Fixing scribing mistakes

[countrypapa]

I got a little heavy handed while scribing door jams and they are too deep in spots and rough and I would like to smooth them out. What could I put in them that would be easy to sand. I tried some very thin sprue glue and let flow in but it was very hard to sand. I was thinking about thinning out tamiya putty with lacquer thinner and letting it flow in and leveling out. I don't want to fill them in completely and start  from scratch so any ideas?

[NOBLNG]

Do you have any of the Tamiya primer in the square bottles, or any filler primer? It is pretty thick and may work? It would sand easily.

[Bainford]

I use Mr Surfacer 1000 or 1500, which is basically a lacquer-based liquid filler/primer in a bottle. Since I started using this stuff, I no longer fear scriber-slips; I just apply a drop on offending area, let it cure, then sand it smooth. A quick and easy repair. Note that the Mr Surfacer does shrink quite a bit as it dries, so I place a thick drop right to the damage to be sure there is enough to fill the slip-mark. If not, a second application is quickly and easily done. It dries quite quickly and sands back easily.

For ragged panel lines, I have had some success painting the Mr Surfacer into the groove, letting it set, then carefully scribe a cleaner line. It may help to do this after the stuff has set up, but before it cures fully. Some experimentation will be required to get the timing right. Success may depend on the quality of your scriber.

For panel lines that have been scribed right through the plastic (when you didn't want it to), the best bet might be to glue a strip of .005" thick plastic sheet to the inside of the body at the panel line to give the groove a 'bottom'. Then, if necessary, clean up the groove with some Mr Surfacer.

Mr Surfacer feathers out very nicely. I frequently use it as a final step to any significant body work or putty work. It fills any small scratches and pores in courser fillers. After the body work is done and the filler sanded back, I apply a final coat of Mr Surfacer (just brush it on) then sand it smooth once it cures.

Edited March 17 by Bainford
clarity

[Belugawrx]

I've got a bottle of goo on the bench for just those occasions   I fill an old bottle of Tamiya thin with MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) and drop bits of sprue in it to dissolve...it becomes liquid, or, goopy styrene, which when dry, sands out just like ....styrene.

[Shark]

I use two part automotive body filler, sands easy and doesn't shrink. You can get a small can at different auto parts stores.

[peteski]

You could use CA glue and some mild-acting accelerator (like BSI brand) to fill the mistake.  Then sand and rescribe the fixed area within few hours of the glue hardening.  CA glue continues to harden over time, but within few hours it will be about the same hardness as the surrounding styrene.  But also don't do it right away. It will be too soft. Wait about an hour before working in it.  Good thing is that CA glue (like 2-part putties) desn't shrink like other putties or Goo which use solvent that evaporates.

[Belugawrx]

My goo never shrinks...lol

[bobss396]

I use Bondo spot putty, 1 part. I "cure" it in the dehydrator so it won't shrink later.

I'll re-scribe the line using a dull-ish razor saw held on a very shallow angle.

[countrypapa]

Thanks for the tips, I just happen to be going to a hobby shop to-day a little day trip about 35 miles away so now I have some ideas. I see some ideas I never heard of so I'll give them a try. Thanks again.

[peteski]

  On 3/17/2025 at 8:11 PM, Belugawrx said:

My goo never shrinks...lol

Expand  

While that's funny, the solvent which turns the solid plastic into a liquid Goo *HAS TO* evaporate to get the plastic back into its hard state.  Since liquid (which evaporates) takes up some volume, I guarantee that there will be shrinkage (even if the water was not cold).

Edited March 19 by peteski