Danno Posted September 23, 2012 Posted September 23, 2012 Terry... why does your toe diagram have the steering wheel on the wrong side??? The illustration is looking up at the chassis from below, in the oil pit! Sheesh! We gotta explain everything to you???
hooterville75 Posted September 25, 2012 Posted September 25, 2012 Does anyone know if they make the leveling squares in a bigger length that you could square both tires of the same side with one square without having to turn the rules with squares on around to the other side ? That would be superb.
southpier Posted September 25, 2012 Posted September 25, 2012 if the track is equal, that would work. but if the front & rear are dissimilar it would not. you would need a 'four-square' wheel arrangement.
hooterville75 Posted September 26, 2012 Posted September 26, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the answer Southpier. I never thought about vehicles having a different wheelbase in the front verses the back, I was assuming each had the same lol. I asked the question a bit premature lol. Thanks again man, Much appreciated my friend. Edited September 26, 2012 by hooterville75
Ace-Garageguy Posted September 26, 2012 Posted September 26, 2012 .....................vehicles having a different wheelbase in the front verses the back...... Just an FYI......correct use of terms can help to aviod confusion. Many many people make the same mistake. Here are simple definitions: WHEELBASE means the distance between the centers of the front and rear wheels, as viewed from the side. TRACK or TRACK WIDTH means the distance between the centers of the wheels on one end of the car, as viewed from above.
Draggon Posted September 26, 2012 Posted September 26, 2012 Does anyone know if they make the leveling squares in a bigger length that you could square both tires of the same side with one square without having to turn the rules with squares on around to the other side ? That would be superb. Soft Jaws for a vise would work if the track is same front and rear.
Chas SCR Posted September 27, 2012 Posted September 27, 2012 Also remember if you do Nascar stuff of any thing new'er then 2002 till now this will not help you set your front tires up right. Inless you are wanting people to think your car is at speed and racing at the time you have to change the way the front tires sit as a car does not sit down on the bump stops as if it is going into the turn or down the straightaway. The top of the tires will be bow out as if the upper A arms are broken and the front will need to be lifted on a rake more the the rear. When they set the toe in they do what is called a tie down and set ever thing as if the car is at speed they will be toe out and the top bow'ed out when the car has not force on the front end.
fiatboy Posted November 27, 2024 Posted November 27, 2024 I got a peice of steel plate from a local scrap yard. About 1/4 inch thick. Then use those strong magnets. I also once used cork tiles, with little stick pins.
NOBLNG Posted November 27, 2024 Posted November 27, 2024 Wow, this is an oldy….but good trick. I do pretty much what Dr. Cranky did, but I use two pieces of 1”x1”x3/16” angle iron. I use washers as spacers to allow for different track widths, or if the wheels don’t protrude beyond the floor pan. I square everything up with the lines on my cutting matt so the model doesn’t wind up doing a crab walk.
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