Photography questions

[lowriderphil]

One of my biggest problems in model building is taking good pictures. I own a Kodak easyshare C613 6 mega pixle camera, 3x optical zoom. I have made a decent photo booth and have a good lighting source and tripod, my biggest issue is full picture focus. Here's and example of what I mean,

It looks good in the front half of the photo but the back half blurs out, what do I need to do to solve this issue?

Thanks for any help,

Phil

[Gregg]

Unfortunately, your camera is the limiting factor.

There are no controls that will let you set a decent depth of field.

There is a macro function, but there is no AV, TV, or Manual mode.

You really need a camera that lets you set the aperture, or better yet, a manual settings function.

AV mode works well, especially since you have the photo light set up.

Maybe look for another camera, maybe on Craigslist, or Amazon?

I love the Canon brands myself, any of them that has the AV, TV, or M settings on the dial, usually on top.

Sometimes you can cheat the point-and-shoot cameras by standing back and zooming in a little bit to open up the F-Stop on the zoom settings for the camera, but then you risk getting the model out of focus also.

You can also try and play around with the macro setting, focusing on the center of the door.

I do like the lighting on the model, that's a good start.

[Jantrix]

I have an EasyShare that is only 5 megapix, so probably a little older than yours. Are you using the macro function? You didn't mention that in your post.

[lowriderphil]

That pic was taken in macro mode with the white balance set to auto

[Crazy Ed]

Hi Phil, nice Chevy btw

You might want to try adjusting the ISO setting. Hopefully the F-Stop will drop instead of shutter speed. What you're shooting for is the largest F-Stop number you can get. The other option is move the Camera back and crop the image. One or the other should get you the depth of field you're looking for.

Crazy Ed

[sjordan2]

I do what Crazy Ed suggested, and it works fine for me. Depending on how your camera works, you can shoot the picture wider so the car is smaller in the frame. Then crop in tighter on that image using a photo editing tool.

Edited September 27, 2011 by sjordan2

[Harry P.]

Agreed on backing away a bit. The closer to the subject you are, the less depth of field you get. It's just how lenses work, there's no way around it, no matter what camera you have. So just back away from the subject (shoot from about 2 feet away, do NOT use the macro setting, that's for close-up shots), then just crop out the background in the finished shot so the car fills the frame more.

[MikeMc]

LIGHT .....Lots of light, try to focus in the middle of the picture....( deep not the square)...More light, back off and drop the ASA / ISO as low as you can. This will generally let the lens open all the way ...that will increase the DOF....Depth of Field.....Focus to the middle and let the depth of FOCUS help you. Digital cameras do not have the DOF that still silver cameras had.

For example.....on the shot above....focus on the inside mirror.....(if your camera has a focus assist beam...turn the lights OFF....see where the focus beam is..remember that and use it....by focusing and not lifting the finger from the release button, most cameras lock the focus)

Also a tripod will matter with slow shutter speeds, stopping camera shake, which gives a blurred image overall

Edited September 27, 2011 by MIKE THE MANIAC

[Crazy Ed]

Digital cameras do not have the DOF that still silver cameras had.

That is true for the Pocket Cameras but DSLR's still allow for selecting mechanical f-stops and thus veriable Depth of Field.

Crazy Ed

[MikeMc]

That is true for the Pocket Cameras but DSLR's still allow for selecting mechanical f-stops and thus veriable Depth of Field.

Crazy Ed

As does the Sinar digital back for my 4x5.......we are talking Easyshare here Ed......

[charlie8575]

As a side-note, I thought only very few film cameras had adjustable depth-of-field? My Canon (FD) and Pentax (SF-10) don't, and I haven't seen any reference to that on my dad's Nikon N80 or any of his medium format (Mymayia DLR and 645, several pre-1950 Kodaks, a couple of Russian Leika knock-offs, and his Crown Graphic 4x5.)

