Resin Casting ??

[dwc43]

I was thinking about trying to cast some parts and maybe one body for stuff that I use a lot of and try to save some cash that way. I found a couple kits and it just leaves me with more questions.

Hobby Lobby

Alumilite Mini Casting Kit

sku# 579714

Price: $29.99

Alumilite Super Casting Kit

sku# 580068

Price: $69.99

Can I get a descent body or small parts from one of these kits? How hard are they to use? Are they even worth messing with? Maybe other suggestions instead of these kits for a beginner in casting.

Edited August 18, 2010 by dwc43

[Abell82]

No, you could not cast a body with those kits, by themselves. The Mini kit, is just that. A Mini kit. It is approximatly half of what the other kit is. The deluxe kit only has 1 pound of rubber, you'll need between two and five pounds of rubber for a body, or so I am told.

Not to mention, that it is VERY quick setting resin, it takes some trial, and error to get good parts using this resin.

Edited August 18, 2010 by Abell82

[Eric Stone]

I tried one of the Alumilite kits and tried to copy some wheels. I don't think I ever got one perfect copy- had air bubbles in most of the parts in critical places, like the rim, lug nut detail, or center cap, so the part ended up like a short-shot styrene piece, where the farthest extremity wasn't there. You might be able to get decent results using a pressure pot, or casting parts with less intricate detail.

[dwc43]

Ok, what should I look for then if I wanted to cast some good carbs and maybe a body? Or maybe a link to something that I can read up on the subject?

[RodneyBad]

Here is what little I know.

Tap Plastics has some really good stuff for casting parts.

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=61&

This is what I have used and it works well.

Molding making stuff (9:1 ratio)($32 for the pair)

To cast the part (1:1 or 50/50 (half & half)($25.50 for the pair)

Actually a touch more part B than Part A works good.

Casting bodys? I don't know about because it would take a lot of the RTV Silicone RTV

to do it and ya really gotta be good at it.

Edited August 18, 2010 by Zukiholic

[Len Geisler]

Well, you know what they say about opinions right...LOL...

Well here is mine, I have used both the Alumalite and Smooth On products, and hands down on the resin end of things, I like the Smooth On (used Smooth Cast 300, cures a bit on the wuick side, but I like that as I can get a lot done in a little time) the best, I have cast carbs, blowers, intakes, and some other small items with no issues, and a very good rate of usable parts. As for the Alumalite, not so much, at first I had some issues with bubbles, and kinda worked that out but then, the stuff would cure with "zebra stripes" and I didnt like that, hard, but strange colors. As for rubber, I have used both and depending on the job both are fine. I will say that the OOMOO Rubber from Smooth On is more flexible than what I used from Alumalite.

Also, I can get the Smooth On at my local Pearl and the Alumalite, not so easy to get....

If you have more specific questions please ask, and I will answer as best I can.

[shucky]

Only reason I would not buy the super casting kit from Alumilite is because of the "quick set" RTV. If you want to cast highly detailed parts with ease buy the Dow Corning HS2 from Alumilite. It is the "Cadillac" of RTV's IMO. Then you'll need some Alumilite "regular" or Alumilite "white" casting resin. The "white" is thinner and pics up the most intricate of details. If you want to cast a body, you will definitely need a few lbs. of rubber. I'd suggest going with the 10lb bucket of HS2. While resin casting is very interesting and rewarding, the cost can be quite substantial when you start adding up all the little things that you need. Here's a breakdown off the top of my head - HS2 RTV, 28 oz Alumilite casting resin, blue clay from Alumilite, extra measuring cups (Alumilite), tools for working with clay, materials for making mold boxes, flat safety cut glass for your work surface and extra pieces for placing on top of your 1 piece molds for casting flat backed items, UMR mold release (Alumilite), 8 oz paper cups for mixing rubber/resin, 2-3 oz paper cups for pouring smaller resin items, mixing sticks (Hobby Lobby), a method of pre heating your molds prior to pouring resin, baby powder for dusting your molds prior to pouring resin ...etc

If you start making the investment in the RTV and resin the cost of all of your other supplies start to increase quite a bit. It just depends on what you want to cast and how much of it you want to make. IM me if you need more details.

