‘37 Ford Pickup chop and channel

[NOBLNG]

This is my third chop, and I’ve got it mostly done. I haven’t done any channeling, but have done a fair bit of research on here and YT. My main question is…is there any preference for using the stock frame vs swapping it for one from the Revell ‘29 model A? I want to use a newer V8 and auto, so I would likely have to cut most of the x frame out of the original frame anyway. Thoughts one way or the other appreciated! ? 

Edit: I am currently watching this series on YT. He is doing just about what I want to.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OnSaiEsYrs

 

Edited January 28, 2022 by NOBLNG

[Ace-Garageguy]

"My main question is…is there any preference for using the stock frame vs swapping it for one from the Revell ‘29 model A?"

In reality what you propose would never even be considered.

The wheelbase of the earlier frame is much shorter (106" for a '32...the wheelbase on the Revell '29 chassis too...vs. 112" for the '35-'40-'41) and it's designed for a much lighter vehicle.

'35-'40 Ford car and '35-'41 pickup chassis are all pretty much identical, so not too terribly hard to find.

I'd recommend you build it like you'd do a real one...modify the '37 frame as required to accept the later go-parts.

Edited January 28, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy

[NOBLNG]

So…If I found the stock frame required too much modification ( I plan to alter the wheelbase anyway)… building a custom one from rectangular tubing would be preferable to using the ‘29 frame correct? Please forgive my ignorance on how things would or should be done in the 1:1 world. 

Edited January 28, 2022 by NOBLNG

[Ace-Garageguy]

3 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

So…If I found the stock frame required too much modification ( I plan to alter the wheelbase anyway)… building a custom one from rectangular tubing would be preferable to using the ‘29 frame correct? Please forgive my ignorance on how things would or should be done in the 1:1 world. 

Yes, rectangular tubing would be considerably preferable to using an old, light, un-boxed frame.

Though both the frames in the Revell '28 kits kinda represent boxed units due to molding limitations, the skinnier model A frame is just too light IMHO, and modifying the other one, the '32 frame, will take a lot of work to make it fit well.

And...modifying that original X-member is FAR less work than building a frame up from scratch, and it has the added benefit of being the right shape to start with.

[NOBLNG]

Ok, Thanks Bill. I’ll start hacking and see where it takes me. ?

[Ace-Garageguy]

18 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

Ok, Thanks Bill. I’ll start hacking and see where it takes me. ?

I started putting a SB Chebby and a big ZF 6-speed in one eons ago.

Easiest way is to remove the forward legs of the X, cut the transverse side members free from the chassis rails and shorten them enough to allow the rear legs of the X to spread enough to clear the gearbox, then make a simple support for the trans under it.

Then you can piece the front legs of the X back in if you want to. Presto-chango.   

Edited January 28, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy
TYPO

[bill-e-boy]

One of the methods on the real trucks and cars is to cut the centre of the x-frame and rebuild it with channels parallel alongside the transmission with a new trans mount

[Plowboy]

This was a stock '37 chassis. At the rear, I cut the cross member loose, boxed the ends and glued it on top of the frame. Up front, I made what I call bull horns just behind the cross member. It has both the stock front and rearends.

As you can see, it sets really low. The engine is the Hemi from the '53 F-100.

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

6 minutes ago, Plowboy said:

This was a stock '37 chassis. At the rear, I cut the cross member loose, boxed the ends and glued it on top of the frame. Up front, I made what I call bull horns just behind the cross member. It has both the stock front and rearends...

This is definitely a better way to get one of these down in the weeds than doing a radical channel job. More of the headroom remains, so the little 1/25 scale munchkins can drive more comfortably.   

[NOBLNG]

13 hours ago, Plowboy said:

This was a stock '37 chassis. At the rear, I cut the cross member loose, boxed the ends and glued it on top of the frame. Up front, I made what I call bull horns just behind the cross member. It has both the stock front and rearends.

As you can see, it sets really low. The engine is the Hemi from the '53 F-100.

That is about the stance that I want, so I might just copy what you’ve done….hope ya don’t mind!?

12 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

This is definitely a better way to get one of these down in the weeds than doing a radical channel job. More of the headroom remains, so the little 1/25 scale munchkins can drive more comfortably.   

Sounds like an easier way I hope. I did take your advice regarding spreading the x frame on this one. I took one completely out of a ‘36 ford coupe and am having a heck of a time getting it back in.?

Edited January 30, 2022 by NOBLNG

[Ace-Garageguy]

5 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

 

...I did take your advice regarding spreading the x frame. I took one completely out of a ‘36 ford coupe and am having a heck of a time getting it back in.

 

LOOKS PERFECT!   

[chris chabre]

Im going to be doing a 37 bobber style pick up here eventually. I agree with Bill. In the real world, an earlier frame wouldnt be used. Your current frame looks like a good start

[Plowboy]

Just a suggestion. But, if you're going with an engine that modern, I would use the chassis from a Monogram '37 coupe or convertible. It has independent suspension front and rear. 

[NOBLNG]

7 hours ago, Plowboy said:

Just a suggestion. But, if you're going with an engine that modern, I would use the chassis from a Monogram '37 coupe or convertible. It has independent suspension front and rear. 

I have these two that are 1/24 scale that have independent suspension. I haven’t compared frame sizes yet to see if the entire frame is OK size wise. If it is….would it be acceptable in the real world to use the car frame for a street rod type truck? I realize as a fantasy vehicle, anything goes, but I would like to keep things in the realm of possibility. Thanks in advance for any input!?

