AMT ‘56 T-Bird engine swap?

[NOBLNG]

I would like to swap this newer engine into the T-Bird but the upper A arms prevent me from getting it low enough to clear the hood. I could possibly swap in this later Mustang suspension? Or I could try to scratch build something. I don’t have a lot of donor kits so any advice or opinions appreciated!? Thanks in advance.

Edited March 31, 2022 by NOBLNG

[Ace-Garageguy]

Looks like it may be the accessories (alternator, power steering pump, AC compressor) that are interfering...perhaps not so much the engine itself.

On a real car, we'd relocate the accessories, maybe move the engine rearward in the chassis, possibly swap in one of the tubular Mustang II  IFS setups, and / or build custom headers to make everything fit.

On a model, there are some kit IFS setups that will swap in fairly easily.

First one that comes to mind is from the AMT Phantom Vickie kit. It comes complete with its own crossmember the control arms mount to (purple), below. It's a sorta Mustang II unit.

 

The Revell Willys street rod kit is another possible donor, as is the Revellogram '37 Ford with IFS.

 

Edited March 31, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

[Rodent]

I mocked up fitting a Coyote in an AMT '57 Ford, and it wasn't going to work. The Coyote is low and wide (DOHC). When the engine was in about the right place in the frame, the exhaust ports were about resting on the upper a-arms. As Bill says, your best bet is another front frame/suspension.

[Jantrix]

I'd splice in the entire Mustang front subframe. Ordinarily my go-to is C2-C4 Corvette subframes. The kits are easy to find and generally inexpensive. Lots of useful parts. I suppose a Nascar subframe would work also.

 

[NOBLNG]

Thanks Guys! I do have a couple of those Monogram ‘37 Fords, so I’ll explore that option. I had thought of splicing in the entire front subframe of the Mustang but it didn’t seem to line up. I’ll re-examine that possibility too.

[NOBLNG]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I wound up fabricating a new rear crossmember for mounting the factory lower control arms. The upper ones I narrowed and moved outboard slightly to clear the engine accessories. The kits stock drag-link/steering linkage fits perfectly.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 2, 2022 by NOBLNG

[LL3 Model Worx]

I was going to mention that depending on the width of the front wheels you plan to use, you could cut the control arms away from the frame and widen the distance b making some shims for the frame from sheet styrene. I'd imagine you only need a few millimeters on each side.

[NOBLNG]

Thanks. I have the suspension dealt with. I may move the spindles up a tad depending on what wheels and tires I ultimately decide on. The wheel wells will be the limiting factor now.

Edited December 2, 2022 by NOBLNG