MarkJ Posted January 6 Author Posted January 6 3 hours ago, absmiami said: OMG / there’s a straight line in there somewhere …. Dont short-sell yourself … Ok, Andy. If you say so. But there is no plastic containers used in this build. I googled bl plastic. Apparently, glue will not stick to it.
MarkJ Posted January 8 Author Posted January 8 Slowly getting the items fitted to the chassis. Turns out the fan was too far forward on the engine, so I had to cut it off and shorten the spacer between the fan and the pulley. Also been touching up the white where it meets the black on the chassis like the cage pads and the front suspension pieces. Vallejo makes a paint called cold white that does a great job doing this touch up work. It is a very opaque white. usually when you touch up black near white with regular white paint it just turns it gray because of the bleed through. The cold white takes longer to dry though.
MarkJ Posted January 8 Author Posted January 8 Finally got the engine finished. Not the results I was looking for. The Revell chrome does not like to be handled. tried a little weathering on the air cleaner element with some soot. That did not turn out well either. Oh well I can just display the engine with the air cleaner off. Time to move on to completion and build something else.
MarkJ Posted January 9 Author Posted January 9 If you go back to page 13 of the wip ,you can see how much better the air cleaner looked right after it was shot with the Revell chrome spray. Like I said, maybe some future will protect it from dulling out from handling it. I guess I should have used plastic gloves but it's not really easy to work with them on if you've ever tried that. It's hard enough for me with no gloves at all.
Pierre Rivard Posted January 9 Posted January 9 That's very unfortunate. We witness on this forum too many failures whit some of these chrome paints. Not the builder's fault when the chrome paint can't be touched or can't handle a clear layer over it. Had similar issues a few years ago when Green Stuff World was the latest magical chrome paint...until it was not. You can only move on with the build
MarkJ Posted January 9 Author Posted January 9 2 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said: That's very unfortunate. We witness on this forum too many failures whit some of these chrome paints. Not the builder's fault when the chrome paint can't be touched or can't handle a clear layer over it. Had similar issues a few years ago when Green Stuff World was the latest magical chrome paint...until it was not. You can only move on with the build Thanks, Pierre. the wheels are still okay except for the very outer edge because they are mostly inset and your finger doesn't touch most of it when handling it. I went ahead and futured the air cleaner and wheels to hopefully not dull them anymore. I'm going to try to rescribe the air cleaner element and redo the weathering on it. I might just paint the top of the air cleaner aluminum like the engine.
MarkJ Posted January 10 Author Posted January 10 I've been thinking and if it warms up enough next week I might sneak outside and repaint the air cleaner with Revell Chrome and try really hard not to touch it anymore. I did get around to installing the rear axle assembly and I need to decal the tires so I can install them to the chassis, but I really need to install the engine and the rest of the parts on the chassis. I still have the body to repaint. Not looking forward to that. 1
MarkJ Posted January 12 Author Posted January 12 Got some stuff painted and touched up. The parts to put on the chassis are slowly diminishing. I keep having house emergency's I have to fix like auguring the pipe for my kitchen sink. Never a fun task to do. beats having a plumber come out and charge a fortune to do it. 3
MarkJ Posted January 12 Author Posted January 12 Thanks, Ken. The touchup was hard with the highly contrasting colors of yellow and white right next to black. Tiny brush and thank goodness at 73, I don't have shaky hands yet.
Mattilacken Posted January 13 Posted January 13 Looking great with some paint on it! It’s really coming alive!
MarkJ Posted January 13 Author Posted January 13 Thanks, Anton for stopping by and commenting on the build. I just wish the real car I'm depicting had not had a white chassis.
MarkJ Posted January 14 Author Posted January 14 I was going to start on the repainting of the body, and I realized I needed to make some door handles that eventually got removed from all the body prep that kept on happening the first time I painted it. I also need to make some openings where the park lamps usually go. I need to fill the square holes for the handles with a sunk in tiny piece of plastic for the doors. And the park lamp openings will have some aquarium filter mesh put in them. The door handles on this car were nonfunctional, but they were there so I need to make them. So were the park lamp openings. I will make the handles so I can install them after the model is painted. The oob handles are almost an after thought. 1
TransAmMike Posted January 14 Posted January 14 The Camaro continues to come along nicely Mark, buy geez, you have been working on it a lonnnnng time😊
Pierre Rivard Posted January 14 Posted January 14 Do I know the feeling friend, there's always something we forgot. Hang in there!
