Storing decanted paint

[fordf-100]

Hey all a quick question, what are you guys using to store decanted spray paint? I used some glass jars with a screw on plastic lid but apparently it didn’t seal well and the paint kind of went bad pretty quick. Any suggestions or tips?

[yh70]

back when i did de-can spray paint i used the mason jars that people can vegetables and other things in. the lids are metal and have a rubber gasket on them so the paint is sealed inside..... the first time i ever did it no one told me how to do it so i wrapped the can with a old tee shirt then tool a small nail and slowly tapped a hole into the can letting the air out. once the air was out i made a big hole in the can  and thought i got this. nothing to it..boy was i wrong. sure wish someone had told me..i got me a quart class jar and started pouring the paint out of the can. when that paint hit the bottom of that jar the chemical reaction cold paint and the warm air caused it to blow like a volcano all over me. face, arms, shirt, pants & shoes..lol..thank God i was out side when i did it..i have did other cans the same way i just dont pore them that fast . i like to watch the paint do crazy things as it adjust to outside temp..

Edited January 20 by yh70

[NOBLNG]

If the can still works just spray out what you need through a straw into a cup. Then transfer it to your airbrush. Nothing will store the paint as well as the original can. Some guys let the paint gas out before re-spraying it…I don’t think it’s necessary? You do have to let it gas out well before storing it in a sealed container.

[Jon Haigwood]

I seal the glass jars with a latex glove stretched over the top.

[Dave G.]

I decant into airbrush mixing jars, basically universal airbrush jars. The tops have seals inside same as a Testors bottle may have.

Or clean out and save your Tamiya jars, those things seal awesome. I had been tossing them but now save them when empty.

Mason jars I keep solvents in for oil painting. And I have one I keep ipa in for stripping paint. They don't seem to evaporate. These are the ones with metal ring cap that has the thread and the seal cap is a metal disk with neoprene gasket that sits on the jar, you screw the ring down onto it.. Those seal well, the plastic caps not so much.

Edit: either Mason or Ball brands are both good, just get the metal caps

Edited January 20 by Dave G.

[fordf-100]

Thanks guys ! Great tips! The spray cans no longer spray, I’ve tried soaking the nozzles in lacquer thinner, and acetone among others and they won’t unclog, I’m assuming it’s down further in the can. The cans I have are the crappy( my opinion) cans that spray upside down, I always turned my old style cans upside down and sprayed until no paint came out and then cleaned the tip, never a problem. I’m going to get some mason jars and give those a try, from now on I most likely will stick to Tamiya spray and air brush, I’m tired of wasting money on crappy spray cans.

[Dave G.]

4 hours ago, fordf-100 said:

Thanks guys ! Great tips! The spray cans no longer spray, I’ve tried soaking the nozzles in lacquer thinner, and acetone among others and they won’t unclog, I’m assuming it’s down further in the can. The cans I have are the crappy( my opinion) cans that spray upside down, I always turned my old style cans upside down and sprayed until no paint came out and then cleaned the tip, never a problem. I’m going to get some mason jars and give those a try, from now on I most likely will stick to Tamiya spray and air brush, I’m tired of wasting money on crappy spray cans.

I use a bit of everything, from craft paints in Createx transparent base and 4030 for base coating, to actual Createx, Rustoleum 2x decanted, Testors enamels, Tamiya LP thinned with MLT, Tamiya acrylics with the same thinner, and once every four years even some MCW. Vallejo is great for interiors and convertible tops.  All airbrushed. The last time I spray bombed a model was somewhere in the 1970's. I've been building models since 1958.