I am done buying Monogram 40 Fords

[junkyardjeff]

The last one arrived today and do not need any more,this one has the engine parts the other one was missing and have all the parts for the 60s kit bash.  This one was heavily glued and the bed broke taking the bed cover off so I doubt I will be able to save many more parts,I am going to see if I can salvage the chassis but everything else will be destroyed taking apart.

[OldNYJim]

Have you tried freezing it in gallon ziplock bag of water?  That has worked well for me before 

[junkyardjeff]

25 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

Have you tried freezing it in gallon ziplock bag of water?  That has worked well for me before 

I have not tried that.

[OldNYJim]

4 minutes ago, junkyardjeff said:

I have not tried that.

The expansion from the freezing of the water gently helps gently pry everything apart - or at least gives it a good start.  Free to try and worth a shot!

[Mark]

Patience, go slow, use the right tools for the job.  Thin saw blades that fit an X-Acto handle, even the hot knife tip for a small soldering iron have saved parts for me in the past with little damage to repair later

[1930fordpickup]

2 hours ago, junkyardjeff said:

The last one arrived today and do not need any more,this one has the engine parts the other one was missing and have all the parts for the 60s kit bash.  This one was heavily glued and the bed broke taking the bed cover off so I doubt I will be able to save many more parts,I am going to see if I can salvage the chassis but everything else will be destroyed taking apart.

The other comments are great.  I have one to add. when it comes to taking this apart, (if you choose) sometimes you have to decide what part you want to save and what part to sacrifice. 

[Mr. Metallic]

You can use mineral spirits to help with some of the glue joints. Take a brush, load it up with the MS, and brush it on the glue joint. Wait a couple minutes, and then gently try to work the parts apart. For more stubborn glue joints you may have to score the glue first with the back of a knife blade or a razor saw.

[NOBLNG]

On 12/22/2022 at 11:34 PM, Mark said:

Patience, go slow, use the right tools for the job.  Thin saw blades that fit an X-Acto handle, even the hot knife tip for a small soldering iron have saved parts for me in the past with little damage to repair later

Yes, these photo etch saw blades are fantastic. A real light touch is required to avoid bending them, but they are very sharp and you lose almost no material. They come in at least two thicknesses.

Edited December 27, 2022 by NOBLNG

[junkyardjeff]

I lied and bought another,it's a 80s version that I got for parts to fix two 60s versions.  I got a can of bad paint and messed up the bed for the 40 that had the flatbed and need a chassis for another that I robbed parts off of,the bed with the messed up paint will become a utility trailer.

[Carmak]

On 12/22/2022 at 9:56 PM, CabDriver said:

Have you tried freezing it in gallon ziplock bag of water?  That has worked well for me before 

My spin on Cab Driver's method.

I put the models in a Ziplock and hold the bag upside down over a small pot of boiling water with an oven mitt (BE CAREFUL). I let the bag fill with the hot water vapor. Seal the bag and into the deep freeze for a week. 

The water vapor gets into the small cracks between parts and freezes. A little thermal shock helps also. Sometimes it takes a few cycles.

I have done this for 40+ years and it doesn't always work but sometimes it really surprises me.