Edit: I also have an early Bronco that I could steal the 289 out of for this ‘37 pickup and put the 4.6 in the Bronco.?

 

Edited January 30, 2022 by NOBLNG

[Ace-Garageguy]

1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

….would it be acceptable in the real world to use the car frame for a street rod type truck?

I posted this above: "'35-'40 Ford car and '35-'41 pickup chassis are all pretty much identical."

To clarify...all those light truck and car frames are the same except for minor details.

Car frames in those years are the same as light truck frames.

So yes, you can use a car frame under a pickup (I've done it in reality when the original truck frame was too rusty and weak to bother with repairing...everything  bolts on).

And the supposed 1/24 car frames above fit the supposed 1/25 truck just fine.

EDIT: And just FYI, those frames fit under AMT '36 and '40 Fords too.

Edited January 30, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy

[NOBLNG]

3 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

I posted this above: "'35-'40 Ford car and '35-'41 pickup chassis are all pretty much identical."

To clarify...all those light truck and car frames are the same except for minor details.

Car frames in those years are the same as light truck frames.

So yes, you can use a car frame under a pickup (I've done it in reality when the original truck frame was too rusty and weak to bother with repairing...everything  bolts on).

And the supposed 1/24 car frames above fit the supposed 1/25 truck just fine.

EDIT: And just FYI, those frames fit under AMT '36 and '40 Fords too.

Thanks again Bill. You are correct of course.? I didn’t realize that I had these kits at that point. The two 1/24 kits in my pic above are completely identical and are indeed very similar to the 1/25 scale truck frame. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

10 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

...I didn’t realize that I had these kits at that point. The two 1/24 kits in my pic above are completely identical and are indeed very similar to the 1/25 scale truck frame. 

You may, of course, have to do some minor fitting and juggling to get everything dialed in dead-on, but that's just part of the game.

It's been several years since I worked on my chopped '38 conversion (based on the '37 truck), but I tried the '37 car frames under it, looking for alternatives as you are, and was kinda surprised how close and doable they would swap...especially considering the supposed scale difference. Sometimes the less-than-perfect scaling manufacturers give us works to our advantage.  

At the time, I also had an AMT chopped '36 ford on the bench, and I'd already tried the Revellogram '37 car frames under it, found they'd fit, and had mocked everything up in final position with the non-independent-suspension version. The point of using the Revellogram frame under the AMT body was to get a better represented X-member and some other particulars for a highly detailed replica of a specific car, a gift for a friend. It worked out very well, but I don't remember in detail exactly what mods had to be made.

What you're doing looks great so far, and I certainly applaud your effort and thought in wanting to build a model that represents reality. 

[NOBLNG]

I am also slowly working on an AMT ‘36 Ford coupe. The 1/24th scale frames are exactly the same width and only slightly longer, so I may well swap that one out too.? 

[BadJuju]

NOBLNG - I just bought the 2022 reissue kit.  I'd like to channel, and maybe chop, it.  I'd also like it to be a highboy.  Have you started with Tue channeling yet?

-Bad Juju 

[NOBLNG]

On 6/3/2022 at 10:23 PM, BadJuju said:

NOBLNG - I just bought the 2022 reissue kit.  I'd like to channel, and maybe chop, it.  I'd also like it to be a highboy.  Have you started with Tue channeling yet?

-Bad Juju 

No. That one is back on the shelf for now. I don’t think I will wind up channeling it.?
Edit: Yes, I will be channeling it when I get back to it. For some reason I was thinking of sectioning.? I was thinking of doing that originally, but  I won’t be doing it now.

Edited June 5, 2022 by NOBLNG

[Plowboy]

I wish I would have thought of the '37 chassis when I built this model.  

I've been wanting to update for a while. I'm thinking that I can just do a simple chassis, drivetrain, wheel / tire swap and have an instant update. It currently has the '36 chassis that I removed all of the molded in detail from.

I'm going to have to do some checking. My only concern is the wheelbase. There may be a bit of difference with the scales being different. But, it shouldn't be much at all.

 

[BadJuju]

Thanks for letting me know!

[Ace-Garageguy]

30 minutes ago, Plowboy said:

...I'm going to have to do some checking. My only concern is the wheelbase. There may be a bit of difference with the scales being different. But, it shouldn't be much at all.

It's minimal, if at all.

I've already put one under an AMT '36, and had it up on its wheels to work on the stance.

that was many years back, I don't recall specifics, but I DO recall it wasn't a big deal...especially to someone with your skills.

EDIT: Great looking pickup, by the way.    

Edited June 4, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy

[Mark]

If you are really into these styles of rods, think about picking up a book or two on constructing a 1:1 version.  Vern Tardel, Tex Smith, Pete & Jake's, and So-Cal Speed Shop all did books explaining chassis building, and with plenty of pictures of examples of their work.  I'm never going to build a 1:1 rod, but it's nice to know where things go and how they work, so your model build is realistic in that a full size one would be functional.  I went to a swap meet at the beginning of May...bought one book, and grabbed a Tex Smith book on "fat fender" rod construction off of a "free pile".  Old Speedway, Bob Drake, and So-Cal catalogs are worth grabbing too...often free or nearly so.

[Plowboy]

59 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

It's minimal, if at all.

I've already put one under an AMT '36, and had it up on its wheels to work on the stance.

that was many years back, I don't recall specifics, but I DO recall it wasn't a big deal...especially to someone with your skills.

EDIT: Great looking pickup, by the way.    

Thanx! It's one of very few that turned out better than I expected. That's why I want to make it better.