Rolls-Royce No Chemicals, No Paint, No Harmful Glues

[David G.]

I would say cut it in if you can. In for a penny... y' know.

One thing I've done when cutting replacement glass is to stick a piece of masking tape to the original, trim the tape to size, remove it and stick it to the replacement material as a template. That way the tape carries the third dimensional curvature of the original over to the two dimensional replacement.

David G.

 

[Anglia105E]

2 hours ago, David G. said:

I would say cut it in if you can. In for a penny... y' know.

One thing I've done when cutting replacement glass is to stick a piece of masking tape to the original, trim the tape to size, remove it and stick it to the replacement material as a template. That way the tape carries the third dimensional curvature of the original over to the two dimensional replacement.

David G.

 

That is indeed excellent thinking on your part David . . . I was watching a YouTube video only yesterday, where the guy was showing how to use masking tape in exactly the same manner as you have just described. The curvature of the Silver Cloud screen is very subtle, but I agree that this third dimension is important.

Here are two photos, one of the Jig that the Rolls-Royce factory used in order to fit Silver Cloud windscreens, and one showing the price of a real screen, which is very reasonable at £648.90 which is US $. 875.28 . . .

David W.

[Anglia105E]

The following photo shows three windscreens / windshields . . . The screen at the top is the Franklin Mint diecast version, with it's chrome surround as part of the screen. The screen in the middle going downwards is the kit supplied screen part that is included in the Entex / Minicraft / Revell kits. The screen at the bottom of these three is my piece of cutout clear plastic film . . .

As part of the process I shall use the masking tape method to determine the precise dimensions for a template . . .

David

[meechum68]

Been following your build and it's been very educational. 

[Anglia105E]

6 hours ago, meechum68 said:

Been following your build and it's been very educational. 

Thank you Michael . . . I shall continue to post more interesting updates during the next few days and weeks as this project develops . . .

David

[Anglia105E]

Using the kit supplied windshield part, I covered this with blue tape and cut around the perimeter of the screen. Removing the blue tape, allowed me to press the tape onto the surface of the clear plastic film . . . Once carefully cut out, following the outline of the tape, the screen was taped onto the inside of the body first of all. Then I mounted the screen onto the outside of the body, again using tape to hold it in place.

I shall study the following photos more closely over the next day or so, and then decide which approach is more realistic, so inside or outside the windscreen frame . . . Then there is a third option available, which would be to mount the glass into the frame, as it would be on the actual 1:1 scale car. This method would require some reduction in the dimensions of the screen by a small amount, and also there would not be much material on which to apply PVA glue, in terms of the screen plastic material . . .

The rear window was also cut and taped to the inside of the body at the rear of the car, but this was done from measurements and not using a tape template.

I was outbid at the end of the Ebay auction for the Revell kit, during the very last minute, and by only one GBP . . . Starting price was only £15.00, and the final sale total was £27.02 . . .

David

[Anglia105E]

The RREC here in England responded to my enquiry message within 12 hours, during the following day. The Rolls-Royce Owners' Club of North America however, have not responded to my enquiry at all during the past seven days . . . There could be any number of reasons for this, and I won't dwell on them.

The Texas license plate for the car that I chose to base my model on was not a valid license plate, and I was not able to validate the UK registration plate either, so I have chosen an alternative motor car for my build . . . This is a 1957 black Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud, registration number 200 DYO which has a verified chassis number of SDD54 . This car appeared in the opening sequence of a British film . The Fast Lady ' in 1962, and I have viewed the film to check this detail.

Also, I checked the DVLA database, which is the official government website used to verify every motor vehicle ever registered historically. The car registered as 200 DYO is taxed until February of 2026, so this actual Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud is still on the road today, since it was built in 1957.

Here are three images obtained from the film, in which the car was driven by James Robertson Justice . . .

David

[Anglia105E]

Today I set about fabricating an exhaust tailpipe for the Silver Cloud, and previously I would have used super glue and Liquid Chrome for this part. However, this time I needed to find a method of making the part without resorting to any solvent or chemical based materials . . . The exhaust system is moulded into the chassis rather crudely, and the rear section of the exhaust ends short of the where the chassis floor ends, This would be correct, except all Silver Cloud cars had a chrome plated tailpipe which extends just beyond the rear bumper, and immediately next to the overrider. This part is not supplied in the kit.

First of all, I measured and cut a 14 mm length of cotton bud stalk, and this was drilled out along it's centre lengthways. Another hole was drilled into the end of the exhaust pipe on the chassis . . . Then a quilting pin was pushed through the hole in the tailpipe, and inserted into the end of the exhaust pipe on the chassis floor. The white tailpipe was covered with Bare Metal Foil, and after cutting off the surplus quilting pin, the tip of the tailpipe was blackened with a permanent marker pen . . .

The end result seems to have worked, and I am pleased because the idea came into my head out of nowhere. I used my Revell hand drill to fabricate the holes. One of the following photos shows the tailpipe as it was done on a previous build of mine ( photo number 101_0399 ) . . .

David

[Anglia105E]

Today I set about fabricating an exhaust tailpipe for the Silver Cloud, and previously I would have used super glue and Liquid Chrome for this part. However, this time I needed to find a method of making the part without resorting to any solvent or chemical based materials . . . The exhaust system is moulded into the chassis rather crudely, and the rear section of the exhaust ends short of the where the chassis floor ends, This would be correct, except all Silver Cloud cars had a chrome plated tailpipe which extends just beyond the rear bumper, and immediately next to the overrider. This part is not supplied in the kit.

First of all, I measured and cut a 14 mm length of cotton bud stalk, and this was drilled out along it's centre lengthways. Another hole was drilled into the end of the exhaust pipe on the chassis . . . Then a quilting pin was pushed through the hole in the tailpipe, and inserted into the end of the exhaust pipe on the chassis floor. The white tailpipe was covered with Bare Metal Foil, and after cutting off the surplus quilting pin, the tip of the tailpipe was blackened with a permanent marker pen . . .

The end result seems to have worked, and I am pleased because the idea came into my head out of nowhere. I used my Revell hand drill to fabricate the holes. One of the following photos shows the tailpipe as it was done on a previous build of mine ( photo number 101_0399 ) . . .

David