How to do tuck n roll?

[FoMoCo66]

I was wondering what was the best way to do tuck and roll. I've heard evergreen half round works well but what size do I need for the smaller pleats they would use on seats? 1 mm, 2mm, I have no clue? Any advice you may have would be helpful and appreciated.

Here's the car im going to do it on.

Thanks

Elliot

[sidcharles]

if you search on YouTube videos, there's a bunch of modelers who use cosplay 2mm foam sheeting and scribe the tuck 'n' rolls in.

it looks 'okay' @ 40 mph, but close ups leave a bit to be desired. at the least, i would want to use something as a hardener and then paint it. if i used it. which i probably never will.

but it doesn't mean there aren't those who do.

"eye of the beholder" and all that, old chap.

 

 

[FoMoCo66]

Yeah I've seen the foam stuff but to me it leaves a little to be desired. That's why I am looking to the half round styrene.

[Beans]

Tried the foam thing once.  It made the seat size and depth too fat.  

[FoMoCo66]

9 minutes ago, Beans said:

Tried the foam thing once.  It made the seat size and depth too fat.  

Yeah I thought that would happen. I really like the way our fellow member SpeedShift did his interior on his 58 chevy. 

[Rodent]

Might be a dumb answer, but since you are doing a custom interior, I would just eyeball it and use the width that looks right for the effect you are trying to achieve.

I "corrected" the rear seat in a Revell '68 Mustang and I used 1/2 round that matched the front seats. You don't have to do that, and custom interiors usually are pleated further apart than stock interiors.

[stitchdup]

I just use what looks right. usually its 1.5- 2.5mm size i use but i have used other sizes. I prefer evergreen over plastruct for doing tuck n roll but thats probably just because i find it easier to work with. this is a bench seat for a custom ford pick up based on a amt 50 ford bench. its taken 3 full packs to do the bench and i'm at a pack and a half on the door panels but they are  only half done and might take another pack. I put a angle on the rear edge of the strips as otherwise the join between top and bottom cushions looks off. I started with the base on these seats but thats only because the back is split and it makes it easier to line up the back. I also start in the centre so it builds up evenly, and i leave them a touch longer to help with sticking the edges down and trim after its all set. on this seat i'm adding t'n'r around the edges too but you could use tiny rod for piping (which i'm doing too but havent dont yet) I also give it a good 240 sand after as the real thing is rarely half round, and my first primer is filler primer but thats just for the inevitable gaps between the strips and only needs a light dusting. 

 

[FoMoCo66]

56 minutes ago, stitchdup said:

I just use what looks right. usually its 1.5- 2.5mm size i use but i have used other sizes. I prefer evergreen over plastruct for doing tuck n roll but thats probably just because i find it easier to work with. this is a bench seat for a custom ford pick up based on a amt 50 ford bench. its taken 3 full packs to do the bench and i'm at a pack and a half on the door panels but they are  only half done and might take another pack. I put a angle on the rear edge of the strips as otherwise the join between top and bottom cushions looks off. I started with the base on these seats but thats only because the back is split and it makes it easier to line up the back. I also start in the centre so it builds up evenly, and i leave them a touch longer to help with sticking the edges down and trim after its all set. on this seat i'm adding t'n'r around the edges too but you could use tiny rod for piping (which i'm doing too but havent dont yet) I also give it a good 240 sand after as the real thing is rarely half round, and my first primer is filler primer but thats just for the inevitable gaps between the strips and only needs a light dusting. 

 

Thanks, this helps a LOT!

[Nosferatu]

I've used very thin foam plates from the Dollar store they seem to work fine. The plate bottom is very thin and you can do a tuck and roll, diamond pleat or any other design. 

If you think foam is too thick you can grind some of the seat down smooth and add the foam. Paint with acrylic paints as any oil paint will melt the foam.

Dave

[sidcharles]

6 hours ago, FoMoCo66 said:

Yeah I've seen the foam stuff but to me it leaves a little to be desired. That's why I am looking to the half round styrene.

yet you neglected to mention that in your initial inquiry. 

