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De Foosing the FD-100


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On 12/17/2020 at 4:42 PM, crazyjim said:

Looking good.

Thanks for the feed back Jim.  Sorry I am so late with a response. I have a daughter living in Tampa so perhaps I can connect with your club sometime when I am in the neighborhood. 

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On 12/2/2020 at 6:01 PM, butter said:

 BTW the windshield, and window trim was made from aluminum bead wire flattened a bit by rolling an Exacto knife handle over it. The idea is that when I get ready to put the final coats of paint on, I will file\sand the aluminum down until it is slightly above the body lines around it,  When I polish the paint I hope to have polished "stainless" trim as well.  Time will tell if this will work.

Really nice build you’ve got going here Ron!  I love the hood hinges, and the bed strips!  Also, great job on the window trim.  I finished a build last year on which I did exactly that, except I used 20ga silver wire instead of aluminum because I thought it would polish up nicer, and it can also be soldered if necessary.  After the first coat of clear, I lightly sanded the trim to expose it, and polished it before the final two coats of clear.

image.jpeg

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1 hour ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Superb job on these functional hinges Ron!   This is something I want to do for my pickup so you sowed a seed... Amazing build sir, you have great skills!

Thanks Francis. I was pretty happy with the way they came out. Everything needs to be pulled apart and cleaned up. I am keeping tabs on your absolutely fabulous build and enjoying every bit of it.

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27 minutes ago, foghorn62 said:

Really nice build you’ve got going here Ron!  I love the hood hinges, and the bed strips!  Also, great job on the window trim.  I finished a build last year on which I did exactly that, except I used 20ga silver wire instead of aluminum because I thought it would polish up nicer, and it can also be soldered if necessary.  After the first coat of clear, I lightly sanded the trim to expose it, and polished it before the final two coats of clear.

image.jpeg

Thanks Tim for sharing your pic of the steal trim. I hope mine works out like yours did. Yours looks awesome. Never thought about silver wire. 

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  • 5 weeks later...


I roughed together some A arms for the Heidts front end from paper clips, aluminum tubing and plastic. The first pic is a top view of the upper A arm from my 1:1 truck I used to model the uppers.  I primered a couple of them to make sure they will look ok. 

To make all that stuff stick together I use a mixture of super glue gel and Testors liquid cement. 80 to 90% super glue, the rest Testors.  This lets me move the parts around for a moment before the super glue sets. I use this glue for about everything (plastic to plastic, plastic to metal and metal to metal) because it is easy to use and holds like iron.  The body of the 56 panel I show earlier in this thread was glued together and painted over 20 years ago and as you can see from the pics all the cuts for the chopping and sectioning still do not show.

upper a arm actual.jpg

a_arms.jpg

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6 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

The A arms look good Ron!  Good tip for the glue, it deserve a try... a guy never has too many tricks up his sleeve!  ?

Thanks for the feedback Francis. Your comments are always appreciated! The lower A arms are not correct so I am rebuilding. I will update when I get the whole front suspension roughed together.

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Just found this thread and I am in awe of the skills you display by designing , fabricating and detailing your parts.  if I could ask a question, when you are making something as multi dimensional as your windshield frame with the beading wire, how do you avoid getting the inevitable kinks somewhere along the way, and is there a trick to getting each curve the same radius as its opposite counterpart?  I enjoy working at the level you are here but often am disappointed or frustrated by trying to get that sort of detail perfect.

Also, I just started work on a pair of 28/29 model A phaetons, one in 1/24th and one in 1/25th.  When I saw your name a dim lightbulb went off that makes me think you once built a dark green showroom stock version of this car, maybe it was in a contest annual?   Was that you?

Cheers

Alan

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3 hours ago, alan barton said:

Just found this thread and I am in awe of the skills you display by designing , fabricating and detailing your parts.  if I could ask a question, when you are making something as multi dimensional as your windshield frame with the beading wire, how do you avoid getting the inevitable kinks somewhere along the way, and is there a trick to getting each curve the same radius as its opposite counterpart?  I enjoy working at the level you are here but often am disappointed or frustrated by trying to get that sort of detail perfect.

Also, I just started work on a pair of 28/29 model A phaetons, one in 1/24th and one in 1/25th.  When I saw your name a dim lightbulb went off that makes me think you once built a dark green showroom stock version of this car, maybe it was in a contest annual?   Was that you?

Cheers

Alan

Thanks for the kind words Alan.  I am the same person who built the Phaeton that was in the contest annual.  That was truly a great honor.  You have a great memory. That was like 20 years ago.

As for the windshield frame, I used aluminum bead wire that doesn't kink.  Getting the radiuses to match is a tribute to Revell.  I left enough of the molded in frame so I could just follow along. Also Revell did a fabulous job with the fit of the windshield and rear window that I didn't want to loose that fit.  The pics in the thread are my second or third swing at it. 

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  • 1 month later...

Got some frame work done.  Used Ertl 53 F100 frame as a starting point.  Built a channel for the middle of the frame rails because the real truck frame is only boxed around the front and rear end. Corrected the frame cross members. Added front body mounts and running board braces. Scratch built Heidts Mustang II front suspension and 4 LInk rear suspension. Rear coil overs are modified R-D Unique coil overs to represent the adjustable coil overs on my truck.

Next up I will work on building door hinges, building inner front cab corners, permanently installing the floor and trying to figure out how to fit the dash up to the wind shield without it looking stupid.

All comments and constructive criticism is welcome and encouraged.

frame 3.jpg

frame 4.jpg

frame 5.jpg

frame 6.jpg

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Good progress Ron!  Obviously it's a good idea to do all the work inside the cab before the floor is permanently glued and I usually (all the time actually) glue the windshield before painting.  It is easy to cover it with masking tape at this step and it is also easy to remove it after the paint is done when it is of good quality (I only use Tamiya tape).  I make my own glass with 0.010'' clear styrene and I embed them in the body by making a notch all around its seat, it gives an even more in scale look when it's done well.  On the other hand, not all types of windshields are easy to make and a curved one like on your truck is not easy to do!

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2 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Good progress Ron!  Obviously it's a good idea to do all the work inside the cab before the floor is permanently glued and I usually (all the time actually) glue the windshield before painting.  It is easy to cover it with masking tape at this step and it is also easy to remove it after the paint is done when it is of good quality (I only use Tamiya tape).  I make my own glass with 0.010'' clear styrene and I embed them in the body by making a notch all around its seat, it gives an even more in scale look when it's done well.  On the other hand, not all types of windshields are easy to make and a curved one like on your truck is not easy to do!

Hi Francis.  

Thanks for your continued interest and support!   You are absolutely correct about the windshield.  I did the panel truck windshield that is posted earlier in this thread as you describe. I am more concerned about doing the rear window with clear styrene because of the severe curve on the edges. Also, doing the windshield with clear styrene actually makes fitting the dash easier.  We will see how it goes. That is where I am heading next on this project.

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  • 2 months later...
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5 hours ago, Zippi said:

The 56 Ford pickup is looking pretty sharp.  Love that deep rich looking paint job.  

Hi Bob. Thanks for looking! The color is left over from my 1:1 F-100.  It's a late model Chevy pickup color shot over a black base. I have a few pics of my 1:1 truck before it was finished earlier in this thread. I see your posts all over this forum.  I think I remember seeing some of your work.  Refresh my memory so I can take a look.

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