Ambroid help

[67PontiacGTO]

I bought some ambroid pro weld a month or so ago and I am having the hardest time getting it to stick to anything. It just wount hold on bare plastic, painted surfaces( it melts away the paint) turned aluminum to plastic. I just cant figure the darn thing out, it cant be that hard. Some one please help. This delay is holding me up big time. I thought about trying Tenax but I am just unsure.

Thanx,

Benjamin

[Zoom Zoom]

It is only meant to glue styrene to styrene...gluing plastic parts together before paint. It's not meant for general kit construction.

[george 53]

Ambroid is some of the BEST glue around! It's ALL i use. don't realy like Tenax(it dries TOO fast!) But Zoom is right, it's ONLY for plastic to plastic BEFORE you paint. I've never used it on PE to plastic or anything else BUT plastic. Just use it spareingly unless you REALLY want a mess. I've used it with the brush, or the long tube thingie the does the pin point applications. Works great for me, I've NEVER had trouble with it.

[Foxer]

The trick is to hold the two parts together and then apply it using a brush or some other tool, as George mentions. It will run between the two pieces and weld the joint.

[mountaindewd]

Everybody refers to it as a glue. I wouldn't call it a glue as it doesn't glue anything, it instantly melts plastic at the surface and just below allowing the plastic to bond together. Take a lighter and melt the ends of 2 pieces of plastic then stick them together. That would be similar to what the Ambroid and Tenax does. They just use a chemical reaction to melt the plastic rather than heat.

Don't leave it open for too long at a time. Breathing the vapors for too long will play hell on your sinuses. I learned this the hard way....twice.

Edited January 17, 2010 by mountaindewd

[CAL]

If it Pro Weld it is the exact same stuff as Tenax: Methylene Chloride.

[CAL]

The trick is to hold the two parts together and then apply it using a brush or some other tool, as George mentions. It will run between the two pieces and weld the joint.

+1

It works best when you wick it in the joint

[67PontiacGTO]

Thanx yall helped me out alot. I have some of the glue in a brown bottle (annies original tacky is what i believe its called)you buy@wally world. Is that good for general kit construction. It just takes a little but of time to dry. I like it compared to superglue cause it give me time to work with the piece if need be and dries clear. Is this good qualities for model glue.

Benjamin

[Art Anderson]

Thanx yall helped me out alot. I have some of the glue in a brown bottle (annies original tacky is what i believe its called)you buy@wally world. Is that good for general kit construction. It just takes a little but of time to dry. I like it compared to superglue cause it give me time to work with the piece if need be and dries clear. Is this good qualities for model glue.

Benjamin

The stuff you mention is "Alene's Tacky Glue" which is a tacky version of good old Elmer's (really, it is!). It's OK for wood, paper, card stock--anything that's porous, but doen't work that well for joining plastic parts. Thinned out with water, though, it can be used to glue down aluminum foil for foiling chrome trim, and it does hold headlight lenses in place, without scarrring or fogging them.

Art

[Helipilot16]

I bought a gallon of methyl ethyl ketone and use it just like Tenax or Ambroid. The way it works is it goes into the gap between parts using capillary action. If you can't get any of these to work, use Testor's in the triangular black plastic bottle. Find it at any hobby shop or Michaels.