Need pointers on paint detailing a firewall

[Monty]

I've got a firewall with some decent molded-in wiring and I'd like to see your opinions on the best procedure(s) for paint detailing small lines like these.

The firewall will be painted flat black per factory specs, and I'll be supplying larger items such as heater hoses.

[Harry P.]

A very small brush and a steady hand!

If you were painting the firewall body color, you could "paint" the molded in wires with colored Sharpies, but since the firewall will be black, the only way to highlight those molded-in wires is by painting them or maybe using a colored gel pen (might take several coats from the gel pen to get opaque coverage over black, though).

I've seen sets of 6 different colored gel pens on sale at Office Max and Office Depot. Might be worth a shot.

[beefheart22]

I've used Mark's scraping method using a sharpie to color the wire moldings to a high degree of success.

[MRCIVICWITHSTYLE]

I use a Tooth pick and shave it down then dip just the tip in the paint hit on a finger to get a lot of the paint off then run it over the Molded Wires

[Wayne Buck]

I like to use sharpies when I can. If markers are not an option, I'll use a good quality, small paint brush (no bristles sticking out of it) with kind of a flat, chisel shape to it.

Dip the brush in the paint and then brush most of it off so a bunch of paint doesn't pour out of it when you touch something. Hold the brush almost parallel to the firewall and very lightly and carefully use the side of the brush on the raised wires/hoses.

[Monty]

Mark, I've been watching your tutorial, and I'm glad we're on the same page as far as wire-painting techniques go. I've been doing something similar for years - I use one of the brighter MM non-buffing Metalizers such as Aluminum and lightly brush it over the surface of the "wiring" on the firewall etc. (Sharp 10/0 brush required!) As you probably know, these paints are about twice as thin as a standard enamel, so they flow nicely and cover well without as much build-up to paint over. Plus, the brighter shades of the Metalizers allow shades like white, yellow and orange to be used more effectively.

A friend of mine recently told me about the micro-tip Sharpies: http://www.sharpie.com/enUS/Product/Sharpie_Micro_Permanent_Marker.html They're about $6.00 for a set of 12 at Wallyworld, so they're not going to blow your modeling budget. I can definitely see them being useful for doing the wiring on lighter colored firewalls etc.

The idea of adding your own wiring could provide excellent results provided you nail the scale and the routing of the molded-in wiring. Google images is your friend.

My thanks to all who responded. I've been away from building for about 10 years and wanted to see if any radical changes in detailing techniques had occurred. I have recently started my "comeback kit" and I'm pleased to report I still seem to have my "chops". OTOH, I don't know jack about cameras or posting pics, so be prepared to walk me through that when the time comes.

[Ddms]

Looks great, Mark!

Trying to paint color over black is hopeless. White, silver or gold under-paint is essential to make the final coat pop. That applies to just about anything that's being painted, whether it's under the hood or not.

[cchapman195]

Okay I know this thread was started a few years ago but in case it may help somebody now I would like to throw in a way I do wires on a firewall. I take a pic of the untouched firewall. I then sand it smooth as a baby's ....., After I paint the firewall and polish or whatever I look at the photo I took and replace the wire moldings with colored thread. That way I can continue the wiring to the final destination and it looks more real that way. It also allows me to use different color thread for different wires to add color to the engine compartment. Also a lot easier then a steady hand lol. Hope this may help.

[cartpix]

What do you use to glue the thread to the firewall?

Jeff

[cchapman195]

I use white elmer's glue as it dries clear. Just a little dab in a few areas will hold it well. I have also put 3-4 pieces of string and twisted one side together then drill a small hole with a pin vice and stick the twisted end into the hole. Then glue it on the inside of the fire wall where it will not be seen. Then you can run each piece of string as a whole wire harness and separate them into there own lines.

[hooknladderno1]

Using a toothpick to apply white acrylic paint would provide a good base for your colored markers. If you mess up, simply rinse off the white paint. HTH.

David

[Monty]

I use white elmer's glue as it dries clear. Just a little dab in a few areas will hold it well. I have also put 3-4 pieces of string and twisted one side together then drill a small hole with a pin vice and stick the twisted end into the hole. Then glue it on the inside of the fire wall where it will not be seen. Then you can run each piece of string as a whole wire harness and separate them into there own lines.

Can you post some pics of this? It sounds like an interesting idea.

[cchapman195]

I will post some pics as soon as I can borrow a camera. Mine fell and won't work. Hopefully by this weekend I can post some.

[vintagestang]

Here is a tutorial from last year: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45991&hl=%2Bwiring+%2Bharness

Here's another one: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10305&hl=%2Bwiring+%2Bharness

[cchapman195]

Okay here are some pics using string. First I have marked all wires with a sharpie so you can see the pattern.

I then sand it down with 600 grit and file.

Now drill a hole where you want wires to come from. Paint, polish firewall.

Cut 4-5 black pieces of string and run through the hole you cut.

Glue the string onto the backside of firewall.

Then just cut and run string to the proper firewall electrical units. Glue each piece to firewall.

Thats about it. You can use any color thread you want. Photo's of actual car you are building can help add other wire and actual color of wires to replicate original. Not hard to do, just have fun with it. It does make you feel a little gitty about your mad skills when you are done lol.

[sjordan2]

If you're going to keep the molded-on wires, etc., I would at least score around the edges to "lift" them a bit away from the firewall before painting. And why not mask around the wires, too? Sort of like laying down BMF on thin body chrome strips, except you peel away the masking from the part to be painted.

As a matter of fact, light scoring helps wherever there are parts that need to show a little extra separation from each other - some engine parts, pleats in seats, door-mounted armrests, interior handles for windows and doors, etc.

For example, my Mercedes 300SL, which should have separate exhaust headers and heat shield with slightly different finishes, are molded in one piece. Just a little scoring appears to separate them, so the heat shield looks like it's underneath the headers.

Edited June 2, 2012 by sjordan2

[my66s55]

Chris, Thank you very much for you tutorial. It makes a lot of sense to me and is very easy to follow. As an owner of a real classic 1:1, I can see the logic of your application.

[sak]

Whatever you decide to do either the sharpie or string you can overlap it with even more detail. Google search the firewall of the car you are building. Usually theres some large wire harness taped together routed somehow around the firewall.

I cut pie pan into thin strips and glues one end to the firewall before I painted it. The harness is strands of stretched sprue that I glued twisted and glued together and brush painted with a few coats of gloss black paint .I bent it to the shape I want and looped it thru those thin pie pan stuff and bent them over the wires. The engine will hide most of that stuff so its very subtle. You can make a smaller one to replicate the thinner wire harness that goes from the fuseblock along the inner fenders and thru the rad support to the headlights. I would not try to worry bout individual wires like a temperature sender wire for instance. you will drive yourself crazy. Look at a real car and single out clusters of wires.

Edited June 5, 2012 by sak

[cchapman195]

Nice Addition to a firewall Jeff. I like the idea of stretched sprue for this. I can then just run thread from the sprue.