[mr moto]

As several others have said, Alumilite is just too fast. There is not enough working time for careful work - strictly blow and go! There's no time to work out any bubbles or to pour slowly enough to avoid bubbles.

I've done a lot better with the resin and silicone from Micro Mark and I recommend it. Never tried the TAP brand that was mentioned by another poster but his results looks real good so I'd be inclined to listen to his advice!

[shucky]

Len, I may have to give the oomoo a try. Since its 1:1 mix ratio you actually get double the material than buying HS2. As in, their 1 gallon kit weighs 20 lbs (10 lbs each bucket) = 20lbs of rubber for $145.00. Thats twice as much material for less $$ than 10 lbs of HS2 from Alumilite. Hmmm ... I may have to order a sample of the oomoo and give it a whirl.

[shucky]

As several others have said, Alumilite is just too fast. There is not enough working time for careful work - strictly blow and go! There's no time to work out any bubbles or to pour slowly enough to avoid bubbles.

I've done a lot better with the resin and silicone from Micro Mark and I recommend it. Never tried the TAP brand that was mentioned by another poster but his results looks real good so I'd be inclined to listen to his advice!

Manuel, I use the Alumilite "white" which has 2.5 mins of open time. Alumilite "regular" only has 90 seconds, which in my opinion is way too quick. The "white" works perfectly and allows plenty of time for mixing, pouring, and working out any bubbles (if any). Its water thin as well which allows it to pick up the most intricate of detail. All of this stuff has some learning curve so use whatever works best for your application. Good luck fella's.

[Eshaver]

I have used Aluminite on now several occasions . To be quite honest , I can't recomend them . Their rubber is to soft and a few posters above stole the show as in their assertion on the too quick to kick resin ! Im serious , you may have a MINUTE to dump resin in a mold as their two part resin will actually cure in a cup that fast ! Their rubber is fine for a simple one piece mold . It won't do a job of some hubcaps . I too found too many pinholes and the fact that on two piece molds , I barely got two gasoline pumps out when the mold was junk. I'll be gooing back to Synair products . Ed Shaver

[shucky]

Eshaver, what RTV were you using that turned to junk after 2 pours? I've gotten as much as 80 pulls from various molds so far (1 and 2 piece).

[dwc43]

Thanks for the reply's. I get the feeling I am about to get in over my head. lol. Keep it coming, tell me ever thing you think I might need to know. If anyone has a link for a beginners book or dvd so I can study up on this some more that would help too.

[jeffs396]

I'd like to start doing some casting myself...

If we could just get our own Art Anderson to write a book

[Len Geisler]

Len, I may have to give the oomoo a try. Since its 1:1 mix ratio you actually get double the material than buying HS2. As in, their 1 gallon kit weighs 20 lbs (10 lbs each bucket) = 20lbs of rubber for $145.00. Thats twice as much material for less $$ than 10 lbs of HS2 from Alumilite. Hmmm ... I may have to order a sample of the oomoo and give it a whirl.

Mike, I have only made parts for my own use and some for friends or modelers in need.....As for the OOMOO, it makes a very nice, soft, flexible easy to use mold, like I said for an amateur who makes some stuff for himself, it was a great expirence.

Not too mention the guys over there are great to deal with, when a technical question comes into play..

[Guest old man]

i use the alumilite all the time i have never had any issue's with it yes it set's fast but just back off of part b & it will set slow as far as stripes in it it is because he did not mix it well. i just cast 14 fuel fitting's with exc result's you have to follow the instruction's & it work's just fine

[impcon]

Interesting thread! I have asked a couple of questions on this subject myself and this thread adds to that knowledge BIG TIME! Now if only there was some place local to buy this stuff.... *sighs* But there isn't so I read these threads on making your own parts with great interest because when I do getthe materials, it will be on line. I recently tried using fibreglass resin for small castings. The came out soft and hard to work with but I am going to try again. I am tring to take castings of body side moldings and they are pretty flimsy and fragile - making them hard to work with. So keep thos suggestions coming.. a lot of us are watching, reading and learning... maybe some one needs to do a proper tutorial on this subject...*hint, hint, nudge, nudge* Now maybe if us guys who are interested would ask nicely????

