Using newer Revell & Moebius wheels on older models

[Monty]

Every once in a while I do ebay searches for 1/25 wheels just to see what's out there.  I've come across some wheels I really like but they have a proprietary flange that virtually requires you to use that kit's tires.  

Is there an easy workaround that will let me use these with AMT/MPC tires?

[stitchdup]

cut or file the flange off. you can get most of it removed using your sprue cutter then its just filing and sanding to get a nice surface. a bit of tape on the edges should save the chrome if you want to save it, i use the thick paper parcel tape for this as its tougher than masking tape and if you dont rub it down too much its also easy to remove

[Monty]

16 hours ago, stitchdup said:

cut or file the flange off. you can get most of it removed using your sprue cutter then its just filing and sanding to get a nice surface. a bit of tape on the edges should save the chrome if you want to save it, i use the thick paper parcel tape for this as its tougher than masking tape and if you dont rub it down too much its also easy to remove

Have you actually done this successfully?  Pics?  I ask because the wheels I generally use (MPC /AMT) are kept in the tire by the slightly larger outer flange of the wheel plus whatever wheel back you glue to it.  These wheels in question are locked into their same-make (Revell/Moebius) tires by their internal flanges.  If ground off, what keeps the wheel in the tire?

[stitchdup]

5 hours ago, Monty said:

Have you actually done this successfully?  Pics?  I ask because the wheels I generally use (MPC /AMT) are kept in the tire by the slightly larger outer flange of the wheel plus whatever wheel back you glue to it.  These wheels in question are locked into their same-make (Revell/Moebius) tires by their internal flanges.  If ground off, what keeps the wheel in the tire?

yes, but i used a set of aoshima tyres on the revell r8 rims but its the same process. I also had to trim the centre out of the wheel back as i wanted proper brakes behind the rim and not in between the faces. you can also get a friction fit if you carefully trim the centre ridge of the tyres to be evr so slighly smaller than the rim but doing this can be a pain to keep the tyre profile even as any discrepancy will make the tyre not round though gently warming the tyre can soften them to ease getting them on the rims. if your worried about the tyre coming loose you can alwats add a dab of glue to hold them

[Mark]

Some of the newer hollow tires from Round 2 should fit those wheels.  Solid tires and slicks will necessitate trimming the flange of course.

[Oldriginal86]

I’m not in favor of the way these wheels are made. Not sure what the benefit is. Not all change is for the better.

[stavanzer]

19 minutes ago, Oldriginal86 said:

I’m not in favor of the way these wheels are made. Not sure what the benefit is. Not all change is for the better.

I think it is a carry-over from Diecast Cars. That is where I first noticed it.

Then Moebius copied it, and now Revell.

I have no clue of the technical reason for doing it this way, but, Like You, I don't care for it. I wish they would stop doing it. It may have somehow be connected to the fact that this first appeared on Chinese made Diecast "Franklin Mint-style" pieces. It seems to have spread from there to other places who have tooling done in China. MIght be a slowly spreading Chinese thing, but I am just guessing.

I do know that it is very annoying.

[bobthehobbyguy]

Actually I think it's an improvement. With old style the tire is trapped between the outside lips of the two wheel haves. With the paddle style the tire is held out by the paddle edges. If you want to use the new tires on older rims then add the paddles to the old rim.