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bad weather and painting


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There are several trains of thought on this.

1- ( a little late now) is to pre-paint all your winter projects during the summer months and then build them in the winter months.

A valid idea though it would take real good planning.

2- Purchase a small paint Booth and exhaust it out a window.

I purchased a small Paint Booth from Passche, then took a board 5/8 thick by 12 inches high and cut it to fit the window. Then I purchased the flapper type, ( used for dryers) and fastend it to the board. Hook up the hose to sprayer, place board in window, close window on board, hook other end of hose to vent tube on board, turn on Paint Booth and paint away.

Total cost 200.00

PaaschePaintBooth001.jpg

Hope this helps. You can get this Paint Booth from TCP Global

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There are some options that you might consider. One is to contact the auto shop at the high school, also the college if they have one. I've done that before, but it usually ends with me doing some volunteer work for them. One year I was asked to help the first year students with their models; something that I really enjoyed. Another suggestion is to contact an auto repair shop. We know what the answer will probably be, but I have known some who were modelers themselves, so it's worth a try. Ask around at the local hobby shops. Often they will know somebody that would let you use their paintbooth. The next thing that I would suggest is to go with a water based paint. Those that I know of have to be airbrushed, but there might be some that I'm not familiar with. Many of these have no, or very minimal fumes, and can simply be sprayed into a cardboard box.

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I have the same problem, and have ever since I first started building nearly 25 years ago. I just do like Don suggested in one of his ideas, I try to pre plan builds over the winter months and get the spray painting done before the snow flies.

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Actually I an wondering about this too. But I cannot buy a paint both like I want too, also the home is now winterized, the windows are covered in plastic. the porch I have is enclosed but not heated, Also I can only afford to buy kits one at a time as there is little room to store them.

It was warm enough out side today but it was windy so I sprayed in the Porch. No matter what it looks like I will be spraying in the cold, so if there are suggested methods for spraying in cold temperatures I too would like to know. Thanks.

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if your bathroom has a vent in it,you could always go spray your model real quick,then run it into the bathroom and turn on the vent. agter a few minutes itll be dry enough to harden the paint with a hair dryer(think homemade dehydrator) on low.

then just take it to the man cave.

if shes sensitive to paints(my dad is) just remember to spray some air freshener throughout the house.

at least thats what i do,but i dont have to deal with snow like the rest of you guys.

Jeff

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Actually I an wondering about this too. But I cannot buy a paint both like I want too, also the home is now winterized, the windows are covered in plastic. the porch I have is enclosed but not heated, Also I can only afford to buy kits one at a time as there is little room to store them.

It was warm enough out side today but it was windy so I sprayed in the Porch. No matter what it looks like I will be spraying in the cold, so if there are suggested methods for spraying in cold temperatures I too would like to know. Thanks.

With an enclosed porch, you could run a small electric heater out to it and pre-heat the porch prior to painting, that'll fix the cold problem.

To vent it, if your porch has opening windows, crack one open an inch or two just before you start painting, and run a table-top fan as an exhaust fan.

Paint in a cardboard box to stop overspray from going all over the place and close the door prior to painting to keep the fumes to a miniumum. After you've finished painting, leave the heater on to keep the area warm and continue to run the fan for a few minutes to help vent the fumes. The heater part is especially important if you use enamels. Lacquers will dry very happily in cool/cold, but if it's below about 30 degrees, I'd use the heater anyway, if for no other reason, some comfort for you.

The paint scent will dissipate after about half an hour and you can bring the parts in and shut everything down. Enamels will continue to dry. Lacquers dry in about 30 minutes.

Charlie Larkin

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As long as it isn't raining or snowing, I've painted outside in below freezing temperatures. Usually I use spray cans, so I warm the can under the tap, go out, spray, come in, and either put the model in the basement to dry in my work area, or leave it in the cold garage.

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Or you can just move to Arizona and paint year round.......... :lol::D

Same same for southern Nevada!

I actually have the reverse problem, high heat, and no humidity make for problematic painting sessions. I live for this time of year when I can spray outside.

G

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if your bathroom has a vent in it,you could always go spray your model real quick,then run it into the bathroom and turn on the vent. agter a few minutes itll be dry enough to harden the paint with a hair dryer(think homemade dehydrator) on low.

then just take it to the man cave.

if shes sensitive to paints(my dad is) just remember to spray some air freshener throughout the house.

at least thats what i do,but i dont have to deal with snow like the rest of you guys.

Jeff

The president from the Crawler Club I'm a member of tried that a couple winters back with Pactra Metallic Red.......didn't work so good for him, and I don't think his wife was overly thrilled with him either :lol:

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pactra paints are my fav. i usually only spray the laquers during the summer months,and keep to enamles in the winter.

plus i live in Texas,so that may be part of it,lol

Yea, location can make a big difference when it comes to painting during the winter! What primer do you use for the Pactra paints on styrene just out of curiosity?

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With an enclosed porch, you could run a small electric heater out to it and pre-heat the porch prior to painting, that'll fix the cold problem.

To vent it, if your porch has opening windows, crack one open an inch or two just before you start painting, and run a table-top fan as an exhaust fan.

