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1966 Mercury Comet


MarkJ

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Pierre and Mark, you both have serious skills. If you have ever seen Doug Wythe's 69 Charger Daytona, he used your method Pierre and on Randy Dearrs beautiful Andretti Fairlane he used Marks way. So neither is right or wrong. I would put you guys skills right there with these folks. It takes a lot of patience to do what you both do. Keep up the good work, keep taking pics and keep letting me steal you guys ideas. And for goodness sakes don't stop modeling. 

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I just need to smooth the areas around the headlights and maybe install some small .020 rods along the top and bottom of the center panel that runs between the upper and lower grilles. Looks like there was something like that before the front end damage that happened during the race. After that I will sand the whole body and prime it. then I will do the three tone paint job. I bought some liquid mask I want to try to hopefully get a sharper line between the different colors of paint. Aircraft guys use it when doing camouflage paint jobs, and it appears to do a good job. Apparently you just peel it off when you're through painting.

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Mark I'm not the most computer  savvy person in the world so finding links  may not be my best bet. Both have appeared in issues of the old Scale Auto mag (let me look at home to see what Issues)  and I believe Randy does some of the work shown in Bill Coulters book  "Building and Detailing Stock Cars"  Randy has also taken the 1/12 scale Revell Camaro and turned it into the Mark Donahue/Roger Penske Trans Am racer. If you haven't seen it, it is something Special. Maybe a couple of days until I get back to you. Tonight is my wife and I's 25th Anniversary so we may do a little night on the town. Might even stay out until 10:00

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1 hour ago, james220 said:

Mark I'm not the most computer  savvy person in the world so finding links  may not be my best bet. Both have appeared in issues of the old Scale Auto mag (let me look at home to see what Issues)  and I believe Randy does some of the work shown in Bill Coulters book  "Building and Detailing Stock Cars"  Randy has also taken the 1/12 scale Revell Camaro and turned it into the Mark Donahue/Roger Penske Trans Am racer. If you haven't seen it, it is something Special. Maybe a couple of days until I get back to you. Tonight is my wife and I's 25th Anniversary so we may do a little night on the town. Might even stay out until 10:00

Sounds good, James. Have a great evening. 25 years is very special. Our fiftieth is coming up in 2023.  If the Lord is willing and i'm still here.

 

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4 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Mark, the body looks very, very good. I look forward to learn from the work you do with the liquid mask. I've never tried it so I am quite intrigued.

Red, black and white. Is there a better color combo out there? Don't think so.

Thanks, Pierre. Yes I am hoping the liquid mask works out for me.  I am always masked challenged when it come to masking tape. I can never get a crisp line between the colors. I'm hoping the liquid mask adheres better then the tape and it peels off leaving a nice concise line between the colors. And none of the paint sneaks under the mask like it does with tape. We shall see. 

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Thanks, Jason. I was able to find these too. For a museum car its mostly correct. I think they got the color too dark 

for the red on the body and the wheels at the Southern 500 were white, not silver. The upper and lower grilles are not correct either. They used stock comet grilles instead of the Cyclone grilles. My grilles won't be correct either,. But they will be close enough for government work. My dad used to love to say that all the time. He worked for the Federal government.

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Got the first primer session done. I need to block sand and see if I can remove any voids that I missed with the first sanding. The primer brings out the faults you didn't know that you have. I will use a scribe on the trunk and door seams so they don't go away from the primer sessions I might have to use.  A primer session is when you mix some primer in the pallet and keep going around the model till you use up what you have prepared. A session lasts until you get the opacity you need to do the block sanding.  I did about 5 of these in the first primer session. it shouldn't take as many in the second session. This Vallejo primer is very thin when it is thinned out and not very opaque when applied. that is what makes you have to keep filling the pallet chamber until you feel the session is over. If the body was white, I'm sure the session would not take as long. This body is gray. I need a white primer surface to paint the white roof, or it will turn out looking light gray.

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Thanks, Bill. I'm kinda turning a 67 into a 66. Don't look too closely after its finished. There are a couple of things that are way off, but i'm not telling anybody what they are. It's still going to look more like a 66 then a 67 and my chances of getting a 66 kit was zero. I'm trying to build as many Southern 500 winners as I can. Especially from the fifty's and sixty's. So far I have the 54,55,56,57,58,59,63, and this will be the 66 winner. I have the kits to do the 64 winner but it will be one of these cut and paste cars. 

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Great build so far Mark, the bodywork looks very convincing !

I enjoy builds like this, lots of hints and tips !

Sure you know this tip, but for straight line masking i use bare metal foil.  I doesn't tend to let paint leak underneath like masking tape , works well for me anyway !

Good luck I'll be following along !

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1 hour ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Looking good so far. Vallejo primer needs a few coats to build up but I find it helps see the small  blemishes needing a bit of fixing.

What sort of tool do you use fro scribing panel lines?

Thanks, Pierre. I bought it some where . It looks like a pencil with a metal tip. you can also use the back side of a number eleven exacto blade, I have decided to use the gray vallejo primer for the red and black areas. It seems to cover better then the white. The Vallejo primer is very hard to sand compared to the aerosol Tamiya primers. But I am staying true to brush painting everything. I really dislike aerosol cans and I am really not fond of airbrushes. Cleaning them is not fun and neither is using them.

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25 minutes ago, Lowlife ! ! said:

 

Great build so far Mark, the bodywork looks very convincing !

I enjoy builds like this, lots of hints and tips !

Sure you know this tip, but for straight line masking i use bare metal foil.  I doesn't tend to let paint leak underneath like masking tape , works well for me anyway !

Good luck I'll be following along !

Thanks Martin . I'm not really fond of bare metal foil anymore. It doesn't adhere very well to do the job it was intended for, much less masking. And its kinda expensive as a masking tape. Its just not the same product it used to be. And of course that's just my humble opinion. 

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Painted the side with Vallejo crimson red. It's a little to orangee red so I will go back and mix a little light blue in it to cool it down to a more cherry red. 

I figured I would paint the sides red and the roof white first then liquid mask and paint the black middle portions last and see what happens. Then the fun part, polishing. Which I really dislike immensely.

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My attempts to get the Vallejo red the right shade failed, so I will use Creatix bright red instead. I also have some Creatix black and white so i will use those too. The Creatix paint went on pretty good with a brush so I'm hoping it will polish out well too.

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I will let you know how good the liquid mask works tomorrow. If not, I have a lot of work ahead of me fixing this. The liquid mask dries clear so you can't really see it in these pictures. I just hope it comes off easy.

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Edited by MarkJ
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