Createx

[Dave G.]

13 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I agree to an extent.

I pretty much always mix my own colors for interiors and the like, but I'm a real stickler for accuracy for body colors.

Being an almost exclusively "factory stock" builder, I like to get the body color as close to correct as possible, and I figure with Scale Finishes and MCW using factory formulations, I'm not going to get it any closer by eye.

Especially when you look at a particular color on ten cars on line, and get basically ten different shades!

 

 

 

 

Steve

Well no one here at the forums will argue with your results Steve. They speak for themselves.

 

[TransAmMike]

Well I'm sure this doesn't "fly right" with a lot of you guys but I guess being on limited income I'm a cheapskate.  I can't see spending $18-26 for model paint when I feel like I can get at least "close enough".  Also, I am looking to do acrylic and and there is also the too much metallic to think about.

But I do appreciate everyones's opinions and advise.

[Dave G.]

31 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Well I'm sure this doesn't "fly right" with a lot of you guys but I guess being on limited income I'm a cheapskate.  I can't see spending $18-26 for model paint when I feel like I can get at least "close enough".  Also, I am looking to do acrylic and and there is also the too much metallic to think about.

But I do appreciate everyones's opinions and advise.

Well just be careful of the experiments and little extras you need to make it spray etc. Pretty easy to exceed $18 and not get what you want.

 

[TransAmMike]

You're most likely right there Dave.  I guess I'll live and learn and may or may not learn to regret it?

[StevenGuthmiller]

6 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Well I'm sure this doesn't "fly right" with a lot of you guys but I guess being on limited income I'm a cheapskate.  I can't see spending $18-26 for model paint when I feel like I can get at least "close enough".  Also, I am looking to do acrylic and and there is also the too much metallic to think about.

But I do appreciate everyones's opinions and advise.

A 2oz. jar of Scale Finishes "Saturn Gold" lacquer paint will cost you $9.99 not $18-26, and you're not going to have to guess and mix, and guess and mix, and still end up with a color that doesn't match your expectations, and 2oz. should be plenty to paint at least 2 complete models.

A lot depends on how scrupulous you are about the final color match.

Plus there's the fact that generally, acrylics are tougher to get a great finish with, at least in my experience.

 

I understand your desire to work with acrylics, but keep in mind that although acrylic paints are basically non-toxic when applied with a brush, it becomes an entirely different situation when atomized through an air brush.

Granted, a lacquer paint has a much stronger odor, but too often, because people are under the impression that acrylics are completely non-toxic, they mistakenly feel that they don't need to wear protection when spraying it.

If it's not air, it's not safe to breath, so whether you're spraying enamels, lacquers or acrylics, it's just as important to wear a respirator.

 

In a nutshell, if it's the smell that bothers you, by all means, use acrylics.

If you are worried about inhaling paint fumes, use a brush.

 

 

 

Steve

 

[Dave G.]

10 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

You're most likely right there Dave.  I guess I'll live and learn and may or may not learn to regret it?

OK.

[TransAmMike]

Well actually with shipping and tax $16.75 for the Scale Finishes basecoat, about a $1.00 more for enamel.   As I have said, my deal with acrylics is easy clean-up.

BUT NOW, after all this discussion you guys' know a heck of a lot more than I do, maybe I am leaning toward go for the Scale Finishes.  But should it be the enamel or basecoat??

And what about the amount of metallic because as I can remember the Saturn Gold on my former car was not a sparkly type metallic.  

And with basecoat, what clear?  Do I need theirs?

 

 

[TransAmMike]

Sorry Guy's, I feel like I have opened up an ugly can of worms here with this Createx thread.  It started with a general Createx question then evolved into a specific color issue then into a bit of a acrylic versus other medium as well as cost issue and so on.  I kinda feel like I'm being a bit of that pain in the behind about this.

And now I'm wavering to Scale Finishes because of the specific color and completely getting away from the intended discussion.

With that being said, I now have questions about using the Scale Finishes products so here goes.  Is the basecoat paint laquer or enamel and as I'm assuming it will need a clear topcoat.  Would I be better off using the enamel and not having to clear?    As I have previously said, I think the Krylon primer as I have used in the past seems to work real well.  Sould it be OK with either, or if the basecoat is laquer, I'm sure I would need a laquer primer.

Anyway, I do appreciate the advice.