I thought only the Linhof technical camera offered such a feature? If there are others, I'd like to know about them, as the DOF is something I'd like to tinker with to shoot backgrounds for my display cases.

Charlie Larkin

Edited September 28, 2011 by charlie8575

[Harry P.]

The only way to gain more depth of field on a typical SLR is to stop down the lens (make the aperture smaller), F16 or F22. Or even more if your lens allows. But of course as you stop down you're letting in less light... so you either need a longer exposure or external lighting and/or flash, depending on your situation.

[MikeMc]

As a side-note, I thought only very few film cameras had adjustable depth-of-field? My Canon (FD) and Pentax (SF-10) don't, and I haven't seen any reference to that on my dad's Nikon N80 or any of his medium format (Mymayia DLR and 645, several pre-1950 Kodaks, a couple of Russian Leika knock-offs, and his Crown Graphic 4x5.)

I thought only the Linhof technical camera offered such a feature? If there are others, I'd like to know about them, as the DOF is something I'd like to tinker with to shoot backgrounds for my display cases.

Charlie Larkin

Charlie....almost any camera that had interchangeable lenses has F Stops....(aperature) many range finder types also had fully adjustable apertures.

I have or have owned almost all manual cameras made....Leica to Deardorf to Hasselblad.....All have adjustable F stops.....

My 4x5 view goes down to f64....along with the swings and tilts....everything can be in or out of focus.....

The DOF is marked on most manual and automatic lenses....in some AF lenses....its controlled by the body

Edited September 28, 2011 by MIKE THE MANIAC

[charlie8575]

So the f-stop controls the depth of field? I did not realize that.

Looks like I'll have to do a little experimenting to see if I can get what I need.

With the high f-stop (my Canon and Pentax lenses both go to either f-22 or f-24,) and shooting outside in good light, any thoughts on shutter and film speed? I'm leaning towards 100-speed for the slower exposure, at least to experiment with, and a roll of Fuji Velvia-50 for the actual pictures I want, as that has probably the nicest color saturation of any film, print or slide; it also happens to be the slowest-speed film on the market, from what I've found, next to occasionally finding a roll of FujiColor, AgfaColor or various Kodaks in 100-speed.

Charlie Larkin

[Harry P.]

So the f-stop controls the depth of field? I did not realize that.

Looks like I'll have to do a little experimenting to see if I can get what I need.

With the high f-stop (my Canon and Pentax lenses both go to either f-22 or f-24,) and shooting outside in good light, any thoughts on shutter and film speed?

If you're shooting a still subject like a model car, shutter speed is a non-issue. You're not trying to capture a moving subject, so you don't need a fast shutter speed. As long as you are stopped down to get maximum depth of field, the shutter speed can be as long as needed to get a good exposure (I assume that either your camera has a built-in light meter or you're using a hand-held one). The film's speed is also a non-issue when you're shooting a still subject. Use whatever speed film you like and adjust your shutter speed as needed.

[charlie8575]

It'll be all stills. I want to shoot some background shots to put into my display cases.

Thanks Harry and Mike. if this weather ever brakes, I'm going to try and take advantage of the upcoming turning leaves to get some shots around where there are lots of trees.

Charlie

[Harry P.]

I assume you already know this, but obviously when shooting at slower shutter speeds you'll want to be on a tripod. Trying to hold a camera perfectly still while shooting at slow shutter speeds is almost impossible.

Slow shutter speeds = tripod.

Hey! My college photography classes are finally paying off!

[sjordan2]

I assume you already know this, but obviously when shooting at slower shutter speeds you'll want to be on a tripod. Trying to hold a camera perfectly still while shooting at slow shutter speeds is almost impossible.

Slow shutter speeds = tripod.

Hey! My college photography classes are finally paying off!

From your college days? You're still using flash powder and glass negatives? Or at least a Speed Graphic?

Edited September 29, 2011 by sjordan2

[Tony T]

As well as a tripod, I use the shutter timer...no shake just from pushing the button!

