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Posted (edited)

Just like a decal Harry, the vinal "sticker" wont set the adhesive untill the water is evaporated...so you have a short window to move it around and place it.

On a side note, what brand and model of plotter do you have Mark?

I would like to get one for airbrush work. But all I get from the sign shops is info on big industrial models.

Great looking wheels and tires, even for the age that chrome SHINES !!!

Edited by moparmagiclives
Posted

Just like a decal Harry, the vinal "sticker" wont set the adhesive untill the water is evaporated...

Oh, ok... I get it.

I was wondering how he could possibly apply a sticker dry, in a perfect circle. Now I know how... B):D

Posted

This is my favorite C3 Corvette of all time (the '78 pace car) and you're definitely doing this justice, even building box stock. Great work man!

Posted

Oh, ok... I get it.

I was wondering how he could possibly apply a sticker dry, in a perfect circle. Now I know how... B):D

Actually Harry, there is an easy way to apply then dry too, but floating is even easier.

Posted

Mark, dumb question, well I have a few, but only asking one, what scale is this kit? I dont recall seeing it posted, but I might of missed if it was

Posted

Fantastic Mark, you're a real craftsman...

I've tried to build this kit at least four times in the past and I never could figure out the interior color as the 1:1 car is very metallic. You have done a great job replicating it. My questions to you are, what types of paints do you use? obviously you use a mixture of paints, but what paint do you prefer. And what type of detail brushes do you use?

Thanks,

Matt

Posted

The silver leather on the interior is Tamiya Bare Metal Silver (Lacquer) and the carpet is a color I mixed from Tamiya Flat Aluminum and Japanese Gray(Acrylics).

The body is all Tamiya Lacquers.

I use Windsor Newton Sable Blend brushes.

It is the big eighth scale one.

The black has been applied and the masking worked well enough...

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Posted

The black has been applied and the masking worked well enough...

Well enough he says..... that's a pretty crisp parting line Mark, if I do say so myself. Fantastic work.

Posted

I built that kit back when it was new. I built it in black with a red interior. Let me just say that it could use a freshening...I now remember the orange plastic.

The body looks great in pictures, Mark. You sure are doing this kit justice!

Posted

This is a great build. I will have to look for one on eBay.

Please tell me what your technique is for texturing the engine parts.

Thanks for sharing this build.

Joe.

Posted

This is a great build. I will have to look for one on eBay.

Please tell me what your technique is for texturing the engine parts.

Thanks for sharing this build.

Joe.

From post # 41: I use talc (baby powder) for the texturing. I add it to the paint and spray. The more talc, the coarser the texture. And it makes the shop smell lilac fresh... with just a hint of lacquer.

Posted

The decals from the kit did include the hood spears, but they were done in halves, and the first half disintegrated as soon as I put it in water. Not a big problem and the silver didn’t really match the paint I used on the body. So I made new ones using the same silver paint as I used on the lower portion of the body. I painted some decal paper silver then printed the red pin striping and a black perimeter and used a black Sharpie around the edge.

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Posted

The decals from the kit did include the hood spears, but they were done in halves, and the first half disintegrated as soon as I put it in water. Not a big problem and the silver didn’t really match the paint I used on the body. So I made ne.......

No, no problem at all !!! Lol

Great save on the hood. Really keeps it all flowing.

Posted

Mark, is the stripe on the body paint or decal? either way, how did you do it?

The red pinstripe is thin vinyl I cut to match the masking of the silver/black paint line. Same material I used on the rims for the red rings. I cut the body stripe and the masking from the same pattern so they would match.

I also made a pair of license plates. I used the same art I made for the 1/24 scale production decal sheet in the last Pace Corvette re-release and enlarged them to fit.

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Posted

The firewall and master cylinder are done, very plain and not much detail compared to more modern kits. But a few shades of black helps a little…

DSC09974.jpg

Posted

The door decals were as fragile as the hood ones. I clear coated them last week to hopefully make them useable, but they were still too brittle and the first one I tried to apply broke up. (Also the red in the lettering was way too dark.) So I made new decals for the doors, (I already had the art on hand, just needed to resize it). At least I was able to use the smaller Limited Edition and Indy logos from the kit.

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Posted

When you re-made the decals, did you use white decal paper (and painstakingly cut them out) or an ALPS printer for the white outlines?

Posted

From post # 41: I use talc (baby powder) for the texturing. I add it to the paint and spray. The more talc, the coarser the texture. And it makes the shop smell lilac fresh... with just a hint of lacquer.

Thanks Monty, I will give it a try.

joe.

Posted

Mark,the work you do is just phenomenal!!,you stated in the beginning of this thread you are doing "Out Of The Box" build and it just goes to show that a model can show of nicely with just paying attention to prep and various paint work and this is proof,.....can just imagine if you were to do your "Scale-Master" high detail talent to this Vette.....either way you build it,its still going to be a work of art!

Posted

Slow going with the wait for paint to dry and some fit issues.

The body is mostly done and the interior and firewall have been installed into it. I didn’t like the way the hood pinstriping looked, so I redid it with the same vinyl material I used for the pinstripe on the body.

The glass fits very poorly (especially the windshield) and took a lot of work (and glue) to fill the gap between the clear and the body.

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