Chrome parts

[Kelly]

2 hours ago, johnyrotten said:

Don't necessarily toss the pen just yet. If it's an alcohol based chrome, I've unscrewed them and used the ink with a brush, and airbrushed the ink. The pens do have a tendency to stop working or leak.

Thanks but I already threw in out I am going to buy another one and try it on something else later I liked the finish it left 

[Kelly]

21 minutes ago, mcs1056 said:

If this isn't solved, and you want to keep the good chrome on the bumper, perhaps one of these will work...

1. A fiberglass abrasive pen. 3 ea. for $7 today on Amazon. Search "Fiberglass Scratch Brush Pen."

2. Abrasive sanding sticks. These are heavy grit. $9.99 today on Amazon. Search "Leriton 60 pcs Sanding Sticks Double End."

3. A fairly fine paint brush. Hold the bumper so the "well" you're trying to strip is level. Brush on some paint stripper. Wash and repeat with whatever you'd use to strip the chrome.

4. A disposable micro-applicator. Same process as (3), above, but much smaller. $11.99 on Amazon. Search "400 Regular Micro Applicators - Disposable Dental Brushes."

5. A stick. I cut a piece of a fingernail sanding stick and glued it to a stirring stick. The one pictured is bigger than you'd need, but you can make custom. 

I see no need to chuck that bumper. I hope this, or any of the great ideas presented so far, gets you through this.   

Thank You I like #5 I am going to use the idea on a build coming up soon to do the same type of painting or a wash on a rear bumper panel You’re idea might easy for me to do. Thanks Kelly 

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Kelly said:

Thanks but I already threw in out I am going to buy another one and try it on something else later I liked the finish it left 

If you’re steady enough to use a pen, you’re certainly steady enough to master foil, which is going to give you a much better and undoubtedly more durable finish than a pen ever will.

There’s a reason why the pros use foil.

 

 

Steve

[Kelly]

21 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

If you’re steady enough to use a pen, you’re certainly steady enough to master foil, which is going to give you a much better and undoubtedly more durable finish than a pen ever will.

There’s a reason why the pros use foil.

 

 

Steve

I agree with you wholeheartedly I did get some bmf and I am going to use it on the window trim My hands are steady sometimes! I have watched a few videos of the pros using foil and I feel confident I can do it 

Thanks so much for your input, appreciate it. Kelly 

[Bills72sj]

While you have had a couple of mishaps, do not let it discourage you. It has happened to ALL of us at one point or another. I am glad you have the willingness to learn. Because this is the best place to get an education in modeling. After awhile you will be doing much more "trial" and way less "error".

[Beans]

I have had chrome pens do that to me several times before I finally gave up on them.  Currently I am trying to master the foil.  I seem to have the hardest time getting it to stick.  I also use the pen to glob a bunch out and brush it on sometimes.  

The moral of the story...keep at it.  Every model gets a little better but mishaps will happen...just keep swimming.

 

OH and if you do use the easy off to strip paint don't leave the model in it too long.  I left one overnight once and the next morning had a gooey plastic blob where the body used to be.

[Kelly]

12 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

While you have had a couple of mishaps, do not let it discourage you. It has happened to ALL of us at one point or another. I am glad you have the willingness to learn. Because this is the best place to get an education in modeling. After awhile you will be doing much more "trial" and way less "error".

Thanks With the response I have received here I am definitely getting the education I need Everyone has been so helpful 

[Kelly]

5 hours ago, Beans said:

I have had chrome pens do that to me several times before I finally gave up on them.  Currently I am trying to master the foil.  I seem to have the hardest time getting it to stick.  I also use the pen to glob a bunch out and brush it on sometimes.  

The moral of the story...keep at it.  Every model gets a little better but mishaps will happen...just keep swimming.

 

OH and if you do use the easy off to strip paint don't leave the model in it too long.  I left one overnight once and the next morning had a gooey plastic blob where the body used to be.

Thank you Foil is on the table I am going to try it when I get back to the build 

[bobss396]

I used to be real good at foiling. But vent windows on many builds I see on otherwise great builds on contest tables look like Wrigley gum wrappers. No offense to anyone. Most vent windows are out-of-scale anyways.

I'm going to try that liquid foil on my next detailing attempt. I'll practice on something first. I have a steady hand and lots of Tamiya tape.

I just did a stock car, outlined the glass with one of those silver AK paint pens. I have them in a few flavors. 

[peteski]

1 hour ago, bobss396 said:

But vent windows on many builds I see on otherwise great builds on contest tables look like Wrigley gum wrappers. No offense to anyone. Most vent windows are out-of-scale anyways.

I'm going to try that liquid foil on my next detailing attempt.

Since, as you mentioned the molded frames are already out of scale, how will painting them with bright paint make them look more in-scale than foiled?

[Chariots of Fire]

Most vent windows back in the day were surrounded by a black rubber gasket.  So outline the edge of the window with a black sharpie and just use the chrome to paint the face of the post between the vent and the main window glass.  That should cut down on the amount of chrome and make the window look more to scale.

[StevenGuthmiller]

8 hours ago, bobss396 said:

I used to be real good at foiling. But vent windows on many builds I see on otherwise great builds on contest tables look like Wrigley gum wrappers. No offense to anyone. Most vent windows are out-of-scale anyways.

I'm going to try that liquid foil on my next detailing attempt. I'll practice on something first. I have a steady hand and lots of Tamiya tape.

I just did a stock car, outlined the glass with one of those silver AK paint pens. I have them in a few flavors. 

While you may be correct about vent window scale, (undoubtedly due to strength considerations) poorly foiled vent windows, (as with any other poorly done foil job) is entirely because of bad application by the modeler.

Vent windows are no different than any other surface that you might apply foil to.

They just take a little more time and thought, and often, patience may not be a strong suit for some.

 

 

Steve

[Kelly]

9 hours ago, bobss396 said:

I used to be real good at foiling. But vent windows on many builds I see on otherwise great builds on contest tables look like Wrigley gum wrappers. No offense to anyone. Most vent windows are out-of-scale anyways.

I'm going to try that liquid foil on my next detailing attempt. I'll practice on something first. I have a steady hand and lots of Tamiya tape.

I just did a stock car, outlined the glass with one of those silver AK paint pens. I have them in a few flavors. 

Hi I just tried bmf on my first build yesterday on the sides of the hood along with trying my first time using a wash on the grill and engine pieces I am going to post it over on the “under glass “ section for my first time 

A big thanks to everyone that I have heard from through my learning experience The response has been overwhelming and is greatly appreciated!! 
Thanks. Kelly 

[Kelly]

7 hours ago, Chariots of Fire said:

Most vent windows back in the day were surrounded by a black rubber gasket.  So outline the edge of the window with a black sharpie and just use the chrome to paint the face of the post between the vent and the main window glass.  That should cut down on the amount of chrome and make the window look more to scale.

Hi Thanks for your interest. My brother and myself both had 67 chevelle’s in the late 70’s but honestly I don’t remember about the vent windows. But I love your idea and I will being doing that!

Thanks. Kelly 

[Kelly]

1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

While you may be correct about vent window scale, (undoubtedly due to strength considerations) poorly foiled vent windows, (as with any other poorly done foil job) is entirely because of bad application by the modeler.

Vent windows are no different than any other surface that you might apply foil to.

They just take a little more time and thought, and often, patience may not be a strong suit for some.

 

 

Steve

So that’s not a real car? Wow! So nice! 
Thanks for sharing 

Kelly