MarkJ Posted January 14 Author Posted January 14 Thanks, Mike and Pierre. Yes, Mike it's been one step forward two steps back for over a year now. Pierre, that's my middle name, forgot. But at least I caught it in time.
MarkJ Posted January 15 Author Posted January 15 I will make the handles where I can install them after the body is painted and they are painted. should be a lot cleaner looking. I will also make a lock cylinder that will slide in the hole. that will also be pre painted. Starting the process of cutting out the park lights. I've decided to reprime the whole model before I repaint it. Found that Mr. Surfacer 1000 that Andrew recommended at HobLob and will try that. Hoping it sands out smoother than the Vallejo primers I have had a lot of trouble with. 2
MarkJ Posted January 17 Author Posted January 17 Got some stuff from Micro-Mark. You know how it goes. You think of one thing you need and then decide, oh yeah, I need that too and then you finally end up ordering 5 things. 1
MarkJ Posted January 17 Author Posted January 17 Got some more work on the body done. Glad I will be able to put the handles on after the body is painted. 2
Mattilacken Posted January 19 Posted January 19 Nice work on those handels! If i remember correctly you are brush painting the body as well? Looks like a good start on it.
MarkJ Posted January 19 Author Posted January 19 12 minutes ago, Mattilacken said: Nice work on those handels! If i remember correctly you are brush painting the body as well? Looks like a good start on it. Thanks, Anton. Yes, I will be brush painting the body, but I want to try the Mr. Surfacer 1000 rattle can primer first to get a much better surface to paint on this time than what I had last time. the Vallejo brush paint primers are not a very good surface primer. They don't sand out very well or like a scriber used on the door and trunk gaps. it just leaves a very rough edge on the gaps. It actually dries too hard for good sanding to take place if you can understand what I'm saying. You would have to experience it yourself to know what I'm talking about.
Mattilacken Posted January 19 Posted January 19 18 minutes ago, MarkJ said: Thanks, Anton. Yes, I will be brush painting the body, but I want to try the Mr. Surfacer 1000 rattle can primer first to get a much better surface to paint on this time than what I had last time. the Vallejo brush paint primers are not a very good surface primer. They don't sand out very well or like a scriber used on the door and trunk gaps. it just leaves a very rough edge on the gaps. It actually dries too hard for good sanding to take place if you can understand what I'm saying. You would have to experience it yourself to know what I'm talking about. That surface primer does the difference, I use Tamiya alloy and if I don’t have primer it feels that the styrene is to slippery to paint on to with a thin layer. I have tried that primer but not with any good results, wanted to see if I could replace Tamiya primer with it but as you say it’s not the same.
MarkJ Posted January 19 Author Posted January 19 Had to make the park light openings less wide to get them to look like the openings on the IROC race Camaro. For some reason they are not as wide as the stock Camaro park lamp openings. I used a rate pair to figure out the dimensions from a front photo of the IROC race Camaro. Also finished the left door handle. I just need to add a raised border around each park lamp opening and also add a filler piece in the opening which I may do later since it will be black. IROC Camaros before 1989 had cooling hoses coming from the park lamp openings, I guess for the brakes but not in 1989, the year I'm doing. 1
MarkJ Posted January 20 Author Posted January 20 I had to round up the corners of the park lamp openings before I can make fillers for them. I won't install the fillers till after the body is painted. Just like the door handles. 1
MarkJ Posted January 21 Author Posted January 21 Finally got the park light inserts finished. I will paint them black and install them after I repaint the body just like the door handles. Hopefully it will make for a cleaner look which I'm not that good at doing. Like to do the same thing for the headlight covers and hood louvers but that's just too much work. I don't want to spend another year on this thing. 1
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