Paint ?

[rickd13]

I have a few questions about Model Master (lacquer) spray can paint if anyone can help. My first question is, on the can it says that it is a two part system to be used with Model Master lacquer clear coat. Is it necessary to use the clear coat or could I just polish the base color (white) to the desired finish? My second question is, I have been having problems with the paint "nicking" when I have tried to scrape away excess foil with a tooth pick, after I cut around small details on the body (fender vents on '71 'Cuda). Is that because I am not using a clear coat over the base color paint to protect it? Could it be because the paint isn't completely cured? I waited 24 hours before I tried foiling. Should I wait longer? I have read on here that you do not need to clear coat solid, non-metallic colors. Is that the case with the Model Master lacquer paint I'm using also? My last question is, is there any way to touch up a nick in the paint without having to repaint the whole car? I already stripped the the body of the car twice and started over because of this. If it happens again, I would like to know if there is a technique I could use to fix the small problem instead of starting all over again. Thanks for any advice you guys can give me.

Edited April 3, 2011 by rickd13

[Steven Zimmerman]

If it is a solid color (no pearls,metalflake,candy,etc.) you should be able to touch it up with a paintbrush or airbrush,especially if it is from the same can. Then polish to 'blend it in.......'Z'

[whale392]

These lacquers are very thin, and I have found that they do not adhere well to even Dupli-color primer. I have had to re-shoot my Impala twice for the very same reason you did, only mine was the tape I was using to mask off the trim. I ended up having to hand-paint the trim. I would assume a good automotive clear might help seal them down and keep this lift from happening.

[curt raitz]

The base coat for these paints are very fragile

I usually spray a couple light coats of ModelMaster UltraGloss Clearcoat on the model just after spraying the basecoat

If doing multiple coats and foiling...let it cure for a few days before playing with it, haven't had issues with the paint lifting as of yet...

follow up final color painting with light sanding (2400 grit) and shoot clear coat...can't go wrong with MM's UltraGloss Clearcoat or Tamiya's TS-13 Clear

note: Duplicolor's new gloss clearcoat (medium sized can) seems to work as well...but ya better test it on a plastic spoon with your paint combination before painting the model...could get yucky!

Good Luck and happy spraying...

2nd note...I do not clear coat over bare-metal foil, usually the last thing I do before final assembly

Edited April 3, 2011 by curt raitz

[spad007]

Tooth: are you getting enough tooth on the parts your painting?

it might help to wet sand parts before you prime .

some soapy water and wet sanding paper right at first might help.

the primer adherer to your model.

then sanding each coat after to provide the paint grip on the model

some "scuff and shoot". Like an, Earl Scheib "I will paint your car for 39.95 and no Extras"; Paint job.

... And he meant it too, no extras like masking or sanding or giving back your wipers.

(they were on your car when you left.) "We are not responsible for damage or loss of items left in you car"

[rickd13]

I'm using Dupli-Color primer. I do wash the body of the car with soapy water, and I do lightly wet sand and rinse off in-between coats of primer and paint, so I do not believe that is the problem. I would rather not use a clear coat because I am using white as the base color and I read that clear coat tends to yellow over time. Thank you for the tips guys. Keep them coming.

[vaughn]

I'm using Dupli-Color primer. I do wash the body of the car with soapy water, and I do lightly wet sand and rinse off in-between coats of primer and paint, so I do not believe that is the problem. I would rather not use a clear coat because I am using white as the base color and I read that clear coat tends to yellow over time. Thank you for the tips guys. Keep them coming.

Rick..I have used the two coat Model Master Laquers and have had no problems with the clear they suggest using. You can polish after the clear has cured. I think you will be ok with it.

[crazyjim]

I used to use Tamiya TS13 or TS65 clear coats over the Testor's paint. Never had a problem.

[rickd13]

Is it the consensus that clear coat is necessary? I guess what I want to hear from somebody is, "Sure. You should be fine without the clear coat." The problem I have is I already completed the hood, grill and back bumper without clear coat on them. They are already detailed (emblems, hood pins, hood vents, grill, and the trim around the grill) and I'm really happy with the way they came out. If I clear coat the body of the car now, won't it look different than the other parts that I didn't clear coat? Plus, I really do not want the car to be too shiny. I do not want it to look like the custom cars that I see on here. I want it to look the way the muscle cars of the late '60's and early '70's looked.

