TinkerCad? Do you use it or other free 3D?

[Oldmopars]

So, I feel that to further my modeling skills and end products, I need to get into 3D printing of parts. I know that many use TinkerCad. However I have tried using it and I am finding that it is very simple, but to modify existing shapes is not really possible, at least that I have found. There seems to be a lack of tools to edit existing shapes.

I would like to put a chamfer on the edge of a box shape, or array shapes around a round object. Maybe I need to learn more? Is there a way to do this or do I need to look for another better 3D Cad program?

[Oldmopars]

Well, with more goofing off I have figured a few things out. There are absurd ways to go about getting what you want. I found that using shapes to create negative tools that are then used to remove unwanted parts is the way to go. So, if you want a campfer, you create a negative of what you want and then use that the "Cut" off parts of the drawing. Not the best way to do things, but at least I have a means to get where I want to go.

I played a bit and made a simple fuel tank and a Luberfiner. Next is to see if I can made a wheel.

For me, this is a required step. If I can learn to use this software and make parts, then I can justify spending the money on a 3D resin printer.  If I can't create anything, a printer is useless. So, I am on the road in the right direction anyway.

Anyone know how to array something like a tread of a tire?

 

[Oldmopars]

A better view of the filter.

[peteski]

How about creating a small segment of the tire (like a segment of an orange), then duplicating it while rotating it around the center of the tire?

Edited March 2, 2022 by peteski

[PHPaul]

I use it exclusively.  I tried Fusion 360 but it's WAAAAAY overkill and the learning "curve" is pretty much vertical.

You're on the right track, use basic shapes and then negative shapes to remove anything that doesn't look like your final product.  

Tip #1:  When working with cylinders, set sides to max - usually 64.  That'll smooth out the segmented effect in your filter.

Tip #2:  There are libraries of premade shapes that include several types of tires that can be resized for what you're looking for.

Tip #3:  The "duplicate/copy" command is quite powerful.  Select an object, click duplicate, move it to where you want (up/down, left/right or angular) and when you hit duplicate again it will create a third object, moving in the same direction as the first copy.  For instance, you can create "X" number of objects in a circle for a bolt pattern.  This is a round-about way to create the array you're looking for.

Tip #4:  Use the "radius" command to create bevels or radii on the edges of objects.  Looks like you know that looking at your fuel tank, but it works on most shapes and you can create some pretty interesting shapes that way.

Edited March 2, 2022 by PHPaul

[Oldmopars]

25 minutes ago, PHPaul said:

I use it exclusively.  I tried Fusion 360 but it's WAAAAAY overkill and the learning "curve" is pretty much vertical.

You're on the right track, use basic shapes and then negative shapes to remove anything that doesn't look like your final product.  

Tip #1:  When working with cylinders, set sides to max - usually 64.  That'll smooth out the segmented effect in your filter.

Tip #2:  There are libraries of premade shapes that include several types of tires that can be resized for what you're looking for.

Tip #3:  The "duplicate/copy" command is quite powerful.  Select an object, click duplicate, move it to where you want (up/down, left/right or angular) and when you hit duplicate again it will create a third object, moving in the same direction as the first copy.  For instance, you can create "X" number of objects in a circle for a bolt pattern.  This is a round-about way to create the array you're looking for.

Tip #4:  Use the "radius" command to create bevels or radii on the edges of objects.  Looks like you know that looking at your fuel tank, but it works on most shapes and you can create some pretty interesting shapes that way.

Where is the radius command?

[PHPaul]

It's not a separate command as such.

1.  Create object.

2.  Duplicate it, offset it to the diameter you want, (that can be changed when all duplicates have been created) and group the two objects.

3.  Select the two objects, select duplicate, and rotate them around each other.  60° will create an array of 6 objects.

4.  First duplication.

5.  Second duplication.  Then you can select the left/right and top/bottom dimensions to resize the diameter if needed.

[PHPaul]

I may have misunderstood your question.

The "radius" command is in the pull-down box for the object.  Basically, it rounds the corners

[PHPaul]

Another tip:  If you print the filter in the orientation shown, it will require supports.  That works fine, but requires a lot of trimming/dressing when removing from the printer.

If you rotate it 90° and use the "drop" (D on your keyboard) command to set it back down on the print bed it puts the long surface on the bed and requires fewer (if any) supports and will make it easier to clean up.  Basically, the more surface you have contacting the print bed, the better.

[Oldmopars]

Well I am sure I went about this the hard way, all part of learning, but I did create a "tire" of sorts. I will play with it a bit more, but it at least looks like a tire.

As for the radius, I did know about that, however sometimes I want to only radius one side or 3 sides, not all the sides at once. I wish there was a radius command to do just one side. But I will learn to work with it. It just takes learning how to work within its limits.

 

[Oldmopars]

20 minutes ago, PHPaul said:

Another tip:  If you print the filter in the orientation shown, it will require supports.  That works fine, but requires a lot of trimming/dressing when removing from the printer.

If you rotate it 90° and use the "drop" (D on your keyboard) command to set it back down on the print bed it puts the long surface on the bed and requires fewer (if any) supports and will make it easier to clean up.  Basically, the more surface you have contacting the print bed, the better.

