Decal problem

[Dave Armstrong]

I've been building models for decades, I'm very experienced with decals; but this one is bugging me.

I've been working with some Slixx decals, something I've done a zillion times before. I'm using decals that are specifically meant for this body, but it still seems like the decals are just slightly bigger than they should be- they over hang in places, which means I'll probably have to trim them; no big deal, something I've done before- except for the MAIN problem. If the decals stayed in place, the trimming would go fine; but the bugger is, the decals AND the model act like they're coated with Teflon, and repel each other! I use a gloss coat over the paint, as usual, to help prevent silvering- nothing different here. I try to apply the decals, and they just slide around, won't settle down. I wick away the water, blot, and as they dry a little, they just fall off the model! I have several different setting solutions, and they just MELT the decals, creating a mess!

So, what's my choice- just use water and blot, they drop off, won't stick; use a setting solution, and create a sticky mess! And I use setting solutions sparingly. I've ruined two sets of the same decals for this build, and because of the mess, having to strip and repaint the body twice. I'm ready to throw this thing against the wall. For someone who has built a LOT of models, a LOT of decal work, this is just nuts.

Any ideas?

[Mike 1017]

13 hours ago, Dave Armstrong said:

I've been building models for decades, I'm very experienced with decals; but this one is bugging me.

I've been working with some Slixx decals, something I've done a zillion times before. I'm using decals that are specifically meant for this body, but it still seems like the decals are just slightly bigger than they should be- they over hang in places, which means I'll probably have to trim them; no big deal, something I've done before- except for the MAIN problem. If the decals stayed in place, the trimming would go fine; but the bugger is, the decals AND the model act like they're coated with Teflon, and repel each other! I use a gloss coat over the paint, as usual, to help prevent silvering- nothing different here. I try to apply the decals, and they just slide around, won't settle down. I wick away the water, blot, and as they dry a little, they just fall off the model! I have several different setting solutions, and they just MELT the decals, creating a mess!

So, what's my choice- just use water and blot, they drop off, won't stick; use a setting solution, and create a sticky mess! And I use setting solutions sparingly. I've ruined two sets of the same decals for this build, and because of the mess, having to strip and repaint the body twice. I'm ready to throw this thing against the wall. For someone who has built a LOT of models, a LOT of decal work, this is just nuts.

Any ideas?

Contact Slixx

[peteski]

I'm confused.  The way you described it sounds like you are trying to trim them while they are still wet on the model?  You need them to dry first.  Or are you saying that even when dry, they don't stay on the model?  If that's the case then yes, contact Slixx.

It also sounds like you have successfully used Slixx decals (and decal setting solutions) in the past.  If you are using the same setting solution as before, and the decals are melting, then again contact Slixx.

[Dave Armstrong]

On 12/11/2023 at 2:45 PM, peteski said:

I'm confused.  The way you described it sounds like you are trying to trim them while they are still wet on the model?  You need them to dry first.  Or are you saying that even when dry, they don't stay on the model?  If that's the case then yes, contact Slixx.

It also sounds like you have successfully used Slixx decals (and decal setting solutions) in the past.  If you are using the same setting solution as before, and the decals are melting, then again contact Slixx.

I'm saying, I'll need to trim the decals, ONCE THEY'RE IN PLACE, DRY. But that can't happen because the MAIN problem, the decals won't stay on the model! I've written to Slixx, but no answer.

[JollySipper]

You might could have someone scan the decals you want to use, then reprint them on more user-friendly paper........ I believe there's guys here on the forum that could do that.

[peteski]

21 hours ago, Dave Armstrong said:

I'm saying, I'll need to trim the decals, ONCE THEY'RE IN PLACE, DRY. But that can't happen because the MAIN problem, the decals won't stay on the model! I've written to Slixx, but no answer.

Weird!  It is as if you were applying them to a Teflon coated surface? Are the decals as thin as older Slick decals you have used in the past, or is the decal film itself thicker or stiffer than the old ones? 

[Dave Armstrong]

2 hours ago, peteski said:

Weird!  It is as if you were applying them to a Teflon coated surface? Are the decals as thin as older Slick decals you have used in the past, or is the decal film itself thicker or stiffer than the old ones? 

Yes! I can't tell if the decals are really any different; but most of the time, when you apply decals, you have to be sure they're somewhat wet, with water or a wetting agent, to give you time to get them in place- otherwise, they start to stay in place before you're ready, have to re-wet them to move them- they WANT to grab onto the model. This is like the opposite- they will slide around, wet or dry, and as they dry out, they don't want to stick, they fall off the model. TEFLON!