Edited April 3, 2011 by rickd13

[spad007]

Is it the consensus that clear coat is necessary? I guess what I want to hear from somebody is, "Sure. You should be fine without the clear coat." The problem I have is I already completed the hood, grill and back bumper without clear coat on them. They are already detailed (emblems, hood pins, hood vents, grill, and the trim around the grill) and I'm really happy with the way they came out. If I clear coat the body of the car now, won't it look different than the other parts that I didn't clear coat? Plus, I really do not want the car to be too shiny. I do not want it to look like the custom cars that I see on here. I want it to look the way the muscle cars of the late '60's and early '70's looked.

wait 30 days and wax the car just like the one to one cars.

[rickd13]

wait 30 days and wax the car just like the one to one cars.

What does one to one mean? I see that on here a lot. Do you mean a real, full size car when you guys say 1:1?

[rickd13]

Rick,you don't have to use a clear coat over white. While I haven't used the Model Masters,I have used Tamiya Pure White and like you,I didn't want a real glossy paint job,so I didn't spray a clear coat over it. I have photos of the build if you want to see it for yourself. You will be fine with out a clear coat.

I would like to see the pictures if you have them. Thank you.

[Zoom Zoom]

Since nobody has really answered your question...

Yes, you need to clearcoat the paint. The Testors lacquers are designed to be a 2 stage base/clear system. The base coats are not very glossy and will not polish up to a gloss anything like, say, Tamiya spray pure white. The Testors paint doesn't have the clear carrier in the base coat. So yes...clearcoat it. Here's where it gets tricky; Testors clearcoat dries quickly and glossy, but many people report that you cannot wrap the car, even after it has cured for months, with anything, or you will damage the clearcoat. You can use Tamiya TS13 clear instead and that paint doesn't have the same issues w/wrapping.

I recently painted a model w/Testors Honduras Maroon overcoated w/Tamiya clear red and then clear. It came out gorgeous; zero problems w/compatibility.

I tested some of the Testors lacquer solid colors myself, to see if they could be buffed out w/o clear...they didn't buff out to an acceptable gloss (to me). Many others are satisfied with it. I'm not. Maybe for replicating a model of a car with aged paint...

Your paint likely wasn't cured enough before you did the foiling. I use a dehydrator, I don't have paint cure problems...after overnight in the dehydrator, anything I've sprayed is ready for sanding, buffing, whatever.

[rickd13]

Since nobody has really answered your question...

Yes, you need to clearcoat the paint. The Testors lacquers are designed to be a 2 stage base/clear system. The base coats are not very glossy and will not polish up to a gloss anything like, say, Tamiya spray pure white. The Testors paint doesn't have the clear carrier in the base coat. So yes...clearcoat it. Here's where it gets tricky; Testors clearcoat dries quickly and glossy, but many people report that you cannot wrap the car, even after it has cured for months, with anything, or you will damage the clearcoat. You can use Tamiya TS13 clear instead and that paint doesn't have the same issues w/wrapping.

I recently painted a model w/Testors Honduras Maroon overcoated w/Tamiya clear red and then clear. It came out gorgeous; zero problems w/compatibility.

I tested some of the Testors lacquer solid colors myself, to see if they could be buffed out w/o clear...they didn't buff out to an acceptable gloss (to me). Many others are satisfied with it. I'm not. Maybe for replicating a model of a car with aged paint...

Your paint likely wasn't cured enough before you did the foiling. I use a dehydrator, I don't have paint cure problems...after overnight in the dehydrator, anything I've sprayed is ready for sanding, buffing, whatever.

Thanks for your reply. Actually the classic white Model Master lacquer I used looks glossy enough to me without doing a thing to it. Do you think if I polish it a little and then wax it that it will be okay or should I just wax it without polishing? If I do wax, what would you recommend? Can I wax after I apply the decals? From now on, if I want to paint without using a clear, that the Tamiya paint is the way to go? As you can tell I'm really new to this and I'm learning expensive lessons as I go along. Thanks again for answering all of my stupid questions.

Edited April 5, 2011 by rickd13

[Evil Appetite]

Thanks again for answering all of my stupid questions.

Hey, I ask at least 1 stupid question per day, it's all part of the learning process, and as you might have figured out by now, these are the guys you can learn from, ask 'stupid' questions and not feel like they're looking down on ya.