MrObsessive Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 On 3/3/2018 at 8:57 PM, Watertown said: The ’69 kit, as mentioned, is simplified, but produces a nice end result. One caution, however, avoid the molded-in-orange version if you can, as that kit can pose some paint opacity issues. This......... My go-to source for all source for all potential bleed through problems when painting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordf-100 Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 14 hours ago, MrObsessive said: This......... My go-to source for all source for all potential bleed through problems when painting This is going to sound like a dumb question but how are you using this? I'm guessing spraying through an airbrush? What are you using for thinner and does any top coat have any effects on it? I never heard of any one using this and I am really curious because if I had a red plastic body it just became a red painted car! I have heard of people using silver as a basecoat but it didnt seem to work to well for me. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, fordf-100 said: This is going to sound like a dumb question but how are you using this? I'm guessing spraying through an airbrush? What are you using for thinner and does any top coat have any effects on it? I never heard of any one using this and I am really curious because if I had a red plastic body it just became a red painted car! I have heard of people using silver as a basecoat but it didnt seem to work to well for me. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks! For a lively discussion on "red bleed," see this: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/114755-mythbuster-red-bleed Edited October 19, 2018 by Snake45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordf-100 Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Snake45 said: For a lively discussion on "red bleed," see this: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/114755-mythbuster-red-bleed Thanks for the tip! I like the BIN sealer tip. I think I'm going to give it a try the next time I do a red car!! Edited October 19, 2018 by fordf-100 Misspelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, fordf-100 said: This is going to sound like a dumb question but how are you using this? I'm guessing spraying through an airbrush? What are you using for thinner and does any top coat have any effects on it? I never heard of any one using this and I am really curious because if I had a red plastic body it just became a red painted car! I have heard of people using silver as a basecoat but it didnt seem to work to well for me. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks! Yes, I use an airbrush to put this on. It comes in a spray can, but I don't like it as it comes out waaay too heavy and to me it's just not user friendly. The trick is to put on a very light coat of primer, put on the sealer, then more coats of primer and your color coats. As far as thinner, you can use 91% alcohol but right out of the can, I haven't needed to do that. I use an old Badger Crescendo to put on the BIN. I like using this as not only a barrier for that temperamental red and yellow plastic, but since I can do a lot of body work at times, it's nice to also be able to seal the putty and such as that can react to different paints. Never had a problem with it and here's a car that I did which I used the BIN, but I was very wary of the plastic as there were MANY complaints about even mild paints causing the plastic to craze. I've tried the painting it silver trick in the past, but I later had a problem with the paint chipping in spots as the silver paint didn't seem to allow the overlaying paint to have much 'bite'. If it works for some though, I have no issue with it........I've just had trouble with it. Also, you once again have to be careful what you're spraying the silver on. Since about the mid '00's or so, the plastics in kits has changed a LOT. It's now softer than ever and doesn't seem to react well with the hotter paints that you'll need to use if you're trying to match exact 1:1 colors for your model. I don't like to tempt fate as painting the body is usually the last thing I do when I have a WIP. I want to make sure everything fits with no drama and to have all that work ruined by crazed plastic due to paint does not make for a good day! Edited October 19, 2018 by MrObsessive Added Pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordf-100 Posted October 20, 2018 Share Posted October 20, 2018 Thanks for the info! I think I am going to give it a try, so this also works to prevent crazing and sealing body work? I dont usually do a ton of putty work but when I do it would be nice to know its "protected" I just recently painted an AMT Ford truck a metallic grey and although I wouldnt call it heavy crazing it seems that it lightly crazed and made the metallic not even. Anyway, thanks and that is a beautiful model! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted October 20, 2018 Share Posted October 20, 2018 1 hour ago, fordf-100 said: Thanks for the info! I think I am going to give it a try, so this also works to prevent crazing and sealing body work? Yup! Sure does! Besides stopping the bleed through, it will seal the plastic as far as not letting the hot solvents in the paint get through the plastic and cause the crazing. As I mentioned earlier, today's plastic is not as tough as it was 15-20 years ago. It's been reformulated (read: cheaper to manufacture) and at the same time unless you want to stick to the very basic enamel paints for body colors, that'll be as far as it goes into painting the bodies with actual 1:1 paints. I remember years ago this was a VERY big issue on the Hobby Heaven board (now Spotlight) where guys were SCREAMING about the crazing issues with the then new kit of the C6 Corvette and the 2005 Mustang. It was addressed to Revell and Revell later responded that they could not duplicate the problem that many were having. I can just about guarantee they were not using automotive paints, but the regular hobby enamels and while that might be OK for some, if you want the realistic colors that the cars on the road have, you have to use the hotter paints. What they weren't telling us is that the plastic had indeed changed as I was building kits that were molded in the '90's and I didn't have this issue. Just regular airbrushed Plastikote primer and automotive paint mixed by my local paint shop. Here's another good example of a model I did that was painted in the way I just described................ This Daytona was built back in 2000, and the kit I think came out around 1997-98. It was painted in the way I described----no sealer, no barrier coat, just primer and airbrushed automotive Hemi Orange. You'll see there is no crazing and interestingly enough, this is one of the few metallic paint jobs I was able to rub out and polish with no mottling of the metallic flakes. I had no idea this was a metallic paint till I got it as it's very, very subtle. I wouldn't do this today with this kit if it were molded presently. I just don't like to take chances with paint jobs and I want to be able to get it right the first time as I HATE stripping paint and starting over! This is where it's also VERY important especially today to test your paint out. Hidden areas of the body (under the hood for instance) or plastic spoons is good, but those plastic spoons I think are still a tougher plastic than what the kits are today. HTH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordf-100 Posted October 20, 2018 Share Posted October 20, 2018 I agree the plastics have changed....for the worse. The older kit plastic seemed much better and even looked better. I also think the molds and molding process have changed alot over the years. I work in manufacturing and have a little expeirence with molds....very little, but generally less quality is put in the mold itself and with some of the older molds in the 60's and 70's most likely had a lot of hand finishing. Now its more "machine" finished and I'm sure that mold release agents have changed along with as you said different and cheaper plastics. All this adds up to different issues in paint and prep. I have had no problems at all on some kits and I'll do the same thing on another kit and have horrible results and thats with kits from the same manufacturer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Hamilton Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 On 3/1/2012 at 9:40 PM, Casey said: You could always pick up the reissued 1/25 AMT/Model King '69 GTO Judge Funny Car kit and use the stock body as a starting point for a 1/25 scale '69 and '68 GTO. I plan to do a 69 GTO from this kit. I have a resin 69 GTO interior, and a bunch of cheap 72 GTO kits for everything else. The hardest part will be removing the hood, but I have done that before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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