Sergey Posted March 17, 2011 Author Posted March 17, 2011 (edited) Hello, friends. I started with the engine. It should look like this: Laying out fuel lines fron injector to cylinders. I decided to improve pulleys. Cut off the belts. Alternator pulley was turn using power drill and device on photo. The rest of the pulleys were partly punched from styrene. The result. Alternator seemed too simple. So it was altered with one more lug (marked with arrow, flywheel (on the left) and bracket(on the right). Edited October 29, 2014 by Sergey
Sergey Posted March 17, 2011 Author Posted March 17, 2011 (edited) Kit starter: It's location on the block: I cut off the part, which will be painted with the engine ...and added some detailes to unit: The engine (not finished jet): Some parts are not glued because they will be painted seperattely in a different color. Filters were cut of brackets by the same reason. Up on the right is the tube locating above the valve cover. Up on the left is reinforced tube surraunding air filter hose: Kit radiator suffered form lack of rim on the back side. I used 25mm plastic tube to cut a short piece for radiator. By the way, this tube will be used to make fuel tanks. The hose between air cleaner and intercooler proved to be too short. I plan to cut it and insert pieces of aluminum tube 6mm: First cross member will be replaced by brass tube (on the left) because it will hold bull bar hinges. Feel free to ask questiones. Edited October 29, 2014 by Sergey
truckin24 Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 Holy heaven ! Great ! Model building only the finest ! Klaus
Ben Posted March 18, 2011 Posted March 18, 2011 Excellent work Sergey!!! A model so detailed would really benefit from a set of the real aluminum split rim ten hole wheels I'm having made!!!! Not only are they real machined aluminum, but they are also correct in shape. The AMT wheels have incorrect contours. These wheels are designed to be direct replacements for the kit wheels and still use the kit's plastic lock rings. (The lock rings are steel and would be painted on real wheels). I have also had real machined aluminum lug nuts made to go with these wheels. If you think you might be interested in some, let me know.
Sergey Posted March 18, 2011 Author Posted March 18, 2011 (edited) Excellent work Sergey!!! A model so detailed would really benefit from a set of the real aluminum split rim ten hole wheels I'm having made!!!! Thank you Ben. I will think it over. One more thing: I plan to paint the engine in gold, like on top photo. I saw they also were light blue and red. Am I right about my decision? Edited March 18, 2011 by Sergey
Ben Posted March 18, 2011 Posted March 18, 2011 Hello Sergey! I am not a Mack expert but I do know they paint their engines gold or grey. I'm not sure on light blue or red though?
Jim B Posted March 18, 2011 Posted March 18, 2011 Depending on the year, in this case the late 1970s, gold would be an appropriate choice. I've found that Tamiya Gold Leaf X-12 is pretty close. The 300-Plus ETAZ-673A was copper colored.
Sergey Posted March 19, 2011 Author Posted March 19, 2011 (edited) Hello Sergey! I am not a Mack expert but I do know they paint their engines gold or grey. I'm not sure on light blue or red though?Hello Ben! Here are the examples: As I mention before the tanks will be replaced. Tank brackets too. Here are the tool and materials for that: Here are the tank side pieces: I used the rest of the material for tank brackets: Fuel tank: Fuel tank brackets: On the frame: A photo of the real frame to compare: Edited October 29, 2014 by Sergey
Tony Bryan Posted March 19, 2011 Posted March 19, 2011 Sergey Nice detail happening here, with some nice attention to detail One thing most people leave off when detailing a engine is the clutch assembly on the gear box and when you do the tank straps for the tanks, they also have a rubber moulding under the strap in most cases, some custom trucks don't have these I attached a pic of the KW version of these straps, and a pic of the 1/16th version that I cast in rubber so you could see the result I really like the pulley detail, they really come up great, will have to use that idea myself Look forward to another update
freightshaker Posted March 20, 2011 Posted March 20, 2011 Alot of attention to detail I really like it. With all the time and attention you're putting I cant wait to the see finished build.
Ben Posted March 20, 2011 Posted March 20, 2011 Hey Sergey, seeing that red engine, I'm reminded of seeing them before but I've never seen a light blue one! I like how it looks! You do know there's lots of places you can get real aluminum fuel tanks to put on your truck, right? Nothing looks more like an aluminum fuel tank...than an aluminum fuel tank!!!! LOL They're cheap too!
