quality paint finishing

[71drolds]

i just finished a rattle can paint job on my first model in a long time and i was never very good at doing a really nice finish. the orange peel isnt horrible, but its there. i really want this one to turn out nice as it is a model of what i want my 1:1 to look like. without going really over the top, what are some finishing steps or products i can use to get rid of some of the orange peel and really make the black paint look deep?

also, im going for a flat black stripe over gloss black finish. is there anything i can do to dull down the black stripes from the way they are on the decal sheet? im using keith marks decals. i thought of masking around them on the car and spraying a flat clear, but some of the stripes are just to intricate to tape around. i also thought of using that type of brush on mask, but ive never used that. this is a crucial part of this build that needs to look right. any help?

[RJWood]

You can find the Micro-mesh polishing kit here, click on the link: http://www.micromark.com

In the search box put item# 80939 Hope this is of some help.

I tried to link directly to the page but it was not working, for some reason.

If you need more info, send me a PM.

Ron

Edited February 2, 2010 by RJWood

[71drolds]

THANKS FOR the tip. if i dont spend anything on ebay this week, i'll have to get that.

[Casey]

The Micro Mesh polishing kit is the great equalizer. When used properly, it makes even a mediocre paint job look fantastic.

For the decals, you might try spraying a few mist coats of Testors Dullcote or similar flat clear coating before cutting them out and applying them. Definitely try it on a unused section of the decal sheet first, though.

[Ddms]

Start by wetsanding with 2000 grit paper. Be sure to flatten down any orange peel. Then apply Tamiya Coarse compound. Look very carefully to see if there is still any OP or other paint texture. If there is, you can either keep compounding that area or hit it with 2000 again. When the finish is perfectly smooth - no paint texture of any kind - move up to Tamiya Fine. That will produce a nice shine, but not as glossy as you'll get if you take it to the next level with Tamiya Finish.

That's it! As you can tell, I'm not a believer in multiple-grit micro polishing. I think the 2000+Tamiya method is easier, faster and produces a fantastic shine.

[cruz]

In my humble opinion, nothing works better than the Micro Mesh System when used correctly!! I like to use Maguiar's cleaner wax after using the Micro Mesh System and finish off with a quality chamois to remove the wax!!

[weasel]

what they all said, AND/OR, Novus #2 polish after using the 2000 wet, i also use the 3400,4000,6000 from the polishing kits...smooth as glass and shiny as a mirror...finish off with The Treatment model wax...

Edited February 10, 2010 by weasel

[71drolds]

ok i got the micro mesh kit. i wet sanded the car with every grade of paper changing my direction everytime. i got out most of the orange peel, but now i cant get the shine back. im using the polish in the kit. wheres the mirror finish?

[Zoom Zoom]

Are you buffing the paint with the polish? Or just wiping it on, wiping it off like car wax? The polish has to be applied with some elbow grease. Buff it out, the friction is what causes the paint to "melt" into itself, getting the high gloss. Use the softest polishing rag you have, buff in a circular motion. I didn't like the Micromesh polish. I like Novus #2 or Meguiars Scratch X better, or even Tamiya coarse & fine compound.

[71drolds]

im about to through it across the room in frustration so i'll chanel that anger into harder buffing.

[71drolds]

zoom zoom, i just happened to have some meguiars scratch x and tried it on a test piece. it looked awsome! i sanded a little to heavy on the good model, so i sprayed it with wax remover and put a new coat of paint on it and i'll start the whol;e process again. how do you get the dried wax out of the door jambs?

[shucky]

You could use a toothbrush and some luke warm water and gently scrub away at the door lines, or you can use a toothpick to scribe at the door lines. I do this to remove all the gunk when I'm working at primer.

[wayneman]

I am pretty new here as well and I posted basically the same question as you earlier in the day. I took the responses that you got along with some information that I read posted by "Mr. Obsessive" a while back and just tried it. It worked great. I was also looking for that 1:1 mirror image. What I did was wet sand (with a little dishwashing detergent in the water)with 8,000 then up to 12,000 grit paper. I dried it and then used the micro mesh liquid (I'm not sure what you call it) and used it. What I had done wrong in the past was put it on and then go to a clean spot on the cloth. Tonight, I continued to use the spot where I had put the liquid on the cloth and go in little circles . It took awhile but it came out looking just like I wanted it to. I am not an authority but I hope that this works for you as well as it did for me.