Createx

[TransAmMike]

Dave , I don't see on their site the size of the bottle of paint; do you know??  It appears they have the color but its not called  Saturn Gold.

[Dave G.]

35 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Dave , I don't see on their site the size of the bottle of paint; do you know??  It appears they have the color but its not called  Saturn Gold.

I think it's 1 oz pre mixed ready to spray. And I think you may need to call them about that color or email. I mentioned that in my other post, I don't think they list the color but that doesn't mean they won't mix it. In the upper video he mentions contacting them if you need a color match.

Edited November 2, 2020 by Dave G.

[StevenGuthmiller]

7 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Let me throw another bone in the works: Contact MCW via email or phone call and see if they will mix your color, if so order lacquer. They don't list it but that doesn't mean they won't mix it ( what they do is add to their list as people request a mix). And it's $7.50 a bottle for acrylic lacquer which is what your car was painted in originally.. Maybe this will help:

I don't know if MCW's policy has changed recently, but in the past, they would custom mix any color that you would like, but required that you purchase 2 one oz. bottles to do so.

That means that you will pay $15.00 for 2 oz.

A 2 oz. bottle from Scale Finishes will cost you $9.99.

 

Also keep in mind that MCW requires a minimum order of $10.00 to ship, so even if you wanted to purchase 1 jar for $7.50, you will be obligated to purchase more.

Plus the shipping costs for orders under $25.00 is $11.00. 

 

Shipping for a single 2 oz. jar of Scale Finishes paint is $5.99, so there are some cost considerations if you're on a budget.

 

Either way, I always order at least a half a dozen colors regardless of who I'm ordering from.

It's more cost effective, and I always plan on painting another model at some point.

You just need to think ahead.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[TransAmMike]

Thats true Steve.  I think i am still leaning toward the Scale Finishes now for the Cutlass.   But, since I'm going off tomorrow I might buy the Createx gold and do some experimenting.  With the 40% off its reasonable  and I could probably use it on something else less important if it doesn't work out.

[StevenGuthmiller]

55 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Thats true Steve.  I think i am still leaning toward the Scale Finishes now for the Cutlass.   But, since I'm going off tomorrow I might buy the Createx gold and do some experimenting.  With the 40% off its reasonable  and I could probably use it on something else less important if it doesn't work out.

Absolutely!

I'm not trying to talk you out of, or into anything.

I just want to give you as much information as possible so that your decision will be an informed one, no matter what you decide.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Dave G.]

16 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Thats true Steve.  I think i am still leaning toward the Scale Finishes now for the Cutlass.   But, since I'm going off tomorrow I might buy the Createx gold and do some experimenting.  With the 40% off its reasonable  and I could probably use it on something else less important if it doesn't work out.

Back on the course with the thread ! Let us know how it goes. You're looking for Auto-Air I assume ?

Edited November 3, 2020 by Dave G.

[Dave G.]

19 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I don't know if MCW's policy has changed recently, but in the past, they would custom mix any color that you would like, but required that you purchase 2 one oz. bottles to do so.

That means that you will pay $15.00 for 2 oz.

A 2 oz. bottle from Scale Finishes will cost you $9.99.

 

Also keep in mind that MCW requires a minimum order of $10.00 to ship, so even if you wanted to purchase 1 jar for $7.50, you will be obligated to purchase more.

Plus the shipping costs for orders under $25.00 is $11.00. 

 

Shipping for a single 2 oz. jar of Scale Finishes paint is $5.99, so there are some cost considerations if you're on a budget.

 

Either way, I always order at least a half a dozen colors regardless of who I'm ordering from.

It's more cost effective, and I always plan on painting another model at some point.

You just need to think ahead.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Ya, I already shot the cream wheels or I'd have ordered that as well. But nothing prompted the order failed on the single bottle of Washington Blue,  they list this color though. I got confirmation thanking me for the order and they would let me know when it ships. Shipping $10.50 but I wasn't surprised.

Edit: the order has shipped

Edited November 3, 2020 by Dave G.

[TransAmMike]

 Finally made my trip to Hobby Lobby and of course they didn't have the gold I wanted in the Wicked Color line so I just picked up the one in the picture.

With my limited air brush experience and other issues not withstanding, I was able to spray a number of spoons after spraying them with various rattle can primers.  The biggest difference is in the spoon just to the right of the paint bottle. It's clearly the lighest (it was sprayed over Krylon white primer).  The color definatetly varies by the shade of primer.  I sprayed one over gloss black(the 2d one from the right) and it is darker than the rest.  

My conclusion??  Well, I'm still on the fence on what to do about the paint. I can't honestly say any one of the samples is the right color.

Also, Using my Paasche H airbrush wasn't a particularly good experience.  I had trouble getting any consistant flow, maybe (or probably) because the air pressure would pretty quickly bleed off from the 25 psi.  Gonna take me a long time to get this right. Oh, and as I'm sure you can tell, no clear on anof the spoons.

[John Pol]

I use a Paasche H with a number 5 needle and never had a problem spraying now wicked colors different they are alot thicker

[TransAmMike]

It does have a number 5 needle.  I'm assuming higher pressure with the thicker paint too.  The compressor I was using is a tankless one but as I said the pressure kept bleeding off quickly.

