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Decal solvent


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So I’ve heard about decal solvent, and how it makes applying decals much easier.

I’ve always struggled with this part of modeling. I’ll get the build right up till it’s time to add decals.

Is there a specific solution anyone uses to make this a less dreadful process.

please call out your favorite brand and how it works.

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I have always preferred good ol' Micro Set and Micro Sol. I can't think of an instance in which they failed me. I have heard some guys say there are certain decal manufacturers on whose decals they don't really have an effect. I haven't run across that instance, however.

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I use Solvaset by Walthers. They have been making it since 1934.......I've been using it for 40 years.

As a decal manufacture ....here is my way....

 

Regardless of decal type here is how I apply decals.

 

I cut the decal from the sheet as close to the image as possible. I have a small pair of scissors that are sharp and easy to cut around small images.

 

Using tweezers I dip the decal in warm water for about 10 seconds.

 

I place decal on a damp paper towel and allow the decal to ‘cook’ as its called. This can vary by decal paper maker. It can be anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute or two. When decal moves easily on paper backing it is ready to apply.

 

On surface of model put two or three drops of water. With tweezers place decal on model body where you want to apply. With your finger move the decal image off the paper just enough to use your tweezers to pull the decal paper from under the decal image. This will keep as much air out from under the decal.

 

Position the decal image in the exact spot you wan tit. With the slightly damp paper towel blot the water from the decal.

 

Making sure the decal is positioned in the correct spot, make a squeegee from the damp paper towel and from the center of the decal out to the edge squeegee out all the water and some of the glue. This will keep the decal from turning yellow as it ages. Apply Solvaset in a light coat. 

 

After the decals dry for a day or two I apply a coat of Future Floor Shine with a 1 in wide soft sable brush that is only used for Future. Allow to dry overnight and all should be good!!!

 

Good luck!

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In addition to Dave Vans excellent suggestions a couple of additional considerations. Try using a clean dedicated paint brush to wet the model's surface. The brush can also be used to move the decal around after application on the model, a blunted toothpick is another tool that can be used to gently move the decal if it is still wet.  Use a piece of paper towel to wick away any excess moisture by just touching the edge of the decal once it is positioned. 

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All of the above is good advice....

I add a small drop or two of blue Dawn dish soap to a cup of warm water when Appling decals. This tends to make the water more "slippery" making it easier to position decals.

Once the decal is in place I use the appropriate setting solution to get the decal to snuggle down. 

In my experience Micro Sol & Micro Set are fairly benign, generally not very aggressive, so they work well on simple surfaces such as flat or slightly curved panels. Solvaset on the other hand tends to be more aggressive at softening decal for more complicated surfaces....but this depends on the decals, some decals respond well to just a little bit of solvent and others may be entirely solvent proof.

I do recommend that you test the decal solvents on the decal that you are using to determine just how sensitive the decal is to solvents.

Fer what it's worth...

Edited by Mothersworry
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While on the topic of decal application, I thought I'd share a little tip. A couple years ago I picked up one of these decal squeegees in a whim. I was pretty sure it would be more or less useless, but I was making a big order from a hobby shop and it ended up on the pile. It sat ignored in my tool box until I had to apply a bunch of thin pinstripes to my latest build. I struggled with those miserable decals until I pulled the squeegee from the drawer. This thing is brilliant for working the decal in place, working out excess water and air bubbles and wrinkles, and helping those long, thin pinstripes lay down straight and in position. This would work very well for large panel decals, too. The end is a flexible silicone material. Highly recommended for any technical decal job.

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