"I was wondering what was the best way to do tuck and roll. I've heard evergreen half round works well but what size do I need for the smaller pleats they would use on seats? 1 mm, 2mm, I have no clue? Any advice you may have would be helpful and appreciated."

i'll endeavor to read between the lines before i off any other suggestions.

although it may spark an idea for someone else reading the thread; who knows?

[Beans]

15 hours ago, Nosferatu said:

I've used very thin foam plates from the Dollar store they seem to work fine. The plate bottom is very thin and you can do a tuck and roll, diamond pleat or any other design. 

If you think foam is too thick you can grind some of the seat down smooth and add the foam. Paint with acrylic paints as any oil paint will melt the foam.

Dave

Do you seal the foam with anything before painting?

[Misha]

In the past I’ve used Evergreen half round strips for upholstery. On the 49 Ford the interior tub offers very faint details so I cut the door sides off and reversed them to apply the custom upholstery. The seats came out of the parts bin with added headrests.

The foam idea is appealing as one could do designs such as diamond tufts, the key is finding material thin enough while stiff enough for embossing it with a pattern. Planning on giving it a try!

Thanks for all the hints & ideas! 
Cheers Misha

[Jon Haigwood]

I have tried both, I think I like the half round better but it may be tough to do Dimond Tuck. 

[sidcharles]

4 hours ago, Beans said:

Do you seal the foam with anything before painting?

the RC airplane guys have been using it for eons:   Special adhesives for foam & plastic – deluxematerials.com

i have used Deluxe Foam Sealer for model railroad terrain made from pink xps foam. worked fine, but i don't think for 

model railroad of cars [non-impact models] it's any more beneficial than Liquitex mediums.

this is a whole line of stuff to stoke the imagination:  

Golden makes a similar line:  https://youtu.be/tlHrrtMhwCI?si=Ag_Ue4LAI1bjPM2b

 

Edited Thursday at 04:44 PM by sidcharles

[Ferbz]

I've used 1.5mm, 2mm, even 2.5mm Evergreen half round for tuck and roll. I prefer the larger 2mm and 2.5mm size as it makes for a little less work 🤪 You can be precise with your build if you like and choose the size based on what custom car era you're going after with your build. I think in general that early 50s tuck and roll was larger than in the later 50s/early 60s? For any particular area, cut as many of your rods first to get them as close as you can to the same length. Then sand all the ends to curve them down giving them that 'sewn in' look once they all get glued down. I also use spark plug wire for piping along the edges. This gets glued down after all the painting is done. Here's the tuck and roll work I did on my custom 59 El Camino: 

[rattle can man]

You could look at model train siding or corrugated roofing products from Plastruct, Evergreen, etc. 

There is also the craft paint method.  Find a pattern you like (kit sourced bed cover, half round glued to sheet stock, etc). Make a mold of it. Brush thick coats of craft paint onto your mold and let dry. remove the paint form your mold, trim to shape, and glue onto you seat, door card, etc.  I've seen several posts under the WIP thread, but have yet to try it myself. Craft paint is flexible when dry, so it might be easy to work with instead of having to bend all of the half round.

[mcs1056]

Quote

On 7/2/2025 at 5:16 PM, Nosferatu said:

I've used very thin foam plates from the Dollar store they seem to work fine. The plate bottom is very thin and you can do a tuck and roll, diamond pleat or any other design. 

If you think foam is too thick you can grind some of the seat down smooth and add the foam. Paint with acrylic paints as any oil paint will melt the foam.

Dave

 

I used the craft foam. The first time, it was too bulky. I stripped it off and tried again. This time I flattened it out a bit with the wife's rolling pin. Then I used a pizza cutter to do the tuckery and rollery. Came out great.

Another option is to cut out the plastic and replace it with the T&R'd foam. Back that up (under or behind the seat or side panel) with putty or sprue goo to get the profile you want.  

[sidcharles]

anyone discard molded styrene seat and 

a. make cushions out of miliput or similar 2 part putty?

or

b. carve from pink xps or similar foam?

seems like either would eliminate adding unnecessary thickness and/ or joints details at the edges.

Edited yesterday at 12:18 PM by sidcharles