 

[stinkybritches]

1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

Sorry Guy's, I feel like I have opened up an ugly can of worms here with this Createx thread.  It started with a general Createx question then evolved into a specific color issue then into a bit of a acrylic versus other medium as well as cost issue and so on.  I kinda feel like I'm being a bit of that pain in the behind about this.

 

The thread may have ultimately gone in a different direction than intended, but I feel that it generated a lot of useful information. 

[TransAmMike]

Well I'm glad something has come out of it.  Still need some Scale Finishes questions answered Guys.

[Dave G.]

The thread is full of tidbits, it's fine. You're trying to paint a car and the color is definitely a bit unique so things morphed..

The Scale finishes site has also changed offerings a bit . I'd like to hear from Steve about now but my personal choice as presented by your needs, products on hand and their offerings would have to go to enamel. Course your 1/1 was probably painted in single stage acrylic lacquer at the factory. FWIW.

Edit: SF metallic flecks were more in scale than 1/1 paint, finer flakes last I knew. I think you will be pleased.

Edited November 1, 2020 by Dave G.

[TransAmMike]

Well I did find the Scale Finishes link concerning application.  Both "basecoat" and "enamel" are acrylic enamel and of course the basecoat needs a clear coat. Their clear is acrylic enamel. I don't know what the difference is or why if both are acrylic enamel one needs a clear and the other doesn't.

[Dave G.]

9 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Well I did find the Scale Finishes link concerning application.  Both "basecoat" and "enamel" are acrylic enamel and of course the basecoat needs a clear coat. Their clear is acrylic enamel. I don't know what the difference is or why if both are acrylic enamel one needs a clear and the other doesn't.

All base coats I've ever dealt with even in 1/1 have been flat ( little to no shine), they level real well too. The clear is the gloss or produces the gloss.. Acrylic enamel top coat will be glossy and polished up will look much like acrylic lacquer. They have obviously changed their formulations.

I shot tons of acrylic enamel in 1/1 but can say never have on a model. I shot enamels of various sorts for 30 years in 1/1. You've got my curiosity up now, I wasn't expecting this.

Edited November 1, 2020 by Dave G.

[TransAmMike]

Just curious Dave, what is your choice of paint?

[Dave G.]

3 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Just curious Dave, what is your choice of paint?

I use many different paints and brands and types these days. Over the years I probably shot enamels most because of the old classic cars I like to build. I mix many of my own solid colors, these days I use acrylics as well as enamel. sometimes lacquer or nail polish..Scale finishes came up for me for a 49 Ford wine and 49-50 Ford teal I didn't think I could get right. But I don't think I want those in acrylic enamel now. Last I knew they were mixing lacquer ( my bad there). Your gold should be fine though for that era car. Heck I might even have shot one that color in 1/1 in acrylic enamel back in the day. I sure used enough of it.

[TransAmMike]

OK Dave thanks.  So no real preference huh.  I'm now kind of leaning towards the Scale Finishes acrylic enamel mostly because of (1)the hopefully color match and (2) not needing to clear. What I don't care for is the deep or heavy look of the clear over the color. Just doesn't look realistic on models to me.

[gman]

7 hours ago, stinkybritches said:

The thread may have ultimately gone in a different direction than intended, but I feel that it generated a lot of useful information. 

As do I. I have been wondering about Createx's different lines, and as members here who have used it on their builds can attest, I have questions too that they have kindly answered. Information is good, and I am grateful for those who share it.

I usually build non-showroom stock- "day 2," custom, or stock-ish, so unless a specific dead to nuts OEM color is called for I have some flexibility with the paint color. I too plan to order some exact match OEM paints for some builds I have in mind, but a happy accidental color match from something readily available is always a good thing.

[StevenGuthmiller]

7 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Well I did find the Scale Finishes link concerning application.  Both "basecoat" and "enamel" are acrylic enamel and of course the basecoat needs a clear coat. Their clear is acrylic enamel. I don't know what the difference is or why if both are acrylic enamel one needs a clear and the other doesn't.

I'm not sure about what the formulation of the paint is, but I have always been of the impression that the "Base coat" paints were "acrylic lacquers".

Regardless of what they are made of, the base coat has the same basic qualities of an automotive paint.

They spray on extremely well and very thin, dry almost instantly, and do require a clear coat.

I have only used the enamel engine paint that they offer, and it worked well, but I have had peers who have used the enamels tell me that they take a very long time to dry, or cure.

As a matter of fact, about a year ago, I had a very respected fellow builder offer me several bottles of Scale Finishes enamel for free, because he said that he won't use it again because of drying issues.

