Noob question

[macs_rock]

What kind of glue should I use on clear parts? And can I find the instructions for Revell's miami vice testarossa?

Thanks!

[astroracer]

If you are carefull you can use plastic cement. Tape the window in place then carefully glue just the edge. It doesn't take a lot of glue. You can also use Elmers white glue if you would like. Once again, tape the window in place as it will need the support. The white glue has a longer drying time.

Mark S.

[Wayne Buck]

White glue would be the better choice as it doesn't eat into the plastic.

I use Pacer formula 560 canopy glue for clear parts and it works awesome.

I know a lot of others here like it too for this purpose.

[Harry P.]

White glue is the safest, as it won't hurt the plastic, and if you goof up you can remove the window and wash the glue off with warm water.

You can also use clear 2-part epoxy. Epoxy won't hurt the plastic either, and is a lot stronger than white glue.

I've also used clear enamel paint as "glue." I tape the glass in place, then flow some clear enamel along the edge of the "glass" with a small brush and let capillary action draw the clear into the joint. But you have to be careful not to get the clear on the glass area where it would be seen.

Do NOT use CA (superglue) because it reacts with the clear plastic and forms a whitish haze on it. Also, with superglue you get only one chance. You mess up, you lose. White glue, epoxy or clear enamel will give you the time to make sure the glass is in place properly and allow you to make minor adjustments before the glue dries.

[Stang67]

I never have problems with Testors Clear Parts cement. Hobby store.

[Ddms]

  On 2/21/2010 at 11:43 PM, Harry P. said:

...I've also used clear enamel paint as "glue."

Clear acrylic works too. And, while it may be yellow and it may be Testors, Testors Clear Parts cement also does a surprisingly nice job. That said, Formula 560 is still the most awesomest.

The deal about "drying clear" is sort of a red herring. I don't want any cement drying on visible portions of my clear parts, even if it is clear. So the main concern is whether a cement will damage the plastic or be very hard to remove if it does get on those visible areas. For those reasons, plastic cements and superglues are to be avoided.

Edited February 22, 2010 by Ddms

[crazyjim]

I use Krystal Klear for all transparent parts - window glass, headlights, taillights, side marker lights. It can also be used on gauges to get the 1:1 clear cover on the gauge face.

[Zoom Zoom]

Formula 560 is my choice 95% of the time. Otherwise epoxy, or sometimes I can use some very neat double sided adhesive I found at Michael's.

Stay away from superglues & styrene cements. Too much inherent danger; can and will permanently damage plastic and or surrounding paint if there are any mistakes. Formula 560, epoxy, Krystal Kleer, all excess can be wiped clean w/damp towel or cotton swab before it sets. Won't damage paint. Elmer's is far too weak for a good bond. Formula 560 Canopy Glue looks like Elmers, but dries 10,000 times stronger, and has a bit more stick when it is wet.

[tifosi]

Has anyone tried the watch crystal cement from Micro Mark? It says on the web site that uncured excess can be cleaned with alcohol, and dries in fifteen minutes.

[Mooneyzs]

  On 2/22/2010 at 1:39 PM, crazyjim said:

I use Krystal Klear for all transparent parts - window glass, headlights, taillights, side marker lights. It can also be used on gauges to get the 1:1 clear cover on the gauge face.

This is the same exact glue I use for all of my Glass, Headlight and taillights. I highly recommend this stuff.

[Eric Stone]

  On 2/22/2010 at 12:49 AM, Stang67 said:

I never have problems with Testors Clear Parts cement. Hobby store.

Same here. I apply it, then clamp/clothespin/tape the windshield into place and let it sit for a while. Never had any problems. It's also good for headlights and taillights.

[macs_rock]

Thanks guys! I was using elmers, but it didn't dry, and I didn't feel like using both hands to hold the glass in place. I'm putting in the sleeper window of Revell's Kenworth W900. I'll try to post some pics when I finish, and some WIP pics I took.

[Jon Cole]

Some thing to consider if you like... use a Post-It note to hold the window as you insert it in position. Or use Post-Its to "mask" off the glass as you handle it.

My favorite clear adhesive is two part epoxy, if any excess squeezes out, I wait for it to partially cure to rubber cement consistancy, and use a toothpick to peel it up.

Thanks for reading.

[macs_rock]

I like your idea with the Post Its. I'll try that and see what I can do.