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Posted

Of late I haven't spent much time on modeling and progress has been slow. Made some headway on the coupe and of course it's still fighting with me. As many times as I checked and double checked the wheel base is off. Rear wheels sit too far forward. But at this stage in the game do I bother to fix it or just give in to it. Really want to wrap this one up and move on not make a career out of it. WDYT?

DSC00375.jpg.ef7c6505916419a2b5f856c19813b135.jpgDSC00377.jpg.4e8ab9644dcb70dfb4ae881c7218880d.jpgDSC00376.jpg.8556a38e085e630056a5231b4113ceaa.jpgDSC00378.jpg.60887aee07c60bf030224e2996466f63.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

By God, I'll tell you what I  think Lenny! Problem is they won't allow those words on this forum ?.  Seriously though, the kit isn't really suitable to be an accurate model of a '41 Plymouth, obviously.  It's just raw material to be fussed with and maybe customized and, I dunno, Lenny....it's a cool body style to be made into something other than an accurate '41 Plymouth. Don't feel bad. You have done as much as humanly possible to make it right but it's time to say "good enough" and move on to maybe a ....um.....ahh.....uhhh.....an an AMT '57 T-bird!...uh no, don't do that ?....a  Moebius Chrysler kit! ?

BTW, you might try to lower the rear and see if it looks any better. It might be a geometry problem. Just a thought.

Edited by customline
  • Like 1
Posted

I see you have a bottle of ivy green. Nice choice. How's the bottom look on this one?  This is the best looking of the stacked headlight Galaxies, IMHO.  Party on!

Posted
10 hours ago, customline said:

I see you have a bottle of ivy green. Nice choice. How's the bottom look on this one?  This is the best looking of the stacked headlight Galaxies, IMHO.  Party on!

The Ivy Green is actually for a 67 Cougar. You’ll have to wait to see the color of this one. ?
 

You’re gonna learn a lot about Galaxies bottoms when I get into this one ?

Posted

It’s looking really nice Len. I like the new headlight bezels and contrasting fender welting. I would fix the rear wheel location. You’ve put so much work into it already. Every time you look at it, you’ll say why didn’t I fix that? JMO.?

  • Like 1
Posted

I agree with Jim, Customline, on the Plymouth. I have fiddled with one of those a couple of times and just put it back in the box. I felt that I didn't need the brain damage trying to get the body parts to meet up let alone deal with the chassis. Nox this Galaxie looks like it has nice body proportions and general shape. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, LennyB said:

The Ivy Green is actually for a 67 Cougar. You’ll have to wait to see the color of this one. ?
 

You’re gonna learn a lot about Galaxies bottoms when I get into this one ?

There was a time, Len, when I didn't care but after dealing with my current endeavor, I am eager to learn the finer points of chassis swapping.  Will you be swapping this one? ?

Posted
6 minutes ago, espo said:

I agree with Jim, Customline, on the Plymouth. I have fiddled with one of those a couple of times and just put it back in the box. I felt that I didn't need the brain damage trying to get the body parts to meet up let alone deal with the chassis. Nox this Galaxie looks like it has nice body proportions and general shape. 

Dave, I still have two of those "fantastic $13 bargains" I got from Ollie's in the closet and when I finally recover from building the last one, (which is covered in a light coating of dust and still needs a battery and radiator hoses) I will approach the '41 Plymouth kits with a completely different attitude. ? Most of the front sheet metal will not be used. 

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, customline said:

There was a time, Len, when I didn't care but after dealing with my current endeavor, I am eager to learn the finer points of chassis swapping.  Will you be swapping this one? ?

Yes, there will be a chassis swap but it’s not what you think

 

Anyway, need to go rip the rear end out of this Plymouth ?

  • Haha 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, LennyB said:

Yes, there will be a chassis swap but it’s not what you think

 

Anyway, need to go rip the rear end out of this Plymouth ?

Oooooo.....I  am holding my somewhat diminished COPD restricted breath.....cough, cough...?