[peteski]

Dave, is it possible that the paint (gloss coat) is the culprit?  Since you already have some unused decals, can you maybe try to apply them to some other smooth surface to see how they behave?

[Dave Armstrong]

On 12/13/2023 at 10:07 PM, peteski said:

Dave, is it possible that the paint (gloss coat) is the culprit?  Since you already have some unused decals, can you maybe try to apply them to some other smooth surface to see how they behave?

Hi Pete,

That was my last thought as well- I normally use either Testor's Wet Look clear, or an acrylic enamel clear on my car models; but I use Tamiya clear on my aircraft builds, followed by Tamiya flat over the decals. On this one I used the Tamiya clear on a car. I wouldn't have thought it would make a difference, as the decals don't slide around on the aircraft, why should they on the car? Perhaps because there is some strange funkiness between Tamiya clear and Slixx? After all, there aren't any Slixx decals for aircraft, so it never came up...I didn't have decals to try that theory out then, but I do now. I repainted and this time, used the acrylic clear before I try the decals, which I have a new set of. Thanks for your thoughts on it, gives me hope that maybe between the two of us, that might be the answer. Wish me luck, as I'll give it a whack tomorrow (Friday).

[bobss396]

On 12/14/2023 at 12:07 AM, peteski said:

Dave, is it possible that the paint (gloss coat) is the culprit?  Since you already have some unused decals, can you maybe try to apply them to some other smooth surface to see how they behave?

I have a stock car, another stalled project..., with a similar decal problem. The paint is Duplicolor white, polished out, no clear. I used JnJ decals and some Polar Lights decals, some of them fall off quite easily. I have to look at what I used to polish it, Meguiars Show Car Glaze. If it has silicon in it, that could be MY issue.

[Dave Armstrong]

On 12/13/2023 at 10:07 PM, peteski said:

Dave, is it possible that the paint (gloss coat) is the culprit?  Since you already have some unused decals, can you maybe try to apply them to some other smooth surface to see how they behave?

I tried again, Pete- it's just no go. A mystery that defies solving. I'm going to do something else with the almost finished build.

[peteski]

2 hours ago, Dave Armstrong said:

I tried again, Pete- it's just no go. A mystery that defies solving. I'm going to do something else with the almost finished build.

Well, that's not good.   Hopefully you will eventually get some answers from Slixx.

Dave I asked and I didn't see a reply. Since you had successful experience with Slixx in the past, can you tell if those misbehaving decals are any stiffer or thicker than the ones which used to work well?

And Bob, I would never even consider waxing the model before applying decals. Like you said, wax will leave likely  leave film os toms substance (like silicon) on the paint's surface.

[Dave Armstrong]

44 minutes ago, peteski said:

Well, that's not good.   Hopefully you will eventually get some answers from Slixx.

Dave I asked and I didn't see a reply. Since you had successful experience with Slixx in the past, can you tell if those misbehaving decals are any stiffer or thicker than the ones which used to work well?

And Bob, I would never even consider waxing the model before applying decals. Like you said, wax will leave likely  leave film os toms substance (like silicon) on the paint's surface.

Slixx never answered me. I don't understand it, I've used their decals for decades without problems. I don't see any difference being thicker or stiffer. The brand/type of gloss coat doesn't seem to make a difference. It's like as if you bought a roll of adhesive tape, and the roll you bought didn't have the adhesive- it was just paper or plastic that wouldn't stick to anything- weird!

Bob- Pete's right, never polish/wax before decals. Actually, I NEVER wax my builds- no matter how gentle, it will scratch the paint, and leave a residue that's hard to get off. If I want shine or a deeper finish, more gloss coats for a beautiful deep finish.

[peteski]

I assume you emailed them at Becky@slixx.com .  Maybe your email was intercepted by their Spam filter for some reason.  If you have another email account you can try emailing them from.

Or maybe try calling them at 770-720-3177 ?  Or even send them an old-fashion snail-mail letter.  The address is on their website. 

 

[D.Pack]

Use a mix of Klear* & water to lay the decals?

I recently used this mix to lay some Slixx nascar decals.I chose to wash off the oId gritty glue.

Started with a 50/50 dilution and in some places under solid colour, used pure Klear.

Also need an ammonia/Klear/water solution to remove any residue.

*Or it's new alternative name. Pledge for my use.

Edited December 17, 2023 by D.Pack

[Roy L Frost III]

this might help or not, haven't read it in the responses, but a simple hair dryer might help. I have built for years and love decal work, a hair dryer is always on hand no matter how many decals are to be applied. using decal solutions around door jams and hood, trunk jams, the drier sets them and you can cut with new blade then your good to go. But you probably already know this, so that is all I got