Wheel Arch Molding Foiling Tutorial

[StevenGuthmiller]

  On 10/14/2021 at 1:07 PM, Dpate said:

You think the BMF would do better especially around windshields and stuff if we scribed like we do panel lines doors etc?  The windshield A pillers and cowl be pretty shallow, and maybe with a little scribing not much to make it little less shallow.  The BMF should be able to "sit" in better and hold without lifting up after trimming so close.  

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I pretty much deepen every piece of trim on the body with a little extra scribing now, but that was not always the case.

But, that said, it's not a bad idea, and I've started doing it on every project.

It does make foiling easier, and gives better visual definition of the trim.

 

 

 

Steve

[Dpate]

  On 10/14/2021 at 4:19 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I pretty much deepen every piece of trim on the body with a little extra scribing now, but that was not always the case.

But, that said, it's not a bad idea, and I've started doing it on every project.

It does make foiling easier, and gives better visual definition of the trim.

 

 

 

Steve

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Going to start doing it myself.

[customline]

This method is genius! ( while striking my forehead with the palm of my hand) . Got a foil job coming up soon. Can't wait to try this.

BTW, sometimes I find quite a lot of adhesive residue when removing excess foil. It seems to be only recently as I had not noticed this happening in the past. The quality of the newer stuff is suspect. I know the "ULTRA BRIGHT" is practically unworkable.  The foil I bought within the last year labeled "NEW IMPROVED CHROME" has been OK, but what I've  read here about the quality differences confuses me. Between the loss of the Model Master line and this foil thing going on, I'm a bit worried ?. 

[peteski]

  On 12/9/2021 at 2:27 PM, customline said:

This method is genius! ( while striking my forehead with the palm of my hand) . Got a foil job coming up soon. Can't wait to try this.

BTW, sometimes I find quite a lot of adhesive residue when removing excess foil. It seems to be only recently as I had not noticed this happening in the past. The quality of the newer stuff is suspect. I know the "ULTRA BRIGHT" is practically unworkable.  The foil I bought within the last year labeled "NEW IMPROVED CHROME" has been OK, but what I've  read here about the quality differences confuses me. Between the loss of the Model Master line and this foil thing going on, I'm a bit worried ?. 

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Yes, we do know then new BMF Chrome foil sucks.  We have been discussing it for some time:

I never liked Model Master foil. I bought one sheet when it first came out, tried it (hated it) and put it aside. I still have that sheet with very small piece missing.

As for the glue residue. I believe that I mentioned earlier in this thread that I have been using "follow the masking tape" technique for decades, but I apply the tape to the model first (under the foil). Then burnish the foil over the tape, cut, then peel off the tape (with the foil) on it.  Then I usually have to do some additional burnishing of the foil's edge.  Works really well.

Edited December 10, 2021 by peteski

[customline]

  On 12/10/2021 at 3:59 AM, peteski said:

Yes, we do know then new BMF Chrome foil sucks.  We have been discussing it for some time:

I never liked Model Master foil. I bought one sheet when it first came out, tried it (hated it) and put it aside. I still have that sheet with very small piece missing.

As for the glue residue. I believe that I mentioned earlier in this thread that I have been using "follow the masking tape" technique for decades, but I apply the tape to the model first (under the foil). Then burnish the foil over the tape, cut, then peel off the tape (with the foil) on it.  Then I usually have to do some additional burnishing of the foil's edge.  Works really well.

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Pete, thanks for that "tape under foil" thing. I will definitely try that; it makes sense ?

[Kenmojr]

Stunning work.

[jaftygas]

  On 5/19/2020 at 5:08 AM, StevenGuthmiller said:

Exactly the same technique as with the wheel arches.

Using blue painters tape as a guide.

Once you get used to this technique, you'll get perfectly straight edges every time, even if the trim edges are not very defined.

 

 

 

Steve

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Before I add to Stevens already brilliant technique, I must say bravo to this excellent tutorial. However, in the case of shallow window lines, I have used a tape made for scribing strait edges. Use a Tamiya panel line scriber to define the line then do exactly as Steven mentioned in the post with blue painters tape. It is a labor of love after all, and this hobby requires patience as a prerequisite to premium result. Never have I seen better wheel arch BMF treatment. Thank you Steven for the nothing short of near protection presentation.

 

 

Joey.

[StevenGuthmiller]

  On 5/22/2023 at 3:41 AM, jaftygas said:

Before I add to Stevens already brilliant technique, I must say bravo to this excellent tutorial. However, in the case of shallow window lines, I have used a tape made for scribing strait edges. Use a Tamiya panel line scriber to define the line then do exactly as Steven mentioned in the post with blue painters tape. It is a labor of love after all, and this hobby requires patience as a prerequisite to premium result. Never have I seen better wheel arch BMF treatment. Thank you Steven for the nothing short of near protection presentation.

 

 

Joey.

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Thanks Joe!

I have begun scribing all of my trim as well.

The two techniques combined work nearly flawlessly.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[jaftygas]

  On 5/22/2023 at 3:57 AM, StevenGuthmiller said:

Thanks Joe!

I have begun scribing all of my trim as well.

The two techniques combined work nearly flawlessly.

 

 

 

 

Steve

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You’re welcome Steve. Let the Pontiacs and Oldsmobiles roll! 

[jaftygas]

Remember kids if you ain’t first your last!

[Butter 1]

Glad I ran across this thread. The blue tape guide is so much better than what I was dong.

[Roadrunner]

My current (and rather shameful) way of dealing with chrome, is to just avoid it whenever possible. Old roadsters, coupes and sedans usually seem devoid of excessive chrome, and newer Challengers, Chargers and such, are virtually chrome-less, so that's what I'll probably stick with. I'll never be the master that Steve is, I'm quite  sure of that.

[Bugatti Fan]

Very useful technique outlined here.

On bigger models I have used smooth plumbers self adhesive aluminium tape. It is a bit thicker than BMF and buffs up really well but the application technique is basically the same.

Edited October 13, 2023 by Bugatti Fan

[Roadrunner]

I just today discovered that Goo Gone, quite easily removes BMF excess glue residue, which is excellent to know. I have yet to try it on a lacquered finish, but will report my results when I do.

[Roadrunner]

OK, a scrap hood was sacrificed for this experiment. Painted and clear coated (with Testors lacquers, and no prep at all), then a patch of BMF applied and burnished. I'll give this a couple of days, then see if the Goo Gone has any affect at all on the lacquer, and I'm betting it will not.

[STU111]

This is one of the reasons I joined the forum. Foiling a car body has been something that has frustrated me since I started building cars again, and threads like this tutorial are a gold mine of information. I’ll certainly be trying this method on my next project. Thank you for sharing.

Cheers, Stu.