Anyway, yeah, that will probably be the solution to the "wheel-too-far-forward" issue. Hang in there, Lenny....I feel your pain ?. See my T-bird thread ?.

Posted

Funny how things happen. If you go back to April 22nd in this thread I was struggling with the rear end height of the Woody. Now I'm struggling with the rear end on the coupe.

 

Below you will see the original rear end of the Woody on the left, the coupe rear end in the center and the coupe sans rear end on the right.

DSC00392.jpg.1af1a907c063f50fc2242917ad4711f9.jpg

 

Both rears are from the AMT it but yet I found they fit the chassis differently.  You can pretty much see in the pic the arch is different between the two.  Any-who, I simply cleaned up the rear a bit from the woody, gave it some new paint, and stuck it in with some epoxy into the coupe.

DSC00393.jpg.a874117ab40fae4a0aadc409ab73d49f.jpg

 

Now I think our stance is a whole lot better.DSC00395.jpg.1afe3bde7307babf83d6e92a051a04b3.jpg

 

DSC00396.jpg.fe2e3246240b3bdcd737ad667f2e236b.jpg

 

Now let's throw a few more parts at it and get this bugger off the bench.?

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Well Lenny, I just happened to look at your thread.   Good looking old Plymouth ya got there.  The 2K clear made it shine!!

Yes, Mike, I like working with the 2K. Thanks for stopping in.

Posted (edited)

Awright,  that's it!  What's the deal with this so called 2K clear? What is it ? and why do I keep seeing it on these pages? It's like it just sprung up in the last couple of months and now it's everywhere I go now. Can someone please clue me in? Am I that ignorant? (Well, possibly ?)

Edit:  nice job on the rear end work, Lenny, it looks a lot better ?

Edited by customline
  • Like 1
Posted
22 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

What 2K did you use.  I've never tried it.

 

DSC00398.thumb.JPG.bc31303fe52d6c2e2059126226e8442d.JPG

 

Mike, This is what I used on my recent builds. After I got annoyed with the lack of progress I was making with other clears, which I think is documented earlier in this thread, I went out to the garage and grabbed this automotive clear that was left over  from a 1:1 build and never looked back. It might seem expensive to buy a gallon of clear at @ $75.00 but it will last a long time.

 

3 hours ago, customline said:

Awright,  that's it!  What's the deal with this so called 2K clear? What is it ? and why do I keep seeing it on these pages? It's like it just sprung up in the last couple of months and now it's everywhere I go now. Can someone please clue me in? Am I that ignorant? (Well, possibly ?)

Edit:  nice job on the rear end work, Lenny, it looks a lot better ?

Jim, I can understand as the term 2K is rather generic and has nothing to do with Y2K. The 2K really means that you need a catalyst or hardener with the clear. I have been using this mixed with the hardener straight for the first couple of coats and then add in some reducer for the final coat so it flows out nice. Wet sanding before the final coat. On this coupe I only had to sand out a couple of blems on the drivers door otherwise the shine is as sprayed.

 

I've done four bodies this way in the last couple of months and except for some fisheyes on the 1963 Plymouth I'm happy with the result. One thing I think is important with this is to have a dedicated airbrush for just the clear. I think that was the cause of my fisheyes.  The stuff dries so that you can handle it in a couple of hours and hard as a rock after a couple of days. So if you do have to wetsand or polish it you will want to do it within 48 hours.

Posted

Yeah that's waaaay outta my price range for the very occasional use. I'm sure there are some specific model 2k in a smaller quantity. I know Splash has one but like I said, never used the stuff. 

Posted
2 hours ago, LennyB said:

 

DSC00398.thumb.JPG.bc31303fe52d6c2e2059126226e8442d.JPG

 

Mike, This is what I used on my recent builds. After I got annoyed with the lack of progress I was making with other clears, which I think is documented earlier in this thread, I went out to the garage and grabbed this automotive clear that was left over  from a 1:1 build and never looked back. It might seem expensive to buy a gallon of clear at @ $75.00 but it will last a long time.

