Chrome parts

[Kelly]

25 minutes ago, Radretireddad said:

Stay away from black chrome BMF. It’s too glossy for most trim, the adhesive on the back is almost non existent, and the black rubs through if you try to burnish it.

For brush painting I shake my bottle of Tamiya semi gloss black acrylic, remove the cap and put one drop of thinner in the residual paint still in the cap. This makes the paint the perfect consistency for flowing on flat surfaces with a good brush.

The alternative is airbrushing a small piece of chrome BMF with the same acrylic semi gloss black and applying it as usual after the paint dries. Be sure to burnish with something soft alike a cotton swab.

Thanks I am glad I joined this forum You all have been a great inspiration Much respect. I have been down in the dumps after messing up a couple of parts trying to learn, but you all have given me Hope! Thank you, Kelly 

[bobss396]

4 hours ago, Jon Haigwood said:

Bare  Metal does come in black, 

I have some of that. I have used it on stock car grilles.

[Radretireddad]

2 hours ago, Kelly said:

Thanks I am glad I joined this forum You all have been a great inspiration Much respect. I have been down in the dumps after messing up a couple of parts trying to learn, but you all have given me Hope! Thank you, Kelly 

No worries Kelly. Traveling along the learning curve is an important part of the experience and we’re all very happy to help and to welcome you here. Don’t get discouraged and don’t hesitate to ask for help whenever necessary.

[Bainford]

3 hours ago, Kelly said:

Thanks I am glad I joined this forum You all have been a great inspiration Much respect. I have been down in the dumps after messing up a couple of parts trying to learn, but you all have given me Hope! Thank you, Kelly 

Keep at it Kelly. Don't get discouraged. Go into it with the expectation your first few builds will have significant flaws, or bits you aren't happy with. Each one is a learning experience, and the next model will be better as a result. Someone once said that each model is merely practice for the next one. 55 years after my first one, I still find this to be true.

[Kelly]

1 hour ago, Radretireddad said:

No worries Kelly. Traveling along the learning curve is an important part of the experience and we’re all very happy to help and to welcome you here. Don’t get discouraged and don’t hesitate to ask for help whenever necessary.

Thank you so much. I think you all will be hearing from me!!

[Kelly]

1 hour ago, Bainford said:

Keep at it Kelly. Don't get discouraged. Go into it with the expectation your first few builds will have significant flaws, or bits you aren't happy with. Each one is a learning experience, and the next model will be better as a result. Someone once said that each model is merely practice for the next one. 55 years after my first one, I still find this to be true.

Thanks. Back in the 70’s and 80’s I was very much into 24th scale slot cars were I was very successful winning a ton of races in wing cars. I guess I thought I would be good at models But I had to take a step back take a deep breath and realize I am a heck a lot older Now with some medical issues I will get back at it with a different mindset after every one here very kind words of encouragement Thank You All so much!!! 

[Straightliner59]

5 hours ago, Kelly said:

Thanks I am glad I joined this forum You all have been a great inspiration Much respect. I have been down in the dumps after messing up a couple of parts trying to learn, but you all have given me Hope!

Don't feel bad about messing up parts. We've all done it. I do it many times during a project. I do a lot of scratchbuilding. There have been many times, that I've spent an hour or more, making a tiny piece, only to have it spring from the tweezers, and disappear into the ether! Anybody who's done this stuff would likely tell you the same thing. It's taken me decades, to get to the place that I have just come to accept it, and start over, again. Mt dad used to tell me, "It's not your circumstance, it's how you relate, to it." It took me decades to really understand that, too!

[Kelly]

3 minutes ago, Straightliner59 said:

Don't feel bad about messing up parts. We've all done it. I do it many times during a project. I do a lot of scratchbuilding. There have been many times, that I've spent an hour or more, making a tiny piece, only to have it spring from the tweezers, and disappear into the ether! Anybody who's done this stuff would likely tell you the same thing. It's taken me decades, to get to the place that I have just come to accept it, and start over, again. Mt dad used to tell me, "It's not your circumstance, it's how you relate, to it." It took me decades to really understand that, too!

Thanks for sharing your story. Kelly 

[Rossgo]

LOL. I have the shake problem also.  It's like laying a sewer with an earthquake in process. Hang in you will find ways of getting though.

[Deathgoblin]

On 11/28/2025 at 8:16 AM, bobss396 said:

I have cut similar parts apart being careful with a razor saw. Paint and rejoin them after.