[Dave G.]

Try thinning the paint some more to where it will shoot at 20-22 psi. Your compressor might keep up there. Try it with plain water in the airbrush first if need be. If that doesn't work try a #3 tip with it's smaller air cap, it's really all you need for models anyway. You need to solve this problem because even if you go OEM mix for your paint job you need steady air flow. Usually with an H though one of the above will do it with a tankless comp. And do understand the problem is the compressor not the airbrush. It's just many airbrushes have restricted airflow to something on the order of 25psi, the H will flow 50 if you set it there and the comp can't keep up.

No comment on the paint, it's pretty though. Oh and you might as well go on to clear coating it, you need to experience that anyway. I do tests like this all the time lol !! Just so I know.

Edited November 5, 2020 by Dave G.

[Rodent]

I have a small 5 gallon compressor that I use for 1:1 car and bicycle tires. A few years ago I decided to get the adaptors I needed to use it with the H and I never looked back. It's great not to have to hear the little tankless compressor I had before constantly rattling away.

[Dave G.]

5 minutes ago, Rodent said:

I have a small 5 gallon compressor that I use for 1:1 car and bicycle tires. A few years ago I decided to get the adaptors I needed to use it with the H and I never looked back. It's great not to have to hear the little tankless compressor I had before constantly rattling away.

Ya I have an 8 gal portable I use with LVLP guns, nail guns etc, air it up ahead of time for airbrushing or fill my portable tank I also have, and silent painting either way. I'll paint out in the kitchen at 6am before the ladies are even stirring and not bother them. And I get all the air flow I could ever want. Same for you imagine.

[TransAmMike]

Thanks guys, gotta get out to the garage and try your suggestions. I have a compresser (Harbor Freight) with a tank but I used the old tankless Campbell Hauseman compressor yesterday with my experiments.

 

[Dave G.]

3 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Thanks guys, gotta get out to the garage and try your suggestions. I have a compresser (Harbor Freight) with a tank but I used the old tankless Campbell Hauseman compressor yesterday with my experiments.

 

Just stay with it you'll get it working ( spraying right).

Edited November 5, 2020 by Dave G.

[TransAmMike]

I sure hope so, did'nt get to try today, decided to work on the '57 Chevy Gasser engine I'm working on.

[Dave G.]

?

[Dave G.]

My Washington Blue showed up today from MCW ( probably was at PO Sat but We didn't make it there). Looks really right, hope to shoot a little test patch tomorrow but I want to keep all I can of the 1oz mix because this is a 1/16 body and hood (Model A) it's going on. It looks like it's dead on though.

OP,  how are you making out with the air etc ?

[TransAmMike]

Humidity and temps back up here at home so I haven't tried anymore.  I did buy the Createx thinner to he sure (hopefully) I don't have any thinning issues.

[Dave G.]

8 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Humidity and temps back up here at home so I haven't tried anymore.  I did buy the Createx thinner to he sure (hopefully) I don't have any thinning issues.

It's been warm here too but dry at least. One day here was 72 or so, crazy for the east coat of New England in Nov........

You won't have thinning issues, the 4030 clear has some flow advantage though and you can use it more liberally than their thinner. But plenty of people shoot this stuff without that too it seems.. Seems to me if someone wants to seriously dive into the Createx line, might just as well follow their video recommendations.

 

[TransAmMike]

I just got the 4300 Thinner, no clear yet.  I'm still deciding what to do about the clear.  As I think we discussed here earlier, I don't like what I call "over-cleared" where it just doesn't look realistic to me.

[Dave G.]

1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

I just got the 4300 Thinner, no clear yet.  I'm still deciding what to do about the clear.  As I think we discussed here earlier, I don't like what I call "over-cleared" where it just doesn't look realistic to me.

Well the 4030 is not clear coat as I understand it, it's an additive to the paint.

You can clear coat with any number of products and have it just polished up so as it doesn't look like heavy clear coat, it can look pretty much like polished paint if done right.  It's a matter of practice and polishing to the level you want it at.

 

[TransAmMike]

Thanks Dave. I brushed some old future I had on the spoons and it actually looks pretty good, not that that 's what I'm gonna use tho.

[Dave G.]

1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

Thanks Dave. I brushed some old future I had on the spoons and it actually looks pretty good, not that that 's what I'm gonna use tho.

People do use it, it sprays pretty easy and polishes up pretty easy. If you don't bury the car in it it can polish up to a convincing factory shine. But I've only done it in tests not on a whole model. For that I tend to use Tamiya clear acrylic. Or sometimes lacquer but you really need to be set up for lacquer..

Edited November 10, 2020 by Dave G.

[Kit Basher]

6 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Well the 4030 is not clear coat as I understand it, it's an additive to the paint.

Dave is right, the 4030 is an additive for improving flow and adhesion on hard surfaces (like plastic). Make sure you mix it thoroughly with the paint before adding any thinner, or you will get mud. (At least, that's been my experience.)  For most purposes, the 4012 is the appropriate thinner.

Edited November 11, 2020 by Kit Basher