Stellings and Hampshire C&T F/E dragster

[Fuel Coupe]

While waiting on parts and perfecting some weathering technics I decided to try and build the C&T Automotive dragster. There will be alot of detail and scratch building in this car so it may be a bit drawn out.

I decided to scratch build a chassis for the car as the Ivo kit I based it on was too long and I didnt like the flat sided chassis. I did however use the front end mount and the drivers compartment.

The Ivo car was over 180" and the "Red Stamp" car was 130. So I pulled 50 scale inches out of the car and This what I came up with

Before

After

I also had to remove some of the tail extension as the Ivo cars tail was too long

the real car

Edited July 17, 2010 by TxRat

[Duntov]

HI:

Very nice engineering work on that tube frame.....should pay some big dividends.....I like this one a lot!!!! Thanks for sharing!!!

Regards

Bill (duntov)

[CrewDawg15]

Great looking frame. Judging by the work so far, this one is going to be a real jewel.

[my80malibu]

Very cool I like what you have so far

[Foxer]

Looks like the frame is sitting as square as can be ... looks very good!

[Peter Lombardo]

Great looking work on this one. I really love the look of those classic "diggers". The front engined rail dragsters from the mid 60's look great. Those were the days.....I remember when crossing the 200mph barrier was a big deal. I am looking forward to seeing this one done.

[Dragline]

She sher is purty Shane, I will be watching closely. I like the idea of using tube for the chassis for a better look.

Motor? The Willy Borsch would be perfect I think..... resin hat? Looks like a 392...

Looks like hardline injection too. Pressure from my Bud King build now transfered to you. LOL

Bob

Edited July 14, 2010 by Dragline

[Fuel Coupe]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the compliments.

Yes, Its a 392. I need to locate a good "stock" cast iron block to work with....

[Matt LeBlanc]

[Bernard Kron]

Nice job on the chassis. I've always thought the 130" FED's were the best proportioned and prettiest straightline racers ever created. They have an "of-a-piece" look about them that they lost when they got longer. And this one will be so tasty it will almost hurt!

[Fuel Coupe]

Heres a little update on the front suspension.

I usually build them out of brass so I thought I would post this one up with a bit of detail...

First I mark up the 1/16 brass tube in order to make the bends. I try to follow the flow of an axle I have on hand to get the bends right.

I then cut the axle loose from the rest of the tubing. I then fishmouth the ends and cut the spindle mounts generally 6mm long.

Its a good idea to get the joints tight fitted for a good bond

heres what I use to solder the joints.

the torch gives you better control on your heat. Make sure the joints are SUPER CLEAN!!!!

A little trick I use is to lay a small piece of solder in the joint and flash the torch by while holding the two pices together and let that little bit of solder flow into the joint. this keeps the heat down especially when some points are only 4mm apart. Heat control is the name of the game.

the trick is to add a little heat and move the torch away and then put your solder in the joint and when its hot enough it will flow.

heres the axle with the ends in place.

next comes the torsion mounts.I notch the axle in the desired place where the mounts and bat wings need to go. I use a cut off wheel in my dremel. I use plain old friskars orange handle scissers to cut the general shape Im after the finish them up with a sanding stick. drill what ever holes are needed and solder them in place.

Next come the bat wings. these are generally triangle shaped and go in the same way the mounts go..

friskars scissors and sanding sticks get the shape you'll want..

Drill any holes you need before mounting the wings as they'll be harder to drill once installed

Edited July 16, 2010 by TxRat

[Fuel Coupe]

and heres some pics of the finished axle. You can either polish it up and paint it or take it to a jeweler and have them nickle plate it or you can use a home plater like the one micro mark sells.

I know its probably easier to build out of plastic but wheres the fun in that

Thanks for looking guys...

Edited July 21, 2010 by TxRat

[Bernard Kron]

I wondered when this would start to be a "TxRat Build"... Well, as the expression goes: Thanx for sharing! Inspirational and instructive as always - and the effort inevitably will prove to have been worth it.

[Fuel Coupe]

Thanks Bernard,

I enjoy metal work and really enjoy building axles....

[kylexgore]

great work so far shane. keep it up.

[1320wayne]

Shane your work so far is stellar. Your metal work is both excellent and inspirational. I keep telling myself that I will one day attempt something like this on a vintage build. Can't wait to see more.

[Fuel Coupe]

Thanks Wayne, And everyone else

I have no doubt that with your skills you would be able to do this with no problem.

[Fuel Coupe]

Next update:

I decided to build a fuel pump and Frankenstein Cirillo Mag.

Heres a few pics

Heres a pic with the mag mocked up along with a scratch built manifold.

The wheel pictured is from comp resin and is a dead ringer for the wheels on the Red Stamp.

Comments of course are welcomed..

I know this aint everyones cup of tea but its a true piece of drag racing history and by far one of the prettiest cars John Shoemaker ever welded up...

Edited July 17, 2010 by TxRat

[iBorg]

Shane:

Great tutorial on the front end.

As for a stock block 392 the three "obvious" choices are the Revell Stone, Woods and Cook/Big John Willys. Other possible choices include the Wild Willy Winged T or maybe the Piranha. Either of the last two are workable but not really in the same league as the Revell Willys.

MIke

[MikeMc]

Shane...have you looked into resistance soldering irons? They make slot framework so quick...wouldbe ideal here!!

BTW ever try tix liquid flux and anti-flux?

[dwc43]

Shane:

Great tutorial on the front end.

As for a stock block 392 the three "obvious" choices are the Revell Stone, Woods and Cook/Big John Willys. Other possible choices include the Wild Willy Winged T or maybe the Piranha. Either of the last two are workable but not really in the same league as the Revell Willys.

MIke

You can get them in the Hippie Hemi and the Digger Cuda too. Ross Gibson has them too, but the two engines I have got from him are a pain to work with.

[Fuel Coupe]

Thanks Iborg and DWC, I wound up using the block from the 58 Plymouth from AMT.

Ross Gibson motors are PURE GARBAGE in my opinion...

[dwc43]

Thanks Iborg and DWC, I wound up using the block from the 58 Plymouth from AMT.

Ross Gibson motors are PURE GARBAGE in my opinion...

You are more than welcome and I totally agree with your last statement.

[Fuel Coupe]

Shane...have you looked into resistance soldering irons? They make slot framework so quick...wouldbe ideal here!!

BTW ever try tix liquid flux and anti-flux?

I would love a resistance soldering iron but I havent found one thats affordable. Never tried tix or anti flux, where can I get it and what are the benefits?

[Fuel Coupe]

Heres another small update.

Built a set of headers, I had planned to build them from aluminum but when these fabbed up so nice I just went with them

Heres the fuel tank complete with bungs for the fuel lines

Thanks to Davezinn I located a set of valve cover from the Miss Deal funny car and cast them up

Fabbed up the oil pan using the rails from the 392 pan

Heres some pics of the mocked up motor in the chassis...

As always comments are welcome...