Exactly what I did on my Charger that I recently posted.  Separated the front bumper and grill with the back of an Xacto knife, cleaned up the edges.  Fixed the chrome on the bumper and stripped the grill to paint.

[Kelly]

34 minutes ago, Deathgoblin said:

Exactly what I did on my Charger that I recently posted.  Separated the front bumper and grill with the back of an Xacto knife, cleaned up the edges.  Fixed the chrome on the bumper and stripped the grill to paint.

Thanks But I am not very good yet to try that. Kelly 

[Perspect Scale Modelworks]

Hi Kelly. You've had a lot of good info thrown at you so here's some more.

On this project, I would mask the bumper off with a low tack tape like tamiya yellow or something similar that won't disturb the chrome. Then I would cover the top portion in BMF. Burnished it down completely, prime, then spray it black. When dry, carefully scrape off the black from the parts that should be chrome. A black wash or just touch up should cover any imperfections. 

This could be a tedious process but may get the results you're looking for. 

[bobss396]

10 hours ago, Kelly said:

Thanks But I am not very good yet to try that. Kelly 

Got some junk parts to practice on? Of course those always come out perfect...

[Kelly]

17 hours ago, Rossgo said:

LOL. I have the shake problem also.  It's like laying a sewer with an earthquake in process. Hang in you will find ways of getting though.

Hahaha you hit the nail right on the head !!!! Thanks That made my day 

[Kelly]

6 hours ago, bobss396 said:

Got some junk parts to practice on? Of course those always come out perfect...

Thanks I am only on my 3rd build so I don’t have many parts left over But with everyone’s help I’ll figure out something Thanks again to everyone 

[Kelly]

14 hours ago, Perspect Scale Modelworks said:

Hi Kelly. You've had a lot of good info thrown at you so here's some more.

On this project, I would mask the bumper off with a low tack tape like tamiya yellow or something similar that won't disturb the chrome. Then I would cover the top portion in BMF. Burnished it down completely, prime, then spray it black. When dry, carefully scrape off the black from the parts that should be chrome. A black wash or just touch up should cover any imperfections. 

This could be a tedious process but may get the results you're looking for. 

Thanks for your input Yes I have had a lot of great tips so far This forum has helped me so much! Can’t wait for my next project Thanks again to everyone! 

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 11/28/2025 at 9:55 AM, NOBLNG said:

It is just the black area you need to paint so I have two suggestions. One would be to carefully mask and spray paint the black area. Then the paint could be carefully rubbed off the raised script with a Q-tip moistened with the appropriate thinner, similar to the BMF under paint method. Second, if you are brush painting it, would be to very carefully scrape or sand the chrome off the area to be painted. Spraying it should lay down smoothly over the chrome I’m guessing, but you could scuff the area to be painted for added adhesion.

I agree with the masking and spraying option in this circumstance.

The area is very basic and rectangular making it very easy to mask off.

Spray it with a flat enamel and then before it’s completely cured, clean the script and the edges of the trim if necessary with mineral spirits.

Mineral spirits shouldn’t damage the kit chrome, but if you’re concerned about it, cover the S/S script with foil before paint.

Then you can use lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the script if you choose.

Something like this.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Kelly]

2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I agree with the masking and spraying option in this circumstance.

The area is very basic and rectangular making it very easy to mask off.

Spray it with a flat enamel and then before it’s completely cured, clean the script and the edges of the trim if necessary with mineral spirits.

Mineral spirits shouldn’t damage the kit chrome, but if you’re concerned about it, cover the S/S script with foil before paint.

Then you can use lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the script if you choose.

Something like this.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Thanks Wow very nice work Unfortunately my part i don’t think I can save It might go on as is and write it off as a learning experience but not sure yet 

[Bills72sj]

Is that an AMT 67 Chevelle piece? If that is all you need. I can send you one, no charge to help you out. An alternate method to a flat low area such as that is to apply Tamiya panel liner many times over several days to fill in the area until it is blacked out. The fluid will naturally wick into the corners at first so it will take some time to get it all filled in. The nice thing is it will be even and can be done in spite of shaky hands because once you dip the applicator brush in the general area, the thinness of the liquid will take care of the rest. I used this method on my 65 Grand Prix.

