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10 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Yep it was Jeff, but I still didn't get my answer about washing after steel wooling between color coats. At least I don't think so?

Sorry about all the questions?

Dunk a Createx painted spoon under a faucet= instant answer. Any acrylic paint I've used,once it's dried, is essentially water proof. You can wash it right off in water till it dries though. I suspect Createx is no different but a simple test would tell you for sure.

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3 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Makes sense Dave, another "duuuuuh" moment for me.  Actually, I have to redo the hood and was washing the paint off after using windex as was suggested.  Trust me, it did'nt come off all that easily.

I've shot base colors in acrylic and messed up in one way or another and went right to the kitchen sink and rinsed it off, blew dried and re-shot it.. Let it dry a day or two and it's three days in the purple pond and scrub it off. It's enough to give up hope on the purple pond lol. I did a body in a base of pearl craft paint, topped with Liquitex Soft Body artist acrylic topped with clear lacquer a couple of years ago. A few months later I decided I didn't like the color and dumped it in the purple pond, it took 5 days to get it really going and then some parts I used the back side of a butter knife to scrape it off. Went pretty easy that way. Just sayin.

I hate reshooting hoods alone, especially in metallics, seems they never match the original shooting. Then you got this bozo hood sticking out like a sore thumb. So I tend to combine the hood with body and shoot down on the whole thing, let the sides blend in. Then it matches at least in a convincing way..

 

Edited by Dave G.
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4 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Makes sense Dave, another "duuuuuh" moment for me.  Actually, I have to redo the hood and was washing the paint off after using windex as was suggested.  Trust me, it did'nt come off all that easily.

Wel, it’s waaaaaaay easier than cleaning off enamels

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1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

I know what ya mean Dave about now matching the hood color and of course did think about that.  I'm guessing just build up the color to a close match.

I hope it works out for ya. Pearl maybe won't be as tricky as outright metallic can be.

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On 11/20/2020 at 4:56 PM, TransAmMike said:

Yep it was Jeff, but I still didn't get my answer about washing after steel wooling between color coats. At least I don't think so?

Sorry about all the questions?

Mike:   When I use Steel wool, if before I paint or between color coats, because steel wool will leave specks of it self on the raw plastic or the painted coats and I don't want them in my paint. Usually I just go to the kitchen sink and use the sprayer an give it a good spray down and set it aside to dry.

Before doing anything to my model body, I steel wool it very good than take it to the kitchen sink and give it a good washing in warm water with soap to remove any mold release that might be left on the plastic. Set it a side to dry. When it's dry I rub it with a soft cloth an than go to do what I want with it.

This is just the way I do it, seems like a lot of work, but if the paint (I ain't the best painter) comes out good I am happy. This is what works for me.

                                                                                        Jeff

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Thanks for coments Jeff.  Yep, I'd say it's a pretty universal thing to do; the washing the body  with dish soap prior to priming/painting. Also I'm pretty sure the steel wool leaves miniscule particles on the surface after using it.  After removing the paint from the hood I had painted, it's obvious a little water won't hurt the Createx paint after it dries overnight.

 

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I resprayed the hood I mentioned earlier and got it to match the rest of the body.  Still undecided on a clear, probably because I don't get out much and  really don't like to like to order too much on line and pay rediculous shipping.  So I guess unless I do decide to order something I'll have too.  Locally I'd say it would be Krylon (or maybe Rustoleum?), Duplicolor, Hobby Lobby ModelMaster or Testors.  Would like to try the Createx but HL for some reason doesn't sell the clear ya'll recommended.

Of course , Future is still a consideration since I have bottle of it, but seems it gets frowned on a good bit. 

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OK all you Guys' who have chimed in on this lengthy thread I started with your opinions and suggestions I think I have come to a drastically different conclusion.

After beating the Createx subject to death and looking long and hard at my Cutlass paint job, I've  pretty much decided to go the Scalefinishes route.  

I just don't like the look and feel of the finish and really don't want to clear it and have to deal with removing it if it still doesn't look good enough for me.

So my next question, can I spray the Scalefinishes base over the Createx acrylic (after sanding of course or steel wooling) or should I reprime it over the Createx??

I know there will be some interesting comments so bring it on LOL.

 

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7 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

OK all you Guys' who have chimed in on this lengthy thread I started with your opinions and suggestions I think I have come to a drastically different conclusion.

After beating the Createx subject to death and looking long and hard at my Cutlass paint job, I've  pretty much decided to go the Scalefinishes route.  

I just don't like the look and feel of the finish and really don't want to clear it and have to deal with removing it if it still doesn't look good enough for me.

So my next question, can I spray the Scalefinishes base over the Createx acrylic (after sanding of course or steel wooling) or should I reprime it over the Createx??

I know there will be some interesting comments so bring it on LOL.

 

You're not gonna like my reply Mike: I'd strip it back to plastic and start over from primer on up and have done it myself so I know where you're at. I use the purple pond ( Purple Power) treatment but there are other ways.

Just me being me, my answers are never an easy swallow it seems ! The thing is if you leave the Createx on there you still have that rubber like base plus and you're building thickness too.

 

Edited by Dave G.
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17 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Not sure I have it in me to tackle stripping all that paint off.  Just getting the paint off the hood was a chore tho I didn't use the "purple pond" method.

Purple pond isn't all that powerful anyway, the stuff doesn't seem to be what it used to be.? 

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1 minute ago, TransAmMike said:

Kind of a tough decision for me on this one.  But it seems all MY decisions are tough.  Maybe I overthink too much?

I told you about the Mustang body I think. What I didn't tell you is the model was basically all built but the wheels to put on. Popped it apart, even got the glass out without breaking it and kasplush into the pond. ? Hey, the color was bugging me !

 

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1 minute ago, TransAmMike said:

So did it come off fairly easy??  

Once I figure the back side of a butter knife scraped the stuff right off and didn't dig up the plastic, no not hard at all. Prior to that was two to three days of soaking and buffing the thing with a tooth brush, that was a joke trying to do it with that foolish thing.

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I can see this is a real struggle for you. If you steel wool and shoot another coat then what ? Or put another way, what are you trying to gain ? Base coat doesn't need to come out like top coat or clear, it needs to be uniform, smooth is always nice. From your photos at least, it looked pretty good as a base coat assuming the color is something you want.

 

Edited by Dave G.
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Mike yesterday you said you didn't like the feel of the Createx finish on your Oldsmobile. In what way, is it lumpy or something ? Or do you mean the rubbery feel of the color coat ? Then you were going to scuff and put down another coat. I've done that with craft paint, adding more thinner for that final coat. It comes out pretty ready for clear coating with whatever clear. But that's craft paint, can't speak for Createx.

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Just getting back to you here Dave, didn't realize you posted here last night.

It just feels grainy, the only way I can describe it. It actually looks OK with the exception of a couple of bubble or dirt specks. I guess I was expecting a smoother finish.  Another thing is it seems to me that  since it has cured out that the color is lighter.  Was thinking a few more coats would darken it and maybe I would get lucky and not have any debris in it.   There are no emblems to worry about build-up.

As always, thanks for your reply.

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