edge of the decal. Just thinking out aloud and probably wrong, but thought it might be worth suggesting.

I hadn't considered that idea, and I guess it is a possibility.  In the photos I've seen of the cars, it's readily apparent that the graphics were applied over the moldings, and I'd like to replicate that feature on the model, I think.  Also, since several posts have suggested that clear over BMF hasn't been a problem for them, I'm thinking I should be alright, too.  I will experiment first, though.  I've got the car painted and drying, and I'm eager to get to work on it!