Lownslow Posted January 10, 2010 Posted January 10, 2010 stop using laquer thinner, get some acrylic enamel thinner, why?. because it can break the paint down better than laquer will. the ratio is 3 thinner/1 paint keep it mixed cause the pearl settles fast. i spray at 20 psi you can go higher but why bother.
RacinRay88 Posted January 10, 2010 Posted January 10, 2010 wow very nice!! i wish i had an airbrush or even knew how to work one...
Longbox55 Posted January 10, 2010 Posted January 10, 2010 That's a sweet paint job! RacinRay88, an airbrush isn't really as hard to use as one might think. Sure, it takes a little practice to get the best results, but if you can rattle can, you can use an airbrush. I remember the first time i used one. It was on a Palmer (?) 1:32 scale '32 Ford. Painted Testors sapphire blue. Yeah, it had runs and mottling, but it turned out well enough that I never turned back. In fact, the next one I did (an AMT '32 Ford) was not only airbrushed, but was painted a custom mixed color, something you can't do with rattlecans. get yourself a basic inexpensive airbrush to start with, trust me, you'll like it.
cruz Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 That's right, there is no science on how to use an airbrush, it's just something that you have to go out and purchase and start using, anyone can learn in just a few days once you start playing with the paint and air mixtures plus, it's a lot more fun than cans!!!
george 53 Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 LoLo, whered you get the little graduated cups from? would an Auto Paint store carry them both? I mean the thinner AND the cups???
Jon Cole Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 I think a good way to learn mixing paint without wasting kit bodies is to spray engine blocks. Also want to sand out those seams down the middle (especially the oil pan) I have a bunch of those cups, free. They used to package Crystal Light drink mix in those (no longer tho), but some 'store brands' still do. And, the drink is sugar free!
Longbox55 Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 You can get those cups from a medical supply store. They list them as Dose Cups.
Lownslow Posted January 12, 2010 Author Posted January 12, 2010 LoLo, whered you get the little graduated cups from? would an Auto Paint store carry them both? I mean the thinner AND the cups??? i get them here http://www.marketlabinc.com/
Guest snapper Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 Thanks for the tips on this thread - it came just at the right time for me. I'm almost to the point of my first airbrush job (a few little things to work out and waiting on the right temp), and I'm hearing differing opinions about mixing. I'm starting out with a single action siphon feed. For paint mixing, I have heard most say the consistency of milk, but I would like to measure. I am thinking of a 60 Paint / 40 Thinner ratio (or 3 to 1 as mentioned)? And do you consider different ratios for different kinds of paints such as with lacquers as opposed to enamels? Thanks in advance for any help or for any directions to previous posts/additional tutorials.
MikeMc Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 Thanks for the tips on this thread - it came just at the right time for me. I'm almost to the point of my first airbrush job (a few little things to work out and waiting on the right temp), and I'm hearing differing opinions about mixing. I'm starting out with a single action siphon feed. For paint mixing, I have heard most say the consistency of milk, but I would like to measure. I am thinking of a 60 Paint / 40 Thinner ratio (or 3 to 1 as mentioned)? And do you consider different ratios for different kinds of paints such as with lacquers as opposed to enamels? Thanks in advance for any help or for any directions to previous posts/additional tutorials. until you know what your paint choice is you can not guess . I shoot lacquers most are at a 1/1 ratio. When I decant rattlecan lacquers no thinner is needed.....But think of milk...2% . swirl it in a glass...that is what works in airbrushes...to thin or too thick they each look awfull. so add some color in a jar. measure out thinner and add till you get it right...then you know how much to add in the future. Part of great paint is great notes!!!
