larrygre Posted November 11, 2012 Posted November 11, 2012 It is not a styrene conversion of the diecast nor is it based on the 58-59 kits of years past. This is indeed an all-new tooling.
sjordan2 Posted November 11, 2012 Posted November 11, 2012 It is not a styrene conversion of the diecast nor is it based on the 58-59 kits of years past. This is indeed an all-new tooling. Nobody has disputed that in this entire thread of 11 pages (have you read it?). What's your point?
Guest Posted November 11, 2012 Posted November 11, 2012 Maybe you missed this post on page three. Based on Garry's profile shot above, this is another diecast-to-styrene kit from Revell. It's the "Route 66" Vette from a few years back.
meaneyme Posted November 12, 2012 Posted November 12, 2012 I am planning on using a P/E set for mine so I am not worried about eliminating those letters at all. I am working on one right now and so far I added the front bezels and painted the model also. All I need is to polish that clear. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Great job on the paint Cruz, may I ask what color you used?
cruz Posted November 12, 2012 Posted November 12, 2012 Thanks Kevin, that is Valspar automotive paint, Chevy Rally Red.
Greg Myers Posted November 12, 2012 Posted November 12, 2012 I think after reading all the pros and cons, the PE set is the way to go ifin you want all the flash on your build. I'm going for a shave and six tailights.
1972coronet Posted November 12, 2012 Posted November 12, 2012 I think after reading all the pros and cons, the PE set is the way to go ifin you want all the flash on your build. I'm going for a shave and six tailights. It's difficult to tell from this angle , but I wonder if --given the car's country-of-residence-- those inside laights are ambre ? I know that many countries require ambre lenses or bulbs for turn signals / hazard lights .
Chuck Kourouklis Posted November 12, 2012 Posted November 12, 2012 (edited) I can speculate that the hardtop roof will be in a subsequent issue of this kit. I can also speculate that there might a gasser-type version, but how much it might actually be changed from the stock version tooling would be a big question in my mind. TIM PS - no insider knowledge here, just guessing! TB An educated guess, I'd say Tim, based on the apparent presence of hardtop glass in some iterations of the preproduction samples... Hmm. Yeah. A gasser for the next version would be very cool. Edited November 12, 2012 by Chuck Kourouklis
Casey Posted November 12, 2012 Posted November 12, 2012 Would those of who will not to buy this kit because of the lack of a top in this version buy the kit if the next version includes only a hard top, and not a soft top?
blubaja Posted November 13, 2012 Posted November 13, 2012 Would those of who will not to buy this kit because of the lack of a top in this version buy the kit if the next version includes only a hard top, and not a soft top? Yea. Haha! I don't like buying a convertible especially, without an uptop. Kit just doesn't seem complete. I'm also waiting on Aoshima to tool up engines for the 86 before I buy them.
Guest Posted November 13, 2012 Posted November 13, 2012 Would those of who will not to buy this kit because of the lack of a top in this version buy the kit if the next version includes only a hard top, and not a soft top? Somone would then complain of the lack of a soft top or boot!
Guest Posted November 13, 2012 Posted November 13, 2012 Would those of who will not to buy this kit because of the lack of a top in this version buy the kit if the next version includes only a hard top, and not a soft top? It wouldn't matter to me whether it's the hardtop or soft top. But,since I've saw the issues with the mold lines,my interest in this kit is waning quickly. Judging by photos of the real car, it looks like Revell got the placement of the emblems on the header panel wrong anyway. I guess they had to space the script and emblem further apart to make room for that mold line. I'm not up for having to spend another $13.99 plus $5.50 shipping for a photo etch set for this kit. Even with a photo etch set, it's going to be very tough to get the Corvette script placed and spaced apart perfectly. It can be done, but it sure isn't going to be easy.
sjordan2 Posted November 13, 2012 Posted November 13, 2012 Somone would then complain of the lack of a soft top or boot! A convertible boot on a Corvette?
Casey Posted November 13, 2012 Posted November 13, 2012 It looks like these two parts, visible in the iHobby 2011 pics, are no longer included in the kit? One appears to be an anti-sway bar and the other a round...custom air cleaner, maybe?: I assume the hardtop's rear and side glass piece (blue arrow) is not included, either?
Chuck Kourouklis Posted November 13, 2012 Posted November 13, 2012 Hardtop glass is definitely out. The others - hmm, interesting...
Guest Posted November 13, 2012 Posted November 13, 2012 A convertible boot on a Corvette? A generic comment Skip about ragtop kits in general.
7000in5th Posted November 13, 2012 Posted November 13, 2012 How many of you road race fans knew that a Corvette was entered in the 1962 Le Mans 24 Hour race? It was news to me when I ran across a picture in my "Le Mans" two book set back in '06: I have shot the restored car and collected lots of pix from 1962 HERE. An interesting and little known car but too far down my list of projects. If you decide to build one, be sure to post pix.
Casey Posted November 14, 2012 Posted November 14, 2012 are there empty spots on the tree ? Unless Erik cut the anti-sway bar off all the way to the runner, I think so: Same with the part between the gear carrier and timing cover:
tim boyd Posted November 17, 2012 Posted November 17, 2012 (edited) Yesterday I started working on the Revell '62 Corvette for a future Gasser project I have underway. Like many of us, I was a little put off by the location of the parting line across the front, just above the "Corvette" letters. Well, I've just changed my mind. It took less than a minute with an X-Acto knife to scrape away the parting line, without touching the Corvette lettering. This was helped in that the parting lines on this body are amongst the finest (read well-done) I've ever seen on a kit. Really guys, it was a breeze. I haven't painted the body yet, so I'll post an update later if I run into any trouble after the paint goes, at which point the reflective surface would highlight any residual issues with the parting lines. Just goes to show (once again), you can't really judge a kit appropriately until you build it. Best regards...TIM Edited November 17, 2012 by tim boyd
Guest Posted November 17, 2012 Posted November 17, 2012 Just as I suspected, it would not be that big a issue. Thanks Tim.
martinfan5 Posted November 17, 2012 Posted November 17, 2012 Lesson learned , never listen to a bunch of people on a forum, make up your own mind for things, in this case, model kits
Casey Posted November 18, 2012 Posted November 18, 2012 I'd be interested to see or hear (Mike?) if other kits produced at a later date than Erik or Craig's (and I think this is where the laser date thing might come in handy) have the same body mold misalignment issue or not. Like many of us, I was a little put off by the location of the parting line across the front, just above the "Corvette" letters. Well, I've just changed my mind. It took less than a minute with an X-Acto knife to scrape away the parting line, without touching the Corvette lettering. This was helped in that the parting lines on this body are amongst the finest (read well-done) I've ever seen on a kit. Tim, was the nose parting line in your kit the same as shown on Erik's kit below, or were both "sides" even, without one side higher then the other, as seen on Erik's kit's body?:
tim boyd Posted November 19, 2012 Posted November 19, 2012 (edited) Casey...this is the third time I've tried to respond to your note....\\\\\\\\\\\ Let's see if I can make it stick this time. I don't recall the mold parting oine being as exagerated as the one in your photo. It was even all the way across., and very, very light in totality. I bought my kit the first day it officially went on sale. I had to have the guys at Nankin Mills Hobby go back in the storeroom to fish it out - it wasn't even on the shelves yet. So presumably it would be relatively early in the kit's production run. Best regards and again, sorry for the delay in responding, I tired first yesterday just after you posted. TIM Edited November 19, 2012 by tim boyd
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