[GMP440]

I have casted parts and bodies. For resin I used Vagabonds 2 part resin.

For the rubber I used the silicone rubber from GI Silicones.

The $30 and $40 kits don't give enough to do bodies unless it's a Matchbox car size.

To do a 1/25 scale body you need at least 32 ounces of rubber.

As suggested by another poster about getting the large quantities; 10lb, 20lb, etc of rubber. He is right on.

with practice you can cast anything. But you'll be spending money to do it.

I have casted parts and bodies. For resin I used Vagabonds 2 part resin.

For the rubber I used the silicone rubber from GI Silicones.

The $30 and $40 kits don't give enough to do bodies unless it's a Matchbox car size.

To do a 1/25 scale body you need at least 32 ounces of rubber.

As suggested by another poster about getting the large quantities; 10lb, 20lb, etc of rubber. He is right on.

with practice you can cast anything. But you'll be spending money to do it.

[old-hermit]

Heres a good place to start ... I've had good luck with these products and company.

http://www.micromark.com/COMPLETE-RESIN-CASTING-STARTER-SET,8174.html

http://www.micromark.com/EASY-CASTING-TECHNIQUES-DVD,9265.html

http://cast-a-walker.blogspot.com/

If you don't want to read ...

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Resin+Casting&aq=f

[shucky]

Alumilite has an excellent DVD also. Kinda like "old man" said ... it may not exactly be the products fault that your results aren't what you expected. There is a learning curve with all these products to achieve the best possible results. Reading the directions carefully would help also, thats no joke by the way.

Impcon, is your side molding on a flat section of the body?

[dwc43]

i use the alumilite all the time i have never had any issue's with it yes it set's fast but just back off of part b & it will set slow as far as stripes in it it is because he did not mix it well. i just cast 14 fuel fitting's with exc result's you have to follow the instruction's & it work's just fine

I meant to ask about the stripes. That's what I figured too. Not mixed up well enough. Probably makes it weak too if it is a big piece.

[dwc43]

Heres a good place to start ... I've had good luck with these products and company.

http://www.micromark.com/COMPLETE-RESIN-CASTING-STARTER-SET,8174.html

http://www.micromark.com/EASY-CASTING-TECHNIQUES-DVD,9265.html

http://cast-a-walker.blogspot.com/

If you don't want to read ...

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Resin+Casting&aq=f

Thanks. Those first two links wont work, but the last one and the you tube links are fine. I'll check those out.

[crazyjim]

I'm either confused or dumb - maybe both. Before you can mix any chemicals, you need to make a mold. Sure would be nice to see a detailed tutorial that would include the whole deal including a material list. I'd love to try and make some wheels. Tires too - but the ones Ma's Resin has are too nice and look complicated to make - at least for me.

[dwc43]

I have another question. After you make a mold, how many bodies or parts can you get from it before it's junk and time for a new one.

[impcon]

Alumilite has an excellent DVD also. Kinda like "old man" said ... it may not exactly be the products fault that your results aren't what you expected. There is a learning curve with all these products to achieve the best possible results. Reading the directions carefully would help also, thats no joke by the way.

Impcon, is your side molding on a flat section of the body?

Hey Shucky! The side moldings are from a '59 El Camino and yes, they run along the side of the car from front to back. They are reasonably flat, yes.. but delicate becayse they are very shallow and actually, to be done properly, they aill actually be two very slim seperate pieces of trim that join each other at front and back of the car. If they are cast too thick, they will protrude from the side of the car and look ridiculous... I have considered making the piece of trim from two seperate strips of styrene but getting the stuff formed right is a bit beyong my current capabilities. I'm going to add some side moldings to another project using strip styrene but the El Camino moldings are too complicated - I think. My life is pretty complicated and full these days so I can go for a few days at a time and not touch any of my projects. I am still working on my '63 Mercury Meteor and '61 Chevy pickup annual and what I am doing is trying to get a bit of a jump start on these other upcoming projects by trying to figure out and learn how to do what I really want to do.