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Posted (edited)

After numerous setbacks with BMF ,'Ive decided to call this one done ( or at least until I get into town to pick up a fresh chrome pen for touchups ) 

Tamiya black and Nassau blue for the interior . Front bench seat is a scratchbuild using  a spare rear seat . with Scale Motorsports decals 

 

Lindberg kit with some pieces from the Color Me Gone 64 Dodge 

Aftermkt decals which turned out to be extremely fragile once on the body. So they are under a couple coats of Tamiya Clear

Parts box tires ,  Resin AFB carbs and prewired dist for a touch of upgrades underhood . I dont get into a lot of detailing , And I dont do contests . So my builds are for me and me alone.

That said,,,,,Im not 100% happy with it. But Im calling it done and put it in the case and move on. 

 

Hope you like it , comments welcome,,,,good or bad. You're not gonna hurt my feelings one way or the other.

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Edited by gtx6970
  • Like 11
Posted

I like it, nice job on the front seat as it looks great and those decals really set it off.  Even if you're not 100% happy with it, there sure is a lot to like here.  Congrats!

Posted

I really like it.  We are our harshest critics.  Nice seat work.  Shifter looks awfully tall.  Looks like he hit the brakes too hard after a hard short hop burnout and scrubbed some paint off the oil pan and bellhousing (lol).  I hate bmf and am currently experimenting with alternatives.  Thanks for posting.

  • Like 1
Posted

Very nice job Bill on one of my favorite drag car subjects (early 60’s door slammers). I built and posted my attempt at this exact H-P car a while back with an incorrect red interior, I like your correct blue interior version much better as well as the effort you put into incorporating the correct front bench seat. The seat decals really make it pop.
 

I use to mask and airbrush all the stainless trim on model cars using Alclad Chrome lacquer over gloss black enamel or lacquer but have gone with BMF for the last few years. The Alclad method was incredibly labor (and tape) intensive and way too fragile and easy to rub off with even moderate handling. BMF adhesive was troublesome for a few years but it is currently much improved and easier to work with. The two keys I have found is 1) make sure the surface of the frames you’re going to cover are super smooth (you can sand the paint down on just the frames  if you’re careful) and 2) to use a brand-new extra sharp #11 X-acto blade with very light pressure (weight of the knife handle is usually enough). If you’re not happy with the BMF job, just peel it off and try again. In most cases, you can apply the BMF at the end of the build including after bonding the clear glass to the body. Molotow pens can also help on touch-up if required. Don’t give up on BMF, with some practice it can actually be fun and fairly quick.

  • Like 1
Posted

I think I got hold of a bad sheet of BMF  ( bought it off Amazon ) 

 

Ive used the Molotow pens in the past with good results. and is what I will use to touch this one up

 

Actually used one to do all the trim on a Thunderbolt build about 8-10 years ago. And it still looks good 

But Ive learned you have to use a new pen , or risk drip issues. Found that out the hard way earlier this year 

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