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68 Shelby GT500


Iron Fist

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Bought the Round2 68 GT500 kit, its a dog of a kit. First Round2 kit and probably last, but I'm having fun with it.

Molded in lime gold, who molds a kit in color. I bought the original AMT kit in 2005, it was molded in grey and I remember the engine and interior detail being poor (like the Round2 kit)but at least there weren't all the flash issues. Well on with the build.

Added a stainless steel mesh grill and painted it with decanted Krylon semi gloss black through my AB, I think the mesh scale looks pretty good.

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Loosely placed in.

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Detail Engine, added fan from 68 Hemi

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Now my problem. Testors lacquer clear coat reacted with the Testors black enamel. I did 3 mist coats (waited between each coat and then a wet coat. The finish was like glass then I checked back on it 20 minutes later and this is what I looked like.

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I'm not too concerned, as I can strip it and repaint but the question is with what? appreciate some input, thanks.

Here's the body with 3 mist coats of clear lacquer, I think I will leave it alone and do a final wet coat on Monday as the base coat is not reacting with the lacquer.

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Thanks for looking.

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Justin, NEVER spray a laquer OVER an enamel. it WILL ruin the paint. You CAN spray ENAMEL over laquer but not vise versa. It has to do with chemicals in the paints not being compatable or something like that. One of the guys'll know. Guys?:lol:B)

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I have to agree with you on Round2 re-issues as far as quality is concerned. Comparing originals to the re-issues, I find the plastic is not the same guality and there is a lot more flash. But remember, these are mostly 40-50 year old molds.

Having said that, they are still very buildable models and, without them, we would be paying exhorbitant prices for the old "Collector" kits of the same thing. Your Mustang is proving that Round2 models are just what the hobby needs to stay alive. I hope they keep re-issuing more of the "Oldies".

And I agree with Matt about the grille!

Tony

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Thanks for the comments guys.

I also find the plastic too hard and brittle compared to Revell, but I guess you get what you pay for.

The body is also painted with Testors enamel, I'm hoping the 3 clear mist coats will create enough of a barrier to allow a final wet coat.

I will try on Sunday or Monday and post my results.

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Guest Sickfish

Justin you've done a great job on the 'Stang  The guys are right though, lacquer over enamel is a no no... The Lacquer is "too" hot & re-acts with the cooler enamel. It doesn't matter how many mist coats/full coats of the enamel you lay down, the outcome will be the same  So either use enamel for the clear coats or lacquer for the colour too 

Cheers Cliffo 

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I like where you're going with this so far. The mesh grill is a great touch. Here are a couple other ideas that will make this build stand out.

1) Modelhaus sells the rear tail panel with separate, clear red tail lights. AMT originally made the kit this way, but subsequent issues were changed so that the tail lights were molded in & would need to be painted.

2) Modify or replace the kit's headlights. There are any number of tutorials on how to create more realistic headlights, assuming you don't already know how.

I look forward to seeing your progress on this build. Post more pics when you can.

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What do you guys think of using Future as a barrier coat between the enamel and lacquer. I applied it to the body last night, I figure I can always remove it and try an acrylic clear. The hood has been stripped and re-painted.

Chassis & Interior are WIP

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Wheels turned out ok, on the tree they looked pretty bad.

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B) Very nice I am an old Mustang fan I am 58 and have had 8 thrugh the years in fact I am doing a 67 GT convertible I hope to have done by July this year it goes to the body shop in 5 weeks.I did not see any pics of the back.AMT filled in the tail panal and you have to paint the lights in.Missing Link Resin makes the org/tail pannal with the opening for the lights and he gives you the red plastic lights so it looks like the org.I got a couple of sets there nice.Thanks Rick.
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Thanks for the part recommendations, I was not able to find pictures of the tail lights on the Modelhaus or Missing Ling web site; of someone could post a pic that would be great.

Using Future as a barrier coat worked out great, I brushed a thin coat of Future directly on the Testors enamel with the repainted hood, and also applied a thin coat of Future on the body over the 3 mist coats of clear lacquer. I will apply a second wet coat of clear tomorrow night.

Pics of first wet coat lacquer over future barrier coat.

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Edited by Iron Fist
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Quick update. Second and final clear wet coat (Did it last night)

No wet sanding, polishing or waxing. I think I will post a quick tip in the tutorial section on using Future as a barrier coat for lacquer on enamel, the results are fantastic.

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Thanks for looking and the compliments.

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