David G. Posted March 20, 2011 Posted March 20, 2011 Man, that is a LOT of work! Your detail is awesome! David G.
Sergey Posted March 21, 2011 Author Posted March 21, 2011 (edited) Sergey Nice detail happening here, with some nice attention to detail One thing most people leave off when detailing a engine is the clutch assembly on the gear box Thank you Tony. Do you mean a rim around engine/gear box joining? Thank you again. I was not sure about it. I guess I should file the rim off? As for the straps - they will be made using black and chrome vinyl tape. Hey Sergey, seeing that red engine, I'm reminded of seeing them before but I've never seen a light blue one! I like how it looks! This picture was kindly granted by Don Schumaker, Mack Museum Curator Thanks to every one. Edited March 21, 2011 by Sergey
stewart Posted March 22, 2011 Posted March 22, 2011 Wow what a build. Very nice detail and scratchbuilding. STewart
Tony Bryan Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 Thank you Tony. Do you mean a rim around engine/gear box joining? Thank you again. I was not sure about it. I guess I should file the rim off? As for the straps - they will be made using black and chrome vinyl tape. This picture was kindly granted by Don Schumaker, Mack Museum Curator Thanks to every one. Sergy The rim around the gearbox is fine, as it has some of the bolt detail, I would whoever fill the gap between the box and the engine to smooth it off, as between both is a flat area, if you can understand that, will see if I can find a picture, as for the gear box clutch assembly, that is the fork that operates the clutch, it has a hydraulic line that runs to it, and a slave cylinder that operates a fork arrangement will find that pic to Build is looking great, and the detail is very well done, I am looking forward to an update
Sergey Posted April 1, 2011 Author Posted April 1, 2011 (edited) Sergy The rim around the gearbox is fine, as it has some of the bolt detail, I would whoever fill the gap between the box and the engine to smooth it off, as between both is a flat area, if you can understand that, will see if I can find a picture, as for the gear box clutch assembly, that is the fork that operates the clutch, it has a hydraulic line that runs to it, and a slave cylinder that operates a fork arrangement will find that pic to Build is looking great, and the detail is very well done, I am looking forward to an update Thank you Tony! Looking forward for the pictures.Meanwhile small update: As acumulator box consists of two halves I decided to detail it a little. Sprite can tin and cooper wire were used. Also drill bit and model saw: To start I made sawcut in the bottom half (marked with red circles). Hinges are made of tin. Lockers are soldered wire. Here how it will open: ... and close. Altered first cross member. Besides I've got etched hinges for bull bar and cab tilt: The first one (marked with red circle) are on it's place. By the way, can anyone show me how does real truck accumulator look like? I would like to detail it up too. Edited October 29, 2014 by Sergey
highway Posted April 2, 2011 Posted April 2, 2011 Sergey, your attention to detail is amazing! The battery box looks like it's ready to go on a real Mack, but there is one suggestion I have for you on it. You might want to research the way that box opens, because at least on later model Macks that I have driven, the battery box is not hinged, the top just lifts off from the base. There are two "L" shaped brackets on the rear sides of the bottom half that catch brackets on the top half. I'm not sure if in the old days it was different and hinged, but the newer ones don't have a hinge.
Janne Herajärvi Posted April 3, 2011 Posted April 3, 2011 Everything looks great so far! Keep up good work
Sergey Posted April 28, 2011 Author Posted April 28, 2011 (edited) Let's continue: Some work with bumper... Upper brass parts are cab hinges I mentioned before. The bumper will tilt (with bull bar) like this. Bumper hinge is marked with red. The pieces of styrene, which hold the bumper in ride position are marked here with red. On the bumper reverse side I made paces for hinge. The cab was treated the same way. Here are cab tilting rams (below) and radiator straps (above). Some photos with the cab. Some parts are not glued, so they connected not firmly. Edited October 29, 2014 by Sergey
Sergey Posted April 28, 2011 Author Posted April 28, 2011 (edited) How do you think - is the cab sits truth and level? Fuel tanks are ready for paint. So exhaust staks (and chassis). Edited October 29, 2014 by Sergey
Foxer Posted April 28, 2011 Posted April 28, 2011 Fascinating work and great documentation of the build. It's been great fun following along ..
Old Albion Posted April 28, 2011 Posted April 28, 2011 Sergey, This is an extraordinary level of Model Engineering. Fantastic attention to detail. Thanks for sharing. Dave
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