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1971 Sebring 12 Hour S-Car-Go Camaro Z28


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Hi all,

First post and my first real go at building a model. I have built two models before but both I messed up a lot trying different techniques and ideas to point both are in ver poor state. Neither are models I intend to keep more just to learn and will likely be sacrificed further to help my first proper build.

So what is my first build?

I'm going to build a 1969 Camaro Z28 from revell, however I won't be building it as a road car. I plan to build the S-Car-Go Camaro that competed in the 1971 Sebring 12 Hours.

This isn't a particularly famous, successful or important car,it just looks really cool and has captured my interest. There's a great post with 100s photos of the restored car from an auction on bring a trailer. My model will use that for a main reference but without some of the modern items that may not have been there in 71.

I will be using two kits, the z28 kit and the yenko kit from revell to build this car as I think there may be parts from both that can be used. I have also got a photoetch detail set coming for badges and a few extra's.

Parts I am collecting for this build.

1x Revell Z28 to provide a body, engine and interior.

1x Revell Yenko Camaro - front trim, Body extras, spare suspension parts, potentially wheels.

1/25 Photo Etch Camaro detail set

 

Trying to get hold of,

 

69 Corvette brakes as on real car, will they be noticeable different to the Camaro brakes in the kit?

Torq Thrust deep dish magnesium wheels - may have a source on ebay, yenko kits wheels are not deep enough and I don't think are an exact match.

Additional endurance lights, or are these better/easier to scratch build?

 

Scratch building 

Roll cage 

Endurance fuel cell and attachment 

New exhaust system 

Flared arches 

Potentially opening doors and boot.

 

I'm planning to take my time and will b using the two body shells to practice and work out how best to go forward with ideas.

I've found a great tutorial on rolling the arches using a little bit of heat and also roll cage fabrication.

 

The opening doors is likely going to be the bit that it all goes wrong.

 

I'm gonna worry about the orange pin striping at a later date for now.

 

Cheers 

James

 

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Edited by Smilesperhour
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Welcome James, that is an ambitious undertaking for a third model build!  I will be watching and encouraging you on as this looks like a nice car to model.  There may be parts from Spotmodel that you can get for hood pins, lights, wheels, etc and are on your side of the ocean.

Bring it on, let's see your progress!

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Thanks Steve,

Ambitious indeed but I'm going to take my time, and if need be will build things to practice ideas for this car. So it may lead to a few more smaller quicker builds.

 

Rookie Error already, 1 Camaro has ended up at my parents address the other side of the country but still 1 heading to the correct place. 

 

When it gets here will start tidying up the body and work out what changes need to be made to match the real car

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43 minutes ago, bbowser said:

Cool project.  I think the fender flares and the stance will be the biggest hurdles.  Best of luck!

Yeah the flares will be a challenge.

 

Going to use a small tea light/lighter to warm the arch and then push and roll the arch. Thinking a spoon or metal ball bearing. 

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Iceman collections on ebay make a wide body kit for the 67 Camaro that you may be able to adapt to the 69 by modifying them. Kit includes front & rear fender flares & front & rear spoilers for $16.00 plus $6.00 shipping. I used them on a Revell 67 Camaro trans am car I built & they look great.

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11 hours ago, mark 23 said:

Iceman collections on ebay make a wide body kit for the 67 Camaro that you may be able to adapt to the 69 by modifying them. Kit includes front & rear fender flares & front & rear spoilers for $16.00 plus $6.00 shipping. I used them on a Revell 67 Camaro trans am car I built & they look great.

I've just had a look,may order a set to see whether be a good base to work from noticed a few other parts that may be useful too

 

thank you

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Smilesperhour said:

I've just had a look,may order a set to see whether be a good base to work from noticed a few other parts that may be useful too

 

thank you

 

 

 

 

That ended up being very useful 

 

Ordered a few different bits, some just as generic spares.

 

But I've ordered 3 different sizes or American racing wheels 15x8, 15x10 for front and 15x14 for rear, should help work out the stance and things..

 

Ordered various small additional detail parts and the 67 body kit. Going to investigate the spoon idea first.

 

Thanks for the tip

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ken miles of 

The next year he won the 24 Hours of Daytona, sharing the Ford GT Mk II with Lloyd Ruby, and then won the 12 Hours of Sebring. Several months later, sharing the drive with Denny Hulme, Miles was leading the 1966 24 Hours of Le Mans in the #1 car, but Ford Motor Company executive Leo Beebe, desiring a publicity photo of three of Ford's cars crossing the finish line together, instructed Miles to slow down, which he did. Accordingly, on the final lap the next car from Ford driven by Bruce McLaren/Chris Amon and the third-place car from Ford drew up, and they cruised to the line together.[11] The French race officials, after initially agreeing to Ford's dead-heat "photo-finish", reneged during the final hour of the race. Although Miles' #1 car and McLaren's #2 car crossed the finish line together, McLaren's #2 was declared the winner because having started in second position behind Miles' car, it had therefore covered 8 meters more distance during the race.[12][13] Miles was denied the unique achievement of winning Sebring, Daytona, and Le Mans in the same year.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah very aware of his talents and history.

What a man.

Not made any progress over Christmas waiting on styrene sheets to redo the floor. 

 

Also debating copper rods or styrene rods for the cage.

Has anyone got more pictures of any racing camaros of similar age and there transmission tunnels. I feel this cars has been updated beyond how a racer in period would be.it also looks squared off in some pictures.

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3 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Definitely styrene if it was me. Evergreen has such a variety of products. I'd use the 1.6mm rod for a roll cage. 

Thanks for the tip.

 

Engine work started, one is the correct engine the other is the yenko engine, building that up working out what not to do then building the engine I'll use.

 

Used some printed carbs on the correct engine, I decided to go with bright red for the engine block as opposed to black/grey on real car to give a bit more colour.

 

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