[johnyrotten]

8 hours ago, Kelly said:

Unfortunately my part i don’t think I can save It might go on as is and write it off as a learning experience but not sure yet

Kelly, almost any paint mishap can be saved. Worst case, strip the chrome and start over. Amt chrome comes off pretty easily with oven cleaner, and there are many options for "chrome"paints. I'm not a fan of kit chrome, I strip most all of it. This bumper was stripped and airbrushed with fusionfirm, and detailed with thinned testors enamel. The fusionfirm is brushable and cheap, and pretty durable. There's an entire thread about it here on the forum. 

[Kelly]

13 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

Is that an AMT 67 Chevelle piece? If that is all you need. I can send you one, no charge to help you out. An alternate method to a flat low area such as that is to apply Tamiya panel liner many times over several days to fill in the area until it is blacked out. The fluid will naturally wick into the corners at first so it will take some time to get it all filled in. The nice thing is it will be even and can be done in spite of shaky hands because once you dip the applicator brush in the general area, the thinness of the liquid will take care of the rest. I used this method on my 65 Grand Prix.

Thank You that is a very generous offer kind sir! But I have fiddled around with it and is better. I am just going to use as is. Thanks for your offer, but I must decline. I’m am going to set this build aside for a bit. I have been watching videos on window trim using a chrome pen. So I purchased one and did the passenger side and vent window Turned out okay. I moved to the driver side. I did the a pillar and bottom of the vent window But when I started on the vertical part, the fine point of the pen FELL out and a big glob of chrome paint dripped down the door!! I grabbed a paper towel and wiped it off but the damage was done. The pen landed in the trash. So after a couple of days of crying in beer(actually cool aid) I sanded down the body and repainted and cleared it Now there’s entirely too much paint and fender cross flag rear quarter script are almost gone. So I put the body on the chassis. I saw the under glass section and I am going to get my first build I did 3 months ago a 39 Chevy  sedan delivery and I have learned about wash’s and want to do the grill and 2 lower vents and take a few photos and post it on under glass. I did the engine and engine compartment as well as the undercarriage hand painted. I am so sorry for rambling on, but thanks for letting me vent. 
Thank you very much. Kelly 

 

[Kelly]

13 hours ago, johnyrotten said:

Kelly, almost any paint mishap can be saved. Worst case, strip the chrome and start over. Amt chrome comes off pretty easily with oven cleaner, and there are many options for "chrome"paints. I'm not a fan of kit chrome, I strip most all of it. This bumper was stripped and airbrushed with fusionfirm, and detailed with thinned testors enamel. The fusionfirm is brushable and cheap, and pretty durable. There's an entire thread about it here on the forum. 

Wow very nice work Thanks for your words of wisdom I am not talented enough to stripping parts yet. I do appreciate your insight as I do all that I have been in contact with on this forum! I wasn’t aware that the popularity of modeling was so strong! I am so happy that I got into this hobby and have enjoyed reading and looking at everyone’s builds. You all are amazing!!! 
Thanks again. Kelly 

[johnyrotten]

20 minutes ago, Kelly said:

The pen landed in the trash.

Don't necessarily toss the pen just yet. If it's an alcohol based chrome, I've unscrewed them and used the ink with a brush, and airbrushed the ink. The pens do have a tendency to stop working or leak.

[johnyrotten]

3 minutes ago, Kelly said:

Thanks for your words of wisdom I am not talented enough to stripping parts yet

Stripping them is easy. I throw the parts in a zip lock, spray some easy off(yellow can) and wait a bit. Some kit brands take longer than others. Wash everything up with dawn dish soap and a toothbrush and all done. WEAR GLOVES if you try it, and it does stink.

[mcs1056]

If this isn't solved, and you want to keep the good chrome on the bumper, perhaps one of these will work...

1. A fiberglass abrasive pen. 3 ea. for $7 today on Amazon. Search "Fiberglass Scratch Brush Pen."

2. Abrasive sanding sticks. These are heavy grit. $9.99 today on Amazon. Search "Leriton 60 pcs Sanding Sticks Double End."

3. A fairly fine paint brush. Hold the bumper so the "well" you're trying to strip is level. Brush on some paint stripper. Wash and repeat with whatever you'd use to strip the chrome.

4. A disposable micro-applicator. Same process as (3), above, but much smaller. $11.99 on Amazon. Search "400 Regular Micro Applicators - Disposable Dental Brushes."

5. A stick. I cut a piece of a fingernail sanding stick and glued it to a stirring stick. The one pictured is bigger than you'd need, but you can make custom. 

I see no need to chuck that bumper. I hope this, or any of the great ideas presented so far, gets you through this.