Blake Rogers Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 i don't understand the mixing 3:1??? etc can some one tell me about that thanks
Blake Rogers Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 also what u guys think of the Testors mighty mini? system
Lownslow Posted January 13, 2010 Author Posted January 13, 2010 i don't understand the mixing 3:1??? etc can some one tell me about that thanks 3 parts thinner : 1 part paint. it helps break the paint down to that milk state
Lownslow Posted January 13, 2010 Author Posted January 13, 2010 also what u guys think of the Testors mighty mini? system dont buy lol, im serious.
Gregg Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 I am curious about using the enamel thinner/reducer I have always used lacquer thinner. I will have to try this.
Longbox55 Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 Can't give an opinion myself on the Mighty Mini, as I've never used one, but for someone starting out, a Paasche Model H is very hard to beat. That's what I started with, and I know lots of guys that use one. I still use my H, mostly for primer work or touchups on my 1:1s, it's been beat to death, but it's still going. I use a Model V dual action for my models now, and am very pleased. On a side note, If you want an inexpensive airbrush to start out woth, try the Central Pneumatic that they sell at Harbor Freight. I picked up one a while back just to do primer and basecoat work, but decided to give it a try on a finish paint job. Although it didn't turn out as well as I would have liked (experimantal paint, don't ask), the airrush itself worked flawlessly. i would definetly suggest it as a starting out dual action.
Blake Rogers Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 dont buy lol, im serious. i did a while ago never used it lol why whats wrong with it lol
Blake Rogers Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 Can't give an opinion myself on the Mighty Mini, as I've never used one, but for someone starting out, a Paasche Model H is very hard to beat. That's what I started with, and I know lots of guys that use one. I still use my H, mostly for primer work or touchups on my 1:1s, it's been beat to death, but it's still going. I use a Model V dual action for my models now, and am very pleased. On a side note, If you want an inexpensive airbrush to start out woth, try the Central Pneumatic that they sell at Harbor Freight. I picked up one a while back just to do primer and basecoat work, but decided to give it a try on a finish paint job. Although it didn't turn out as well as I would have liked (experimantal paint, don't ask), the airrush itself worked flawlessly. i would definetly suggest it as a starting out dual action. ok thanks lol ill look into those thats why i love this site lots of INFO
Blake Rogers Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 3 parts thinner : 1 part paint. it helps break the paint down to that milk state ok i get that kinda of lol how much is 3 parts and one part lol srry to sound dumb lol
WickedWelder Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 Whats a dual action airbrush? do you have to have a compressor to use an airbrush? i have always wanted to get one, but never knew anything about them. this a good thread for first time airbrush users(like me..lol)
Blake Rogers Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 Whats a dual action airbrush? do you have to have a compressor to use an airbrush? i have always wanted to get one, but never knew anything about them. this a good thread for first time airbrush users(like me..lol) same here lol i wish i had the new issue's of fine scale modeler there doing a big spread on them
crazyjim Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 I've heard of people using the propel stuff in a can, a spare tire, and an air tank instead of a compressor. I've also heard that the air compressor should have an air tank on it. I have a badger 150 and a no air tank compressor that I've used only a couple of times. Recently I purchased a compressor with a 3 gallon tank and have it all set up on my paint booth. Christmas brought me a bunch of HOK paint. I have some nail polish laying around. I think all I need is warmer weather. If anyone is interested in my old compressor, I'd be willing to trade it for 3 complete, unbuilt kits.
Longbox55 Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 On a basic single agtion airbrush, the trigger only controls the amount of airflow, but not the amount of paint. Most have a fixed paint flow nozzle, but some, like the Model H, can have the paint flow adjusted, though the trigger still only controls the airflow. On a dual action, the trigger controls both the air and paint flow. This alows for much more precise control over how much paint it laid down.
sak Posted January 14, 2010 Posted January 14, 2010 Lowslow, would you say the enamel thinner works better than even acetone? Jeff
Lownslow Posted January 16, 2010 Author Posted January 16, 2010 Lowslow, would you say the enamel thinner works better than even acetone? Jeff yes because it has a longer dry time. average dry time is 1 to 2 hours
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