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Posted

As usual, the paint refuses to cooperate. I used Duplicolor primer and Tamyia TS-14 and look what I got gor a result. I guess I have to wetsand to get rid of the crazing.

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Posted (edited)
2 minutes ago, slusher said:

Pat, do you use this combination often? Curious why you didn’t use Tamiya primer....

Don't have any.

Edited by landman
Posted

Wet sanded & re-shot. Similar but shinier. And here I thought using Tamyia would be gentler than hardware store paint. I guess I'll go back to hardware store paint even if it takes forever to dry. I wonder if shiny wrinkles might catch on as a fad??

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Posted

Here is a better view. Come to think of it, I think it is the primer who crazed the plastic and not the black. I remember thinking it looked sort of "off" when I looked at it. Then it must be a different plastic because that primer hasn't done that before. Also had to open some areas of the tub in order for it to sit properly on the chassis.

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Posted

Looks good Pat, I use Krylon short cuts flat black dries semi gloss finish" I have cleared i with wet look clear no reactions. I believe Ray uses short cuts also. They dry fast...

Posted
15 minutes ago, espo said:

To bad about the crazing of the plastic body. I've destroyed a few this way in the past. 

Is there a cure?

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, landman said:

Is there a cure?

 

In my case I cured it by replacing the '56 Nomad body with a new kit and started over. The chassis and interior went into a Resin '56 Chevy Sedan Delivery. In my opinion  once the plastic is crazed much at all it is just easier to get another body and start over. There is just to much sanding and loss of body detail to be worth the time. Sorry but that's my opinion. 

Posted
8 hours ago, espo said:

In my case I cured it by replacing the '56 Nomad body with a new kit and started over. The chassis and interior went into a Resin '56 Chevy Sedan Delivery. In my opinion  once the plastic is crazed much at all it is just easier to get another body and start over. There is just to much sanding and loss of body detail to be worth the time. Sorry but that's my opinion. 

Unfortunately, I don't have another one, so I'll have to make do.

Posted

Raised the transmission tunnel. The back seat will hide the holes I had made to clear the wheel wells. Would have loved to use the Buick's high back buckets along with its console but the seats are too big. The optional custom buckets from the Stude kit will work. Spent some time adjusting the air intake to fit an airbox from the parts bin.

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Posted
9 hours ago, landman said:

Is there a cure?

 

Some of the problems could be due to the kit plastic. Over the years, I have had some issues with the styrene used in AMT's mid-1970s releases, just not as forgiving as earlier and later plastic compounds. 

Posted
11 minutes ago, 64Comet404 said:

Some of the problems could be due to the kit plastic. Over the years, I have had some issues with the styrene used in AMT's mid-1970s releases, just not as forgiving as earlier and later plastic compounds. 

I am pretty sure now that is what it is. I use Duplicolor primer all the time and it doesn’t do that. 

Posted

The interior is the tub, rear seat, dash and optional bucket seats from the Stude kit with the console and steering wheel of the Buick. I added modern gauge faces.

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Posted

Nice work so far. It's a bummer about the crazing, good recovery though.

I really enjoy your diorama setups for the progress photos, very cool!

David G.

Posted
2 hours ago, David G. said:

Nice work so far. It's a bummer about the crazing, good recovery though.

I really enjoy your diorama setups for the progress photos, very cool!

David G.

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