Paint in a cardboard box to stop overspray from going all over the place and close the door prior to painting to keep the fumes to a miniumum. After you've finished painting, leave the heater on to keep the area warm and continue to run the fan for a few minutes to help vent the fumes. The heater part is especially important if you use enamels. Lacquers will dry very happily in cool/cold, but if it's below about 30 degrees, I'd use the heater anyway, if for no other reason, some comfort for you.

The paint scent will dissipate after about half an hour and you can bring the parts in and shut everything down. Enamels will continue to dry. Lacquers dry in about 30 minutes.

Charlie Larkin

Hi, Thanks for the great Idea, I do have one of these small garage heaters that I can use, Since I have now just been employed to Wendy's as their Maintenance Person I have access to as many big boxes that I need and I was planning on taking one when it appears. and extending some newspaper out to help catch the overspray too. I also liked the idea of spraying outside when it is not snowing and it is not below thirty degrees, and there are plenty of those days over the winter time, so I will try that too. Thanks for your help guys :) .

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I have never had a problem painting outside in the cold. Figure the model and paint are kept inside, therefore, they are at room temperature. I submerge the rattle cans in warm water before painting year round. The amount of time it takes to spray it won't change the temperature of the plastic or paint. The only difference is the air. You may have to adjust the distance between the nozzle and subject.

Tim Ahlborn paints during the (northern Michigan)winter in his garage which is unheated and seems to never have a problem.

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I submerge the rattle cans in warm water before painting year round.

That's a good idea, too, and one I forgot. I always warm the cans, no matter the temperature, before painting. It really does help any paint, lacquer or enamel spray and flow out better and mix more thoroughly. You also get more paint out of the can because the higher pressure in the can forces the paint to mix more thoroughly when you shake it.

To do this: take a small saucepan, say a 2-quart and put about two cups of water in it. Put the can in and turn the heat on to medium. Let the can sit in the water for about five-ten minutes, or more, until the can is warm to the touch. Once warm, start shaking it immediately, if it's a little hot, use a couple of paper towels to act as hot-mitts of sorts, just be careful to keep the paper out of the way of the spray.

Spray as usual. If cold, and especially if spraying enamel, you may need to move in a little closer than normal for the paint to work properly. Be forewarned though, that you might need to adjust the thickness of each coat of paint to avoid having too much paint go on at one time. Experiment with some scrap plastic or cardboard to get a feel for what will work for you.

Charlie Larkin

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Charlie's got a good idea here, but follow what he says closely, I seem to remember somebody writing into another model mag over a decade ago saying that they put cans of primer and Italian Red Lacquer on the stove in boiling water :lol: .....with explosive results that damaged the ceiling, stove, and very quickly painted the entire kitchen red with no effort what so ever:o :lol:

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I live in an apartment too. All I have is a balcony and up here in Toronto it's no doubt we get the winter weather too. I've successfully painted using rattle cans in the winter. You just got to be quick.

Keep the cans and the parts to be painted inside until your ready. Jump out, spray your first coat and jump back inside and stick it in a waiting closet and close the door until the paint flashes over and everything come back up to room temperature. Then repeat if necessary. Always works for me. Keeping the painted parts in the closet not only keeps in in room temperature, but keeps the smell from wafting too much into the apartment, though some of it still will.

It's when you wait too long outside and the parts and paint get cold is when you run into trouble.

Edited by beefheart22
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I've found that if I just turn on my tap all the way on hot till is starts steaming, it gets plenty warm to do the job. As someone who once boiled the water out of a pot I was going to make Mac N Cheese with I hesitate recommending actually leaving something on a stove.

I have a little tupper-ware wanna-be container that's about as deep as a standard Testors can, and about twice as round. Put the can in the hot water and let it sit for about 2-3 minutes (or until the can is warm), then shake it up and head outside. The one thing I hate dealing with is the smell of Testors enamel primer...that stuff stinks for a week (or until you paint over it).

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Charlie's got a good idea here, but follow what he says closely, I seem to remember somebody writing into another model mag over a decade ago saying that they put cans of primer and Italian Red Lacquer on the stove in boiling water :lol: .....with explosive results that damaged the ceiling, stove, and very quickly painted the entire kitchen red with no effort what so ever:o :lol:

I don't use the stove. Just fill the sink with hot water and submerge. You may need a weight on top of the can to hold it down since it is buoyant. My bathroom sink has the perfect amount of space for one of the large cans to lock under the faucet to hold it in place. 10 minutes later, you are ready to go. Using a stove, you're just asking for trouble. If you forget about it being in the sink, no problem as the water will obviously cool down and the cans don't drown either.

Edited by mountaindewd
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Charlie's got a good idea here, but follow what he says closely, I seem to remember somebody writing into another model mag over a decade ago saying that they put cans of primer and Italian Red Lacquer on the stove in boiling water :blink: .....with explosive results that damaged the ceiling, stove, and very quickly painted the entire kitchen red with no effort what so ever:o B)

Okay I won't put the can in boiling water, but still this is some seriously funny stuff! I have exploded one can of white primer before, now It didn't explode everywhere thankfully, I had the top on, and I put the can in hot water one day and left it sitting for about a good ten mintues, then I picked up the can, dried it off, then went to shaking the hell out of it, then I hear Pooof! Yep that can exploded, and the bottom of it bulged out like a dome :lol: , and the spray head came off, it's a good thing I have worked in a company who make their own spray cans other wise I would not have known how to put the Head back on :lol: . Seriously though it was still usable ;) , I had to shake it allot though :lol: .

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