 

Jim, I can understand as the term 2K is rather generic and has nothing to do with Y2K. The 2K really means that you need a catalyst or hardener with the clear. I have been using this mixed with the hardener straight for the first couple of coats and then add in some reducer for the final coat so it flows out nice. Wet sanding before the final coat. On this coupe I only had to sand out a couple of blems on the drivers door otherwise the shine is as sprayed.

 

I've done four bodies this way in the last couple of months and except for some fisheyes on the 1963 Plymouth I'm happy with the result. One thing I think is important with this is to have a dedicated airbrush for just the clear. I think that was the cause of my fisheyes.  The stuff dries so that you can handle it in a couple of hours and hard as a rock after a couple of days. So if you do have to wetsand or polish it you will want to do it within 48 hours.

Thanks, Len. I figured it was more complicated than I am willing to get into. It's not for me.  I am glad it works for you, though, it looks terrific. 

Posted
11 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Yeah that's waaaay outta my price range for the very occasional use. I'm sure there are some specific model 2k in a smaller quantity. I know Splash has one but like I said, never used the stuff. 

It works for me as I also use it for full size cars.   You can buy it in smaller quantities so you could look into that.   

Posted

The Woody

 

I'd say maybe three perhaps four weeks ago I masked off the Woody and sprayed a base coat of light yellow on the wood area getting it ready for some wood-graining. Then somehow it got pushed off to a corner, hanging out with a '67 Galaxie for some reason. I don't know, maybe the Galaxie winked at the Woody or something. And there it sat, all masked up and no-where to go. Earlier today I figured I better retrieve it from that corner before the masking tape makes itself a permanent feature. Got out the oil paint and mixed up some wood and started working the side frames.

 

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The panel inserts need to be done in a darker wood. I'm on the fence as to trying to wood-grain the inserts, which will be a little tricky so as not to smear the frames, or do I wimp out and use the kit supplied decals. I had enough fun trying to keep the grain going in the correct direction on the frames, messed up in one spot on the tailgate that I'm aware of, it will be even more fun trying to keep the grain contained on the panels.

DSC00402.jpg.1e3f2da5ff2cdf2840158e8107f4bf17.jpg

 

Have a couple of days to think about it as I let this layer get good and dry. Unless it ends up in the corner with that Galaxie again. ?

Posted (edited)

Basically, Len, you are not gonna keep that old woody from having  his way with that younger Gal so just mind your business and give them some privacy. Who knows, maybe by spring there will be a little mustang running around ?.

The trim wood looks nice, Len, and I would definitely use the decals but maybe not dipped, but cut and glued on with white glue or a contact type glue. I can't recall off-hand if the ,panels have a molded-in grain or not.  I gotta go look now

I've got a woody to do one of these days, so help me God. I have a '53 Country Squire resin body haunting me....3 am it wakes me up - "c'mon Jimmy, I'm waiting for you to work your magic on me".....and I'm scared, Lenny, the truth be known. There are no decals for the panels !  and you've seen my woodgraining..... ?? <- this is going to be my new sig line ?

Edited by customline
  • Haha 2
Posted
9 hours ago, customline said:

Basically, Len, you are not gonna keep that old woody from having  his way with that younger Gal so just mind your business and give them some privacy. Who knows, maybe by spring there will be a little mustang running around ?.

The trim wood looks nice, Len, and I would definitely use the decals but maybe not dipped, but cut and glued on with white glue or a contact type glue. I can't recall off-hand if the ,panels have a molded-in grain or not.  I gotta go look now

I've got a woody to do one of these days, so help me God. I have a '53 Country Squire resin body haunting me....3 am it wakes me up - "c'mon Jimmy, I'm waiting for you to work your magic on me".....and I'm scared, Lenny, the truth be known. There are no decals for the panels !  and you've seen my woodgraining..... ?? <- this is going to be my new sig line ?

There is no molded-in wood grain on this one. Didn’t think of using the decals dry. I want to clear over everything so I’ll have to test the decals to see if they can take it?

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