Great tip. At this point I have no need for any of these items and they will not be printed, for now. They were just items I though would be fun to try to make. I will remember that as it will help in the future when I do want to print them. BTW, Thanks for the help. I'm getting excited that I may be able to really create something. As you, I tried the "Professional" versions and they are so complex there was no way for me to learn in the limited time I have. I would need to go to a class at the local Community College.

[PHPaul]

VERY nice!  

How did you create the tread pattern?

[PHPaul]

I've looked into resin printers and they're still a bit beyond my budget, especially when considering supplies.

Print orientation and support structures are much more complex too, as far as I can see.

At the moment, I'm happy with my PLA printer.  The results are adequate and sometimes surprisingly nice, and the printer and supplies are very reasonable.

[Oldmopars]

2 minutes ago, PHPaul said:

VERY nice!  

How did you create the tread pattern?

I created the first block, then added the second, rotating into position, then the same for the third block to create one zig-zag. I then copied it, rotated it to match the radius of the "tire", I did this till I had about 1/4 of the tread. I then grouped it. I then grouped the tread already on the tire to the tire. Pasted the copied tread  and rotated the tire till it matched up. I repeated this all the way around the tread. There was some unevenness at the sides, so I made a negative box at the side till it cut off the uneven tread. Both sides. Then to give the tread a roundness that matched the circumference of the tires, I used the cone with the hole in it, lined it up and reduced the inner diameter of the "Hole till it shaved off the sharp points of the tread. 

Like I said, once I get my head around how this program work, I think I can make it do what I want, it is just a very strange way of doing things.

BTW, the tread did not line up perfectly, there is a point that there is a slight overlap of the tread pattern, I just rotated that to the bottom and if I were to really print it, I would make a flat spot there that would force it to be the bottom anyway.

[my66s55]

36 minutes ago, Oldmopars said:

Great tip. At this point I have no need for any of these items and they will not be printed, for now. They were just items I though would be fun to try to make. I will remember that as it will help in the future when I do want to print them. BTW, Thanks for the help. I'm getting excited that I may be able to really create something. As you, I tried the "Professional" versions and they are so complex there was no way for me to learn in the limited time I have. I would need to go to a class at the local Community College.

Do not tip to 90 degrees. Go to the Official 3d Printing Discussion Thread in General Automotive Talk(Trucks and Cars) and watch the video I posted on slanting parts for best print. Putting the parts flat lead to other problems. I have been using Blender to create and modify files since 2013 and 3d resin printing since December 25, 2015. 

[PHPaul]

32 minutes ago, my66s55 said:

Do not tip to 90 degrees. Go to the Official 3d Printing Discussion Thread in General Automotive Talk(Trucks and Cars) and watch the video I posted on slanting parts for best print. Putting the parts flat lead to other problems. I have been using Blender to create and modify files since 2013 and 3d resin printing since December 25, 2015. 

My response was geared to PLA printing, but I'll have a look at your link as well.  I'm still a beginner at this, always willing to learn.

[Oldmopars]

Have you tried Code Blocks? I think that may be the secret to tires, and wheels. I will play with it and see it it does what I want it to. It has an Array or rotate copy feature, but you have to "Code" it.

[my66s55]

40 minutes ago, PHPaul said:

My response was geared to PLA printing, but I'll have a look at your link as well.  I'm still a beginner at this, always willing to learn.

The slanting of 3d printed parts was created josef Prussa circa 2012 and was for fdm filament printers. It just makes a better print.

[my66s55]

2 hours ago, Oldmopars said:

Have you tried Code Blocks? I think that may be the secret to tires, and wheels. I will play with it and see it it does what I want it to. It has an Array or rotate copy feature, but you have to "Code" it.

I have yet to make a tire. There are too many goods ones found with Google. Google 3d tire files.

Edited March 2, 2022 by my66s55

[Oldmopars]

This was a challenge for me. I figure if I can create a tire, I can create anything. I spent a hour or 2 playing with the code blocks. This is the tool I have been missing. While it is still a little convoluted to get where you want to go, I was able to create this tire. It have a very uniform tread pattern, and by changing a few variables I can change the tires diameter, width, inner diameter, tread design, etc.

I am still refining it, but I don't think it looks too bad, I just started using Tinkercad yesterday.

[Oldmopars]

I need to play more, but these are a few variations from the same Codeblock.

[Oldmopars]

As you can see from the tires above, they are a bit flat and lack the realistic curves of the real tire. I played around a bit more and I added some contours to the sidewalls and rounded off the corners of the tread. I think this is getting closer to the look of a real tire.

While I have no printer to print this and no project that this is for, it has proven to me that it is possible to do and I can do it. A few more tweaks and it will be good enough. I don't know that I will ever resin print a tire, but it was the most complicated thing I could think of to do with this program.

 

[PHPaul]

Again, VERY impressive!  You obviously have a knack for it, and pick up new processes much faster than I do!

[Oldmopars]

As I get used to this program, I am getting much better and learning more about it. I did make some 2 hole truck wheels. These are in 20in size. I will be making some 22.5 also. 

[thatz4u]

1 hour ago, Oldmopars said:

As I get used to this program, I am getting much better and learning more about it. I did make some 2 hole truck wheels. These are in 20in size. I will be making some 22.5 also. 

Scott have you tried grilles yet?? maybe a 1960 Canadian Meteor...