3D Printed '57 Nash Ambassador Advice

[Andria H]

Hi all, I'm planning to get one of these as my first full 3D print build. Have settled on a color scheme of Tamiya candy lime over Tamiya primer with carefully masked/painted black sweeps on the side and a black & tan interior.

Any advice on these builds? Cannot afford Revell Chrome and dislike Molotow, so may try Baremetal Foil on the big brightwork parts since my local hobby store has it in the paint aisle and carefully paint/wash the rest. What kind of easily available engine can be doctored up into the stock AMC 327 from the 1/1? Thinking a 1/24 Mopar small block might be an ok start. And for the windows? Guessing to use pop/seltzer bottles or clear deli containers?

Also how to get the tires looking right? Good news is I can hand letter the Nash script or just the capital N monogram in the wheel centers with a new ultrafine red Sharpie. 

[stitchdup]

I would use an acrylic automotive filler primer to begin with and keep the tamiya primer for the later steps. the filler primer reduces the layer lines much better than the tamiya primer. you'll probably have 4 or 5 rounds of filler primer and sanding before you get to the tamiya primer. i like to mask off the detailed areas before using the filler primer to save finer details but on the body trim you dont really need to. I start my sanding with 400 grit and work up to 1000 grit. if any actual filler is needed for support holes or that now is the time to do the filler too. once you have the body prepped to where you're happy with it you can start your normal paint routine. note- i use duplicolour with tamiya and it needs a couple of days between paint types and you might need duplicolour clear too as i've never used tamiya clear over duplicolour

for the tyres get some tamiya rubber black, its fantastic.

on the bumpers i use c1 powders over plastikote aero aluminium. just rub some of the powders onto the dry paint and they take on a darker chrome finish. I've tried foil in the past but i just couldn't get it to look good on the curvey bumpers

[Andria H]

7 minutes ago, stitchdup said:

I would use an acrylic automotive filler primer to begin with and keep the tamiya primer for the later steps. the filler primer reduces the layer lines much better than the tamiya primer. you'll probably have 4 or 5 rounds of filler primer and sanding before you get to the tamiya primer. i like to mask off the detailed areas before using the filler primer to save finer details but on the body trim you dont really need to. I start my sanding with 400 grit and work up to 1000 grit. if any actual filler is needed for support holes or that now is the time to do the filler too. once you have the body prepped to where you're happy with it you can start your normal paint routine. note- i use duplicolour with tamiya and it needs a couple of days between paint types and you might need duplicolour clear too as i've never used tamiya clear over duplicolour

for the tyres get some tamiya rubber black, its fantastic.

on the bumpers i use c1 powders over plastikote aero aluminium. just rub some of the powders onto the dry paint and they take on a darker chrome finish. I've tried foil in the past but i just couldn't get it to look good on the curvey bumpers

appreciate it!

[Fat Brian]

Bare metal foil is a great skill to have in general but I would practice on a scrap body just to minimize the chance of messing up the paint on an expensive and fragile 3d print.

[thatz4u]

one of the people here may have a AMC engine...post in the wanted section...

[Redisetta]

Hello Andria,

Nothing to do about tips on your latest build, which looks really kool. I’m just very happy to see a bright young face digging into this wonderful hobby of ours. I’ve been building all my life off and on  and have tried to get any of my 10 grandchildren interested in the hobby with no luck. Don’t get frustrated when things don’t go the way you planned or you make a mistake and ruin a part or the entire build. It’s just a hobby and it’s supposed to be fun. There’s great advice to be had here, don’t hesitate to ask. 
Enjoy ,

Ray

[espo]

For the engine you could check Google Images of the Nash from that era. They will often give you an option of looking at engines as well as interiors and factory colors that were available.  I think one of the biggest appearance details was the shape of the Valve Covers on the engine. Looking at any pictures may give you a good idea of what they looked like and maybe you can find an engine from another kit of a different subject where you could alter the Valve Covers to appear as a Nash engine of that era. 

[Deathgoblin]

Try Spaz Stix chrome.  I've used it on my Chrysler 300H and it worked well.

[Rodent]

I am not an AMC engine expert, but I have read that all of the JoHan AMC V8s were actually the early engine series that includes the 327, not the later series engine that they should have been. Someone back me up or call me an uninformed liar please 🙂

 

[stavanzer]

Here is a 3D printed 1960's AMC.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/267277025317?itmmeta=01JZHEBE4GFS1N90QQEKSHWV9T&hash=item3e3af3c025:g:wqkAAeSw-ltoQJjr

[dino246gt]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/267277025317?itmmeta=01JZHEBE4GFS1N90QQEKSHWV9T&hash=item3e3af3c025:g:wqkAAeSw-ltoQJjr

That 3D printed engine would be perfect for your build, use the generator instead of the alternator. 

This print give you that choice.