What glues do you use

[gray07]

I have been building since the 70s and ive always used testers tube glue, my questions is what do you use also what glue do you use with evergreen plastic , what glue do you use for resin, i heard somebody say they use clear glue what is that. If all this has been answered iam sorry for asking then. Iam trying to update myself. Thank you

[Mercman]

For the Evergreen plastic try Tenax, or another brand suitable for that type of styrene. On resin 5 Minute epoxy, or a good super glue will work.

[MrObsessive]

When doing bodywork or basic building, I use Ambroid Pro Weld for styrene. Tenax isn't a favorite of mine because it evaporates too dang quick for me. Some swear by it which is okay.

For windows you either want to use "white glue" such as Krystal Klear, or one of the other brands which I can't remember right now (Formula 500??). 5 min. epoxy is also great for doing glass. NEVER use glue meant for styrene on clear glass!! You'll end up with a mess as well as a ruined windshield or backlite.

Epoxy should also be used when doing exterior attachments when it comes to final assembly. Once again you want to avoid regular glue as much as possible for final assembly. One wrong slip and you've just ruined a good paint job, or ruined a part which is beyond salvage.

[Zoom Zoom]

For raw styrene to styrene bonds (kit plastic or Evergreen) you can't go wrong w/Ambroid, Tenax, Tamiya Extra Thin, Testors liquid cement. Tube glue is too slow for my taste, and older builds have sink marks in the body over areas I used the tube glue; it took years for the glue to do it's damage and who knows if it ever really cures?

For resin or painted parts in general medium or thick superglue with accelerator (quick bond, accelerator negates fogging).

For glass & emblems, Formula 560 canopy glue, Microscale Micro Krystal Kleer, Testors clear parts cement...or even strong double-sided tape (there's a brand at the craft stores that is absolutely ideal for this; cut/apply thin strips to the hidden areas of glass...it's very, very strong & no glue problems at all). I use the canopy glue on a lot of exterior emblems/parts because any excess wipes up with water before it sets completely. And the canopy glue is very strong, but if you need to de-bond it, you can apply a drop of water to the joint & wait for it to soak in, and the glue will soften. Quite handy, actually.

For high-strength bonds use epoxies. 5 minute is usually sufficient.

[Volunteer1816]

When doing bodywork or basic building, I use Ambroid Pro Weld for styrene. Tenax isn't a favorite of mine because it evaporates too dang quick for me. Some swear by it which is okay.

For windows you either want to use "white glue" such as Krystal Klear, or one of the other brands which I can't remember right now (Formula 500??). 5 min. epoxy is also great for doing glass. NEVER use glue meant for styrene on clear glass!! You'll end up with a mess as well as a ruined windshield or backlite.

Epoxy should also be used when doing exterior attachments when it comes to final assembly. Once again you want to avoid regular glue as much as possible for final assembly. One wrong slip and you've just ruined a good paint job, or ruined a part which is beyond salvage.

Great Info! I have had problems with the Testors Tube Glue "letting go" after years (Old Models start falling apart). Has anyone else experienced this as well? Will these other glues/adhesives prevent this?

Thx!

[MonoPed]

I used to use Tenax, but can't find it anywhere. Picked up a bottle of Plastruct Bondene, and it seems to work pretty well. Also use Zap CA, 5 minute epoxy, and have recently become a big fan of Formula 560 Canopy Glue

[Zoom Zoom]

I find it pretty amusing that I had bought a number of Maisto unassembled diecast models a few years ago & they came with big tubes of Testors tube glue

I have about 4 or 5 of these tubes, and I haven't used tube glue in close to 20 years

Guess it's time for me to spread the wealth at one of my club meetings...someone will want 'em, I'm sure

[1955chevy]

I use Ambroid Pro Weld, 3 sec super glue, a big fan of 5 minute epoxy.

This is a trick I learned years ago and use it for basic sub-assemblies

like engine halfs, seats and rear ends etc

I mix 50/50 Testors liquid and tube glues

It is thick enough to brush and thin enough to spread around evenly

like engine halfs and there are no strings attached. Sounds strange but it works for me.

sounds

[charlie8575]

I like Testors tube cement for assemblies I have to "fiddle" with to get to work, and use the liquid for most other purposes.

Periodically, I'll use superglue for something if the regular plastic cement doesn't want to hold. For the GTO I'm building now, for example, a couple of things will need to be re-secured, so I'm going to do it with superglue because of the way the assemblies are going together...I need a quick, strong, reasonably secure bond that's pretty much guaranteed in a couple of tight areas.

I'm going to try the clear parts cement next time I have some windows, etc. to put in. I've not heard a single bad thing about it. I never had much luck with white glue bonding styrene, so this might be a better solution.

Charlie Larkin

[MikeMc]

Bill and Bob hit it 100%

I also use the "white" glues for final assy and always to do glass. I use both Tacky glue and Ultimate water based

along with epoxie and tenax. some ca for those ##*!!* heres some of them

[hellonwheelz3]

Bill and Bob hit it 100%

I also use the "white" glues for final assy and always to do glass. I use both Tacky glue and Ultimate water based

along with epoxie and tenax. some ca for those ##*!!* heres some of them

Does anyone know where to get ambroid pro-weld online? I can't find it anywhere, whether its my LHS or online?