[bill w]

My first camera was a Canon Ftb 35mm. A photographer friend said if in doubt always bracket my shot, that way you have your pic of what you shoot.

Later on I got a Canon AE-1. I just recently got a Canon EOS 60D, I am totally lost, so far the best I can do is set everything to automatic point and shoot.

I have never been a fan of technology, ( I do think it's great...just wish I had a better understanding of it ). I'll have plenty too read when glue or paint

is drying. Should have gone to college!

Bill

[Harry P.]

My first camera was a Canon Ftb 35mm.

Mine too. And I still have it (but haven't used it in over 30 years!) I like digital film better... it's a lot cheaper!

[Cody60D]

Hate to brag, but I have a Bridge (Halfway between a DSLR and a P&S) which has a big lens and a small sensor for super macro work,

Canon 60D DSLR for larger work (Big pictures) for better pictures, and an old 20D DSLR for places I am afraid of taking my 60D.

Invest in a good bridge camera, as they will pay you back for many years. I recommend the Canon bridge cameras personally. Awesome super macro modes, and awesome functions

[charlie8575]

From your college days? You're still using flash powder and glass negatives? Or at least a Speed Graphic?

That looks very much like the one my dad has. Every once in a great while, if he wants something extra-dramatic in black-and-white, he'll go buy a few sheets of film and go play with it. He has a 4x5 and 6x9 back for it.

Bill Wowk- I understand and agree with you. It's one of the reasons I stick to film- I don't need a degree in computer science to use my cameras.

I have an AE-1, too, which I like, but I don't use right now because it has a terrible light-leak. I need to re-gasket the back. I'll probably send it down to KEH to have them gasket it and do a general cleaning on it next time I have a little extra money (about $120 for a full servicing.)

This is the type of pictures I can get out of my FD without trying too hard.

That is also, with a little manipulation, one of the possible backgrounds I'm considering using, as one of Flintstone's Cadillac hearses is on the "acquire" list.

Charlie Larkin

[Foxer]

So the f-stop controls the depth of field? I did not realize that.

Looks like I'll have to do a little experimenting to see if I can get what I need.

With the high f-stop (my Canon and Pentax lenses both go to either f-22 or f-24,) and shooting outside in good light, any thoughts on shutter and film speed? I'm leaning towards 100-speed for the slower exposure, at least to experiment with, and a roll of Fuji Velvia-50 for the actual pictures I want, as that has probably the nicest color saturation of any film, print or slide; it also happens to be the slowest-speed film on the market, from what I've found, next to occasionally finding a roll of FujiColor, AgfaColor or various Kodaks in 100-speed.

Charlie Larkin

Hmmm .. guess I was surprised at this since I know you're using 35mm film camera. Lower speed film will give you the same benefits in sharpness and such as any other subjects, but not necessarily needed for models. Since you/re on a tripod anyway, low is good. I haven't shot film in almost 20 years so can't comment on any specific film.

I have a Tamron 90mm closeup lens I use for models that goes down to f32 and dept-of-field is a non-problem for me now.

I did just trade up from my Nikon D80 to a D5100 body with a 16.2 MP sensor and the tail fins on a '59 Chevy almost cut my LCD screen with sharpness!!! Truthfully though, I cut everything down to 800x600 for posting so its all overdone.

As has been said, shutter speed doesn't matter much either. You WIILL be on a tripod doing a model.. that's an order! Outside you might use something as a reflector on the shaded sides just to even out the light and contrast. I've used white cardboard boxes even.

Edited September 30, 2011 by Foxer

[MikeMc]

Charlie....Do not spend $120 on your AE1.....the foam shields are on the door edges....a narrow ribbon of felt will work....use pliobond to cement it down. In the thousands of AE 1s I serviced....repairs were normally not needed...well made and well timed camera..the release magnet (MG2) was the biggest problem. When it was bad...the camera will not set the mirror tension and self trips...