 

Just something to think about.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

As far as the size of metallic particles in Scale Finishes paint is concerned, my assertion would be that it's not quite s good as MCW, but better than most automotive or hobby paints.

Both of these models wear Scale Finishes "base coat" paints with Duplicolor acrylic lacquer clear coat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Dave G.]

9 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

OK Dave thanks.  So no real preference huh.  I'm now kind of leaning towards the Scale Finishes acrylic enamel mostly because of (1)the hopefully color match and (2) not needing to clear. What I don't care for is the deep or heavy look of the clear over the color. Just doesn't look realistic on models to me.

I wouldn't go by everyone elses rendition or what most seem to seek at least here of a clear finish that you see here often. Most are after that wet look that back in the 1960's and 1970's we didn't know could even exist yet . Yet many modelers seem to demand just that. I mean paint dried lol !! It didn't still look wet. Even polished to arguably some very rich depth it still didn't look wet. But with practice you can shoot clear and polish to your liking, you don't have to seek that wet look even from clear. GM didn't spend time polishing factory paint. A dealer might, owners might have, but really the acrylic lacquer used on cars at GM wasn't that glossy without some post factory help.

A decent clear job doesn't have to look buried in clear and wet looking. It's about thinning, application and polishing. And you don't need or even want 2K clear to get what you're after. It can be done with lacquer, Pledge/Future or Tamiya X-22. And you need to be willing to polish to the desired level. And you don't  need Scale Finishes base coat to get started practicing this.

 

[TransAmMike]

According to Scale Finishes web site both basecoat and enamel are acrylic enamel.  True about the "wet look".  It looks great in terms of shine but just doesn't look realistic, especially on a more stock appearing car.  I would say for a customized show car its almost a necessity tho. Just my 1cent worth (2 cents would be a stretch LOL!).

So now that my old 74 y.o. brain is scattered, I don't really know what to do.  ??

[Dave G.]

3 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

According to Scale Finishes web site both basecoat and enamel are acrylic enamel.  True about the "wet look".  It looks great in terms of shine but just doesn't look realistic, especially on a more stock appearing car.  I would say for a customized show car its almost a necessity tho. Just my 1cent worth (2 cents would be a stretch LOL!).

So now that my old 74 y.o. brain is scattered, I don't really know what to do.  ??

I'm right behind you at 70. The other day I shut my car off, took my glasses off and put them down. Temporarily got confused to grab my mask or the keys, wait a minute what keys ? Oh ya the ones in the ignition. This used to happen in one fell swoop, now it's something that takes thought. Oh boy !

Let me throw another bone in the works: Contact MCW via email or phone call and see if they will mix your color, if so order lacquer. They don't list it but that doesn't mean they won't mix it ( what they do is add to their list as people request a mix). And it's $7.50 a bottle for acrylic lacquer which is what your car was painted in originally.. Maybe this will help: 

Also here:

 

Edited November 2, 2020 by Dave G.

[bluenote]

I have used Scalefinishes (basecoat) and I loved it!  I used Ford Silver Blue metallic on my 1/16 AMT 1965 Mustang and it turned out great!  Very easy to spray.  Metallic looked in scale.

I used Tamiya Primer and Scalesfinishes Gloss Coat (I'll probably just use Tamiya's gloss next time).

I'm just finishing up a Hulk model, then on to the Millenium Falcon, but I can't wait for my next car model so I can choose the factory color from Scalefinishes!  It really is fun picking a factory colour and getting that exact colour any time you want.

 

[TransAmMike]

And another thanks to you Guys, a lot to consider?

[Dave G.]

2 hours ago, bluenote said:

I have used Scalefinishes (basecoat) and I loved it!  I used Ford Silver Blue metallic on my 1/16 AMT 1965 Mustang and it turned out great!  Very easy to spray.  Metallic looked in scale.

I used Tamiya Primer and Scalesfinishes Gloss Coat (I'll probably just use Tamiya's gloss next time).

I'm just finishing up a Hulk model, then on to the Millenium Falcon, but I can't wait for my next car model so I can choose the factory color from Scalefinishes!  It really is fun picking a factory colour and getting that exact colour any time you want.

 

I have Washington Blue lacquer coming for my 1/16 Model A roadster body and hood. From MCW that is. The fenders though will be black Tamiya acrylic, I've already done the workup for them and it will pass fine.. The wheel paint I mixed up myself and they're already shot. I forget the name of that color off hand but it's a cream/yellow..

Edited November 2, 2020 by Dave G.