Paint question

[JerseeJerry55]

Have a paint question. This morning I sprayed the cab of my Rat Fink Transtar 4070A with two coats of Tamiya Fine Spray primer. Then later on in the day I sprayed two coats of Krylon Short Cuts Gloss White. After letting it dry I inspected the cab and found some areas that are "low spots" that I call them. I guess the best way to describe it is that the areas are not as glosst as some areas of the cab. Any ideas, or suggestions are as always appreciated. Thank you.

Kind regards,

Jersee Jerry 55

[Shark]

My thoughts are maybe the primer was a little thicker in those areas and didn't have enough time to flash off. I don't paint that soon after priming. You might be able to wait a few days and polish it out.

[JerseeJerry55]

4 minutes ago, Shark said:

My thoughts are maybe the primer was a little thicker in those areas and didn't have enough time to flash off. I don't paint that soon after priming. You might be able to wait a few days and polish it out.

Thanks for the suggestions. I actually think I may have painted it in weather that is too hot leading to the following I saw online  Paint drying too quickly: This can lead to a dusty, dry appearance and make it difficult to achieve a good gloss finish. So I really don't want to strip the cab and repaint it so what would be options to correct my painting mishap?

[Shark]

Look at the paint window for recoating. Some products like Krylon say something like you can add a coat up to so many hours in between coats or else you need to wait a day or two for additional coats. I would wait a couple days, lightly scuff it up and put a couple more coats on it. The previous coats will act almost like a barrier since Krylon paints can be a little hot.

Edited 19 hours ago by Shark

[JerseeJerry55]

3 minutes ago, Shark said:

Look at the paint window for decorating. Some products like Krylon say something like you can add a coat up to so many hours in between coats or else you need to wait a day or two for additional coats. I would wait a couple days, lightly scuff it up and put a couple more coats on it. The previous coats will act almost like a barrier since Krylon paints can be a little hot.

Okay great. How do I scuff it up, sandpaper, and if so what grit(s) do I use? I am always fearful in regard to using sandpaper as I always get worried i my be too heavy handed!

Edited 19 hours ago by JerseeJerry55

[Shark]

I usually will wet sand with automotive 3M papers, for something like that 800-1000 grit, lightly with a couple drops of Dawn regular dish liquid in the water. 

[stavanzer]

I have had some Luck scuffing with very fine steel wool.

[JerseeJerry55]

4 minutes ago, stavanzer said:

I have had some Luck scuffing with very fine steel wool.

Alan thanks. So like SOS pads?

 

[slusher]

I would just give it a second coat that’s all..

[StevenGuthmiller]

12 minutes ago, slusher said:

I would just give it a second coat that’s all..

I agree.

just give it another coat or two and polish it out.

Of course, I don’t have any experience with Krylon paint, so there’s that.

 

 

 

Steve

Edited 15 hours ago by StevenGuthmiller

[DJMar]

Since I started building models in the Age of Enamels™, I am one of those who always lets paint dry forever between coats. Even with fast drying Tamiya synthetic lacquers, I give it at least 72 hours before top coat or re-coat. That's probably a little overkill, but I'd rather wait than strip a paint job.

I will echo the suggestion that you let it dry for two days, and shoot another coat over the top. Whether you sand down or scuff the offending areas is up to you, and depends on how rough they are (it's hard to tell from the pics).

[stavanzer]

54 minutes ago, JerseeJerry55 said:

Alan thanks. So like SOS pads?

 

No, just steel wool. SOS Pads have soap in them. But, Steve G, paints a whole lot more than I do. I'd listen to him.

[Straightliner59]

I use a lot of Krylon. I would recoat it. Most Krylon can be overcoated at any time, according to the can. I've found it to be true! I've completed paintjobs in a day, using Krylon.

[Dave G.]

Consider getting yourself an assortment of 2" square micro pads. It costs about 10 buck as Amazon, last I knew. And you have pads from 500 grit on up to 4000 or more in some packs. Just a few drops of water and a 1500 grit pad will smooth out your rough areas. Dry it, wipe down, blow off and re shoot the whole cab.

If you want to try steel wool, I've had great luck with OOO steel wool from the hardware store to remove fuzzies. Just be sure to clean the model off good, since there will be tine steel fibers left in seam lines etc.

However you scuff, do it very lightly in terms of touch. Not much pressure is required. I'm saying all this in regards to paint in general, as I don't paint my models with Krylon. I'm not speaking against Krylon, I don't have much access to that product line where I live, is all. A few decades ago Krylon supply just evaporated around here.. I liked the primers and flat colors for building and structures etc in model railroading, as my boys were growing up.

[JerseeJerry55]

18 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

Consider getting yourself an assortment of 2" square micro pads. It costs about 10 buck as Amazon, last I knew. And you have pads from 500 grit on up to 4000 or more in some packs. Just a few drops of water and a 1500 grit pad will smooth out your rough areas. Dry it, wipe down, blow off and re shoot the whole cab.

If you want to try steel wool, I've had great luck with OOO steel wool from the hardware store to remove fuzzies. Just be sure to clean the model off good, since there will be tine steel fibers left in seam lines etc.

However you scuff, do it very lightly in terms of touch. Not much pressure is required. I'm saying all this in regards to paint in general, as I don't paint my models with Krylon. I'm not speaking against Krylon, I don't have much access to that product line where I live, is all. A few decades ago Krylon supply just evaporated around here.. I liked the primers and flat colors for building and structures etc in model railroading, as my boys were growing up.

Dave,

Good morning and hope you are well. Thank you for the suggestions. Are they like the ones I have attached?

[JerseeJerry55]

7 hours ago, DJMar said:

Since I started building models in the Age of Enamels™, I am one of those who always lets paint dry forever between coats. Even with fast drying Tamiya synthetic lacquers, I give it at least 72 hours before top coat or re-coat. That's probably a little overkill, but I'd rather wait than strip a paint job.

I will echo the suggestion that you let it dry for two days, and shoot another coat over the top. Whether you sand down or scuff the offending areas is up to you, and depends on how rough they are (it's hard to tell from the pics).

DJ yes the pictures are difficult. It's sort of like a hazy finish some areas glossy, and some areas sort of flat looking. I agree I don't like stripping and repainting ESPECIALLY on a $52.00 minimum truck kit. Thank you for your suggestion. Wondering if I can recoat with Rustoleum White?

[JerseeJerry55]

On this Tbird I started a number of years ago (and like a lot of others) I screwed up the paint and put it back in the box. Hopefully this shows the same paint issue I'm having with the Transtar.

[Dave G.]

2 hours ago, JerseeJerry55 said:

Dave,

Good morning and hope you are well. Thank you for the suggestions. Are they like the ones I have attached?

Essentially, yes.

[DJMar]

4 hours ago, JerseeJerry55 said:

DJ yes the pictures are difficult. It's sort of like a hazy finish some areas glossy, and some areas sort of flat looking. I agree I don't like stripping and repainting ESPECIALLY on a $52.00 minimum truck kit. Thank you for your suggestion. Wondering if I can recoat with Rustoleum White?

Personally, I would wait for it to dry another day or so, scuff the whole body with a 2500 or 3000 grit pad, wash it off, and give it another pass with the can.

I found a similar set of those sanding pads at Hobby Lobby about two weeks ago for $5.99 or so, if you have one nearby.

[JerseeJerry55]

1 hour ago, Dave G. said:

Essentially, yes.

Great thanks. I for a moment have contemplated leaving it as is. Then taping off the middle of the body up to the bottom of the roofline, and the top of the area where the headlights are and painting the Red contrast colors. Then applying the Red decals that I have purchased for the project. Thinking it would look kinda weathered. Stiil, on the fence in regard to this.

[JerseeJerry55]

5 minutes ago, DJMar said:

Personally, I would wait for it to dry another day or so, scuff the whole body with a 2500 or 3000 grit pad, wash it off, and give it another pass with the can.

I found a similar set of those sanding pads at Hobby Lobby about two weeks ago for $5.99 or so, if you have one nearby.

DJ thank you. I have 3 Hobby Lobby's within a 20 mile radius of my home. Maybe today I'll get a chance to go. But have to be careful and stay in that specific aisle. After all it's 40% off models week.

[Dave G.]

1 hour ago, JerseeJerry55 said:

Great thanks. I for a moment have contemplated leaving it as is. Then taping off the middle of the body up to the bottom of the roofline, and the top of the area where the headlights are and painting the Red contrast colors. Then applying the Red decals that I have purchased for the project. Thinking it would look kinda weathered. Stiil, on the fence in regard to this.

No. I mean you can always scuff and polish. Just with enamels, to do that you really should wait some weeks. Even to hit it with a second tone I'd wait a few days personally. Regardless, you want the rough areas smooth.

[JerseeJerry55]

These pics show similarities to the issues with the